What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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iamdub

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Finally took out all the rusting original brake lines. New SS ones went in. What a sh**ty job that was. Rust and brake fluid everywhere. But got all of them in.

Bleeding everything was not going well until I saw a post from IAmDub about cycling the key on when pumping the brake to cycle the ABS solenoids. Once we did that we had the lines bled shortly thereafter.

Rear bleeder valves were fine but fronts were rusted closed. I ended up just bleeding from the end of the line where it mates to the hose. New calipers are now on my agenda, but I am mobile for the time being.

Would ya just look at that- My old ramblings were not in vain!
 

MassHoe04

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Off and on since fall, I have hopped in and turned the key only to have a no-crank/no-start.
I was fearing it might be the Passkey sensor on the ignition switch. After a couple of attempts, it would start and not happen for again some time. OK, it's winter and I really avoid driveway repairs when it is cold and miserable out. So, I put it off.

The last two times it happened, I thought maybe the door latch "open/close" sensor but be faulty. Mainly, because I seemed to get it going right after doing a couple of lock/unlock cycles with the fob. Now we are in a wet rainy weather pattern in New England, so I blew it off again thinking it still starts right up after a couple of hits on the locks.

Until yesterday... Family hops in to head home after celebrating mom's 90th birthday. NOTHING!

Tried the lock/unlock. No luck. Battery is an HD Optima and less than 2 years old. All other systems had power.

I was able to use my Tech 2 to check a few things. Battery voltage was good. The cool thing was being able to get into the menu and actually watch what the ignition switch was telling the computer... I could see the status on the ignition move from Off to Run to Crank. OK - Ignition and passkey probably not my issue. I also was able to see the transmission reporting back on its status while moving from P to 1 and back. Park/Neutral sensor was not my issue.

A few whacks on the starter did not do anything. No clicks, nothing. Based on the other information, I still felt reasonably sure my starter might be the problem.

Towed home. New starter from O'Reilly's. BOOM! Fires right up and does it consistently.

I think having the Tech 2 did help guide me in a diagnosis that seems to be correct.

Here is my starter with unknown time and mileage on it. Might be factory original. It was pretty crusty. Cleaning the terminals on the solenoid may have gotten me started, but why take chances?
20220410_084529.jpg

Don't hate because I went aftermarket, instead of GM original... It was after 4 and NAPA was closed.
20220410_084509.jpg
 

Tonyrodz

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Off and on since fall, I have hopped in and turned the key only to have a no-crank/no-start.
I was fearing it might be the Passkey sensor on the ignition switch. After a couple of attempts, it would start and not happen for again some time. OK, it's winter and I really avoid driveway repairs when it is cold and miserable out. So, I put it off.

The last two times it happened, I thought maybe the door latch "open/close" sensor but be faulty. Mainly, because I seemed to get it going right after doing a couple of lock/unlock cycles with the fob. Now we are in a wet rainy weather pattern in New England, so I blew it off again thinking it still starts right up after a couple of hits on the locks.

Until yesterday... Family hops in to head home after celebrating mom's 90th birthday. NOTHING!

Tried the lock/unlock. No luck. Battery is an HD Optima and less than 2 years old. All other systems had power.

I was able to use my Tech 2 to check a few things. Battery voltage was good. The cool thing was being able to get into the menu and actually watch what the ignition switch was telling the computer... I could see the status on the ignition move from Off to Run to Crank. OK - Ignition and passkey probably not my issue. I also was able to see the transmission reporting back on its status while moving from P to 1 and back. Park/Neutral sensor was not my issue.

A few whacks on the starter did not do anything. No clicks, nothing. Based on the other information, I still felt reasonably sure my starter might be the problem.

Towed home. New starter from O'Reilly's. BOOM! Fires right up and does it consistently.

I think having the Tech 2 did help guide me in a diagnosis that seems to be correct.

Here is my starter with unknown time and mileage on it. Might be factory original. It was pretty crusty. Cleaning the terminals on the solenoid may have gotten me started, but why take chances?
View attachment 367646

Don't hate because I went aftermarket, instead of GM original... It was after 4 and NAPA was closed.
View attachment 367645
How much was it? I have a commercial acct at Advance and I paid over $90 with a core.
 

mountie

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I had a similar / but not 'your' similar problem. My Yukon in my garage. With no previous issue, turning the key..... "click"...... I tried again, but looking at the dome lights, they did not dim, headlights did not dim. Bad starter. Starter was $204.00 ( new ).
 
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Tonyrodz

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$90?! Bend me over...

I could have gotten reman for $199 + $40 core + tax or new for $218 + $10 core + tax...
I figured I'd just get the new.
Guess I didn't do so bad then. It was the 1st time I had to buy a starter for this platform. I was used to the old Chevy starter prices, like $35 lol. A few months later I had to buy another starter for the Tahoe. Gets expensive.
 

iamdub

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Off and on since fall, I have hopped in and turned the key only to have a no-crank/no-start.
I was fearing it might be the Passkey sensor on the ignition switch. After a couple of attempts, it would start and not happen for again some time. OK, it's winter and I really avoid driveway repairs when it is cold and miserable out. So, I put it off.

The last two times it happened, I thought maybe the door latch "open/close" sensor but be faulty. Mainly, because I seemed to get it going right after doing a couple of lock/unlock cycles with the fob. Now we are in a wet rainy weather pattern in New England, so I blew it off again thinking it still starts right up after a couple of hits on the locks.

Until yesterday... Family hops in to head home after celebrating mom's 90th birthday. NOTHING!

Tried the lock/unlock. No luck. Battery is an HD Optima and less than 2 years old. All other systems had power.

I was able to use my Tech 2 to check a few things. Battery voltage was good. The cool thing was being able to get into the menu and actually watch what the ignition switch was telling the computer... I could see the status on the ignition move from Off to Run to Crank. OK - Ignition and passkey probably not my issue. I also was able to see the transmission reporting back on its status while moving from P to 1 and back. Park/Neutral sensor was not my issue.

A few whacks on the starter did not do anything. No clicks, nothing. Based on the other information, I still felt reasonably sure my starter might be the problem.

Towed home. New starter from O'Reilly's. BOOM! Fires right up and does it consistently.

I think having the Tech 2 did help guide me in a diagnosis that seems to be correct.

Here is my starter with unknown time and mileage on it. Might be factory original. It was pretty crusty. Cleaning the terminals on the solenoid may have gotten me started, but why take chances?
View attachment 367646

Don't hate because I went aftermarket, instead of GM original... It was after 4 and NAPA was closed.
View attachment 367645

If not in professional diagnostics costs and playing parts darts, that Tech2 pays for itself in frustration savings.
 

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