What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Rivieraracing

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Thanks man! Wow thats expensive for all those parts. Maybe i will just get rid of the air ride? Never seen it work that well on my truck anyway and i have the airlift 1000 bags. Hmmmm....... Maybe bilstein non-air ride rear shocks with coils from NorcalSS's 2/3 drop kit? What do i do with my compressor and air ride sensors? I think i read somewhere that i need to cap my sensors?

Yeah, not cheap but if you like how your ride feels with the OEM stuff, then this is a cheaper alternative to the dealership!! Not sure what needs to be done if you don't go with OEM fit shocks, sorry I can't help you with that!

---------- Post added at 07:04 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:03 PM ----------

I replaced it all...front, rear ,compressor and dryer rebuild At same time h

Reman or new rear shocks? Whatcha think about the whole setup, especially the fronts?

---------- Post added at 07:04 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:04 PM ----------

That is a tall order to fullfill........did you have a good time getting out the old compressor? ;)

The compressor is a good time for all, as you very well know!! lol
 

electro

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thanks. i agree.. looks much cleaner.. though the back looks kinda funny with nothing on it

How did you de mould?

Heat gun?

I'm considering do this and was going to use a heat gun and some fishing line. (maybe some spider wire or super pro :p)

Is that a good idea?




Today I greased my ball joints and my tie rods and forgot about some steering linkages. Forget which ones. Intermediate shaft and idler arm? Anyone know what i missed?

Going to go back under next weekend.

I'm also trying to fit some 315/70/17s on my '02 suburban. So while the front end was up I put one on for fun. Of course suspension was unloaded but it turned! so that was a plus.

I also dumped another can of rust check on the truck.
 
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M Hankel

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I took the roof rack off earlier last week and then spent this afternoon debadging and removing the factory side moulding.

This is how the Tahoe looked on Friday.

StockMinusRoofRack.jpg



And this is how she looks now. Got the windows tinted yesterday, plus all the activities from today. Currently trying to pick out some 22's and have decided on a 3/5 drop which will be happening within the next month if all goes well.

TintedWindowsAndDebadged.jpg
 

Garmoe

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How did you de mould?

Heat gun?

I'm considering do this and was going to use a heat gun and some fishing line. (maybe some spider wire or super pro :p)

Is that a good idea?

i just used some fishing line to get it started then just pulled it off. then just used my fingers to get the adhesive off and goo gone to fully remove it. I found it easier to remove the majority of the adhesive before using goo gone.

I took the roof rack off earlier last week and then spent this afternoon debadging and removing the factory side moulding.

This is how the Tahoe looked on Friday.

StockMinusRoofRack.jpg



And this is how she looks now. Got the windows tinted yesterday, plus all the activities from today. Currently trying to pick out some 22's and have decided on a 3/5 drop which will be happening within the next month if all goes well.

TintedWindowsAndDebadged.jpg

what did you use to fill the hole from the roof rack? I also want to take mine off but dont the holes up there making noise as i drive or to leak. and it looks good
 

M Hankel

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How did you de mould?

Heat gun?

I'm considering do this and was going to use a heat gun and some fishing line. (maybe some spider wire or super pro :p)

Is that a good idea?

Just did this today. Yeah, I used 40# fishing line and a heat gun. The last couple of body side mouldings, I just got the edge started with the fishing line, then pulled it by hand while heating slowly with the heat gun. Worked great. Also invested in that 3M Stripe Remover wheel that attaches to a drill. That thing saves a bunch of time and cursing lol.... By the time I took some Mcguires paint cleaner, then waxed everything afterward I had about 3.5 hours into it.

Mike

---------- Post added at 08:24 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:14 PM ----------

what did you use to fill the hole from the roof rack? I also want to take mine off but dont the holes up there making noise as i drive or to leak. and it looks good

Thanks, I like yours too. Turned out great.

For the holes up top, I got some M6x20 set screws from the hardware store and dabbed a bit of silicone sealer on them before screwing them in. I also got some cheap automotive moulding and then installed it on the outside edges of the little nubs left. Can't even see them anymore, well unless you're driving a semi truck looking down on it lol.... Originally I wanted to find some 3/4" or 1" wide moulding and counter sink the underside so it would lay flat over the top of the nubs, but I coudn't find any moulding thicker than 5/8". If I find some wider stuff I still might do my original plan.

Mike
 

Rivieraracing

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Towed the boat to the river again today, and then sprayed up the door hinges with some good oil!! No mo squeeky!
 

Garmoe

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Thanks, I like yours too. Turned out great.

For the holes up top, I got some M6x20 set screws from the hardware store and dabbed a bit of silicone sealer on them before screwing them in. I also got some cheap automotive moulding and then installed it on the outside edges of the little nubs left. Can't even see them anymore, well unless you're driving a semi truck looking down on it lol.... Originally I wanted to find some 3/4" or 1" wide moulding and counter sink the underside so it would lay flat over the top of the nubs, but I coudn't find any moulding thicker than 5/8". If I find some wider stuff I still might do my original plan.

Mike

thanks.. once i get it buffed it will look better since you can see where the molding was.. and thanks for the info on filling the holes up. looks like i got a project for next weekend/week sometime.
 

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