What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Walchit]

Truck Norris has a 107 LSA. You got lope/chop in the bag.

There are a couple videos of trucks with stock exhaust and a truck norris and they sound pretty good. I'm hoping that low end torque is noticable though.
I should have probably just put it back stock, but after all of this work the wife wasn't that hard to talk into a cam, lol

 

[Tonyrodz]

There are a couple videos of trucks with stock exhaust and a truck norris and they sound pretty good. I'm hoping that low end torque is noticable though.
I should have probably just put it back stock, but after all of this work the wife wasn't that hard to talk into a cam, lol

I don't remember--are you beefing up your trans? If not, you should, also maybe think about a stall tc too. Might be time to start your build thread!

 

[Walchit]

I don't remember--are you beefing up your trans? If not, you should, also maybe think about a stall tc too. Might be time to start your build thread!

I thought about buying another trans and just waiting for this one to blow up. I should probably pull it out and do something to it. I don't plan on beating on it, just figured if I was gonna buy a new cam it might as well not be a stock one.
They say you don't need a stall with this cam, that's one of the main things that steered me towards it.

 

[Tonyrodz]

I thought about buying another trans and just waiting for this one to blow up. I should probably pull it out and do something to it. I don't plan on beating on it, just figured if I was gonna buy a new cam it might as well not be a stock one.
They say you don't need a stall with this cam, that's one of the main things that steered me towards it.

Yeah, I said the same thing, til I ran into an annoying Acura that kept messing with me lol. I beat him, but when I slowed down, then stepped on the gas to speed up I had nothing lol. Blew the trans.....

 

[iamdub]

There are a couple videos of trucks with stock exhaust and a truck norris and they sound pretty good. I'm hoping that low end torque is noticable though.
I should have probably just put it back stock, but after all of this work the wife wasn't that hard to talk into a cam, lol

Don't forget the supporting mods! There are plenty of "while you're there" mods. My AFM delete was gonna be 100% stock. I was gonna use an L33 cam, which has the exact same specs as the stock AFM cam, just without the AFM lobes. So, no tuning would be needed, saving me $400+.

Buuuuut, a friend made me a hell of a deal on a TSP Stage2 not long after I began my teardown. This lead to mild head work, thinner head gaskets, custom push rods, headers, a torque converter, and, of course, a custom tune.

I highly recommend a ~2800 torque converter with that cam and would recommend Circle D. They might actually recommend a different stall speed for your setup, though.

If you can swing running mid- or high-octane fuel, I'd strongly advise you shave the heads a little (they should be professionally cleaned and checked, anyway) to get the SCR to around 10.5.

 

[AlejandroDinero]

Getting Ready For Tomorrow’s Install Of Kryptonite Sleeves

 

[Walchit]

Don't forget the supporting mods! There are plenty of "while you're there" mods. My AFM delete was gonna be 100% stock. I was gonna use an L33 cam, which has the exact same specs as the stock AFM cam, just without the AFM lobes. So, no tuning would be needed, saving me $400+.

Buuuuut, a friend made me a hell of a deal on a TSP Stage2 not long after I began my teardown. This lead to mild head work, thinner head gaskets, custom push rods, headers, a torque converter, and, of course, a custom tune.

I highly recommend a ~2800 torque converter with that cam and would recommend Circle D. They might actually recommend a different stall speed for your setup, though.

If you can swing running mid- or high-octane fuel, I'd strongly advise you shave the heads a little (they should be professionally cleaned and checked, anyway) to get the SCR to around 10.5.

I was supposed to just be cleaning this up and putting in new bearings, lol

Those circle d converters looked pretty pricey

 

[Tonyrodz]

I was supposed to just be cleaning this up and putting in new bearings, lol

That's how it starts lol.......

 

[iamdub]

I was supposed to just be cleaning this up and putting in new bearings, lol\

Yeah, and I was supposed to just be swapping a stock cam for another stock cam. Rough figures were about $800 for complete AFM delete (cam, lifters, all gaskets, etc.). I easily tripled that when it was all said and done. #scopecreep

I never intended to invest this into a 200K-mile 5.3 when I wanted a 6.0 or 6.2. It's justified to me in that I can easily sell off or use most of the extras elsewhere. So, you might factor this into your plans.

Those circle d converters looked pretty pricey

At the time (early-mid 2020), the converter I got wasn't all that bad. I think they went up $100 not long after. The usual cheap go-to is a converter for a Trailblazer 4.2 I-6. It stalls to 2600 behind a 5.3. But, it might have some annoying downsides, such as feeling too loose when idling in gear. I looked at aftermarket reman'ed TB converters, but didn't feel safe not knowing the quality of the rebuild or the of the materials used. For not much more, I got the one from CircleD. After tuning, it seems to feel almost like stock. The difference in part-throttle characteristics are noticeable, but not "bad". It didn't take long at all to get used to. Idling in gear, it'll move almost like stock. I've towed a small loaded utility trailer (1,100lbs.) from Tampa, FL to West Baton Rouge, LA and a compact 4-door car on a dolly over 100 miles including city traffic and long bridge inclines with my setup. Had excellent results in power response, MPG and trans temps. You get what you pay for. In normal driving, you might feel the sub-2000 RPM loss in power from that cam. It all really depends on how you drive and what you want out of it.

 

[Walchit]

Yeah, and I was supposed to just be swapping a stock cam for another stock cam. Rough figures were about $800 for complete AFM delete (cam, lifters, all gaskets, etc.). I easily tripled that when it was all said and done. #scopecreep

I never intended to invest this into a 200K-mile 5.3 when I wanted a 6.0 or 6.2. It's justified to me in that I can easily sell off or use most of the extras elsewhere. So, you might factor this into your plans.




At the time (early-mid 2020), the converter I got wasn't all that bad. I think they went up $100 not long after. The usual cheap go-to is a converter for a Trailblazer 4.2 I-6. It stalls to 2600 behind a 5.3. But, it might have some annoying downsides, such as feeling too loose when idling in gear. I looked at aftermarket reman'ed TB converters, but didn't feel safe not knowing the quality of the rebuild or the of the materials used. For not much more, I got the one from CircleD. After tuning, it seems to feel almost like stock. The difference in part-throttle characteristics are noticeable, but not "bad". It didn't take long at all to get used to. Idling in gear, it'll move almost like stock. I've towed a small loaded utility trailer (1,100lbs.) from Tampa, FL to West Baton Rouge, LA and a compact 4-door car on a dolly over 100 miles including city traffic and long bridge inclines with my setup. Had excellent results in power response, MPG and trans temps. You get what you pay for. In normal driving, you might feel the sub-2000 RPM loss in power from that cam. It all really depends on how you drive and what you want out of it.

I guess I should do some stall converter research, but I just know I'm getting close to the top of the budget, and I'm sure other things are gonna come up when I start pulling the engine. I should probably buy motor mounts while it's out, lol