What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Tonyrodz]

If I do it I'll definitely be doing the 99-07 duramax package from Glowshift. 3 pods of your choice and the pillar is basically free. I'll probably do narrowband AFR, trans temp with their 4l60e stub sensor and volt or water temp.

Glowshift is nice stuff, just a little pricey.

 

[CJ Rodarme]

Glowshift is nice stuff, just a little pricey.

For my setup it'll be $200 shipped including the trans sensor. Not a bad price considering the color will match and the gauges are customizable colors

 

[Tonyrodz]

For my setup it'll be $200 shipped including the trans sensor. Not a bad price considering the color will match and the gauges are customizable colors

Actually pretty decent. That with the pillar pod too? Link?

 

[Fless]

So I had my t-case serviced last week. Since then, it’s making a really loud clunk noise, both shifting in, and out of 4lo. I don’t expect silence, but it’s definitely louder, as it was very quiet before the service was done. I know there’s not much to it. Just a drain/ fill, and I know the correct Autotrak fluid. Not sure why this would be making so much noise now. I also noticed the switch on the dash will show it’s in neutral even when it’s not on occasion. Thinking the actuator May be on the way out. Thoughts?

@Sam Harris, my NVG246 (NP8) has a very distinct (read: loud) clunk when shifting in and out of 4lo, and it's always been that way, even before the rebuild. The dash light thing happened to me maybe a year before the TC was rebuilt; I'd be going down the road and the switch would suddenly show "N" but I'm still getting power to the wheels. Pulling over and turning the key off and back on would usually correct it for a while. Replacing the encoder motor fixed that, so that would be my first guess. You could check to see if they got the bolts tight on the encoder motor.

The dash switch can be removed and ohmed; if you need that info let me know and I'll post it or reply to a PM.

 

[ArcticYukon]

So I went from 03-07 mirror connectors to 99-02 connectors. One mirror down one to go, then just run power the turn signals then make the switch for the power fold.

View attachment 222669 View attachment 222670

You wouldn't happen to have done an ac control harness conversion from a 00-02 to a 03-07?

 

[CJ Rodarme]

Actually pretty decent. That with the pillar pod too? Link?

https://www.glowshiftdirect.com/7-c...uge-package-for-2000-2006-gmc-sierra-duramax/
It says its for a duramax but we all know it fits. You can also find the color matched pillar on there that's "specifically" for a tahoe/yukon for 30 something.

 

[Sam Harris]

@Sam Harris, my NVG246 (NP8) has a very distinct (read: loud) clunk when shifting in and out of 4lo, and it's always been that way, even before the rebuild. The dash light thing happened to me maybe a year before the TC was rebuilt; I'd be going down the road and the switch would suddenly show "N" but I'm still getting power to the wheels. Pulling over and turning the key off and back on would usually correct it for a while. Replacing the encoder motor fixed that, so that would be my first guess. You could check to see if they got the bolts tight on the encoder motor.

The dash switch can be removed and ohmed; if you need that info let me know and I'll post it or reply to a PM.

Great information! Thanks very much! That’s exactly what I do when the neutral light comes on. Sounds like I need an encoder motor then, or at least check the connection. [emoji106][emoji16]

 

[Fless]

For a TC fluid change they wouldn't have necessarily done anything with the encoder motor. However, to pull the encoder motor you'll have to pull the front propeller shaft (driveshaft) out of the front diff u-joint and from the TC splined shaft.

I have a Tech 2, recently purchased, and have done a bit of testing but am not all that familiar with it. Happy to make it available to you since you're in the area.

 

[Sam Harris]

For a TC fluid change they wouldn't have necessarily done anything with the encoder motor. However, to pull the encoder motor you'll have to pull the front propeller shaft (driveshaft) out of the front diff u-joint and from the TC splined shaft.

I have a Tech 2, recently purchased, and have done a bit of testing but am not all that familiar with it. Happy to make it available to you since you're in the area.

Thanks so much! That would be great!

 

[JetBlackNali]

Finally got the time to scrub off the winter and give her a cut and polish and take off the winter boots.