What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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mattbta

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Last week got a P0101 code that went away after two days. Well, it came back tonight along with P0171 and P0174. When I got home, took a look under the hood. My MIT was coming off the throttle body...Enough to let unmetered air in. Took it all the way off, reset the coupler and tightened it all down! Fired it up and CEL was off. Cleared the stored codes too. I suspect this might have something to do with my rough idle...LOL!

Also my battery was down to 200CCA's and low 12 volts. Warranty on my old DieHard and some haggling got me a new DieHard AGM installed for $100. Still mad I paid $20 for the install as the battery cost was $80, but I didn't have tools and had to pick my daughter up. Oh well, in and out in 15 minutes including testing the old one. Excited to see how this AGM does.
 

Tonyrodz

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Rocket Man

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Used the leftover 1/0 gauge I had from my camaros battery relocation to do the big three. Used a stinger fuse box off the battery to be safe and wrapped it all in black nylon techflex because lime greens just too much for the Denali lol

So far haven't noticed too much of a difference, but apparently the people on gmfs have noticed a 1-2 mpg increase so I'll be on the watch for that.

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@1992rs what did you use to crimp the terminals on that huge wire? Is there an inexpensive crimp tool I don't know about because all I see is $$$ ones.
 

1992rs

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@1992rs what did you use to crimp the terminals on that huge wire? Is there an inexpensive crimp tool I don't know about because all I see is $$$ ones.
Honestly, I flathead-style chisel and a hammer haha

I actually have a hydraulic crimper from harbor freight that supposedly supports 1/0 but every ring terminal I've used won't fit. It works great on 4 gauge and smaller. After a couple hits with a chisel I can fit 1/0 if I really want to mangle it, but the caveman method can hold just as tight and comes out cleaner imo.


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MrBalll

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Took out the Escalade style gauge cluster and shipped it off to have the VIN, mileage and hours corrected. Also having blue LED's put in.
 

bottomline2000

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I use these: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...=Search_N0365_1504401_2529&pt=N0365&ppt=C0005

I dont know how you have your top post mounted but you can run something like this if all you have is a top post. That way it gives you multiple spots to mount things. http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/battery-terminals/sp/bassik-positive-battery-terminal/

Or if you wanna be a baller and have both top and side posts you can go as far as this and just use the top posts for big three, amp wires, etc..
http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/battery-terminals/sp/konfused-positive-battery-terminal/

A dual post battery is really the best solution for us. I plan to buy one and use a combo of the first and third when I get a system hooked up. Side posts for oem wires, my HID's, and small accessories. Top posts for my big three and amps.
Haha, I actually already have the baller setup. I've been looking for a new interstate battery, but haven't seen one with both top and side post. I'd rather not change up my setup if I could help it but yours looks clean.

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1992rs

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Haha, I actually already have the baller setup. I've been looking for a new interstate battery, but haven't seen one with both top and side post. I'd rather not change up my setup if I could help it but yours looks clean.

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I thought I saw one on there at one time but maybe I'm wrong. If you're okay with spending optima kind of money, look at north star batteries. The one for our rigs has the highest cca and reserve capacity I've found to date, without shelling out stupid money for a lithium battery of course.


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