What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[kbuskill]

It's been off all July/August. Haven't noticed anything above 210 on dash.

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Yeah the gauge in the dash is well documented to be inaccurate.

It is believed that GM programmed it that way on purpose so the needle sits in the center of the gauge and doesn't move alot so that soccer moms, and the like, don't think something is wrong if the temperature fluctuates.

If you look at the actual temperature readings via a scan tool it should run about 192°- 194° on average.

I just thought I would mention the possibility of cooling issues because a lot of people don't realize that the air dam serves a purpose for cooling, not just aesthetics.

 

[Rocket Man]

These arrived yesterday.

Spohn boxed rear LCAs with poly bushings. The bushings on the OEM LCAs are smoked.....so might as well upgrade. These are also lighter then the OEM stamped steel shit.

Improving and dropping weight where I can

View attachment 259772

I have those on my 02 Denali, I’m happy with them. Same thing, I was replacing the stockers as maintenance and figured why not.

 

[Sparksalot]

Looks good but keep an eye on your coolant temperature. The air dam is there to create a low pressure area behind the radiator.

I’ve removed it on thecopcar as well. I have a scangauge permanently mounted and haven’t noticed any change. Typically 197.

 

[89Suburban]

Trimmed off the clip's and the tabs of the bracket for front fascias lip. I think it look's better without it [emoji2373]. Also put my new headlights in. I need the fogs now.





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Read your post and did the same tonight. Thanks. I left the 2 sections where the brackets were as you can see. But much better looking.

 

[Rocket Man]

Read your post and did the same tonight. Thanks. I left the 2 sections where the brackets were as you can see. But much better looking.


View attachment 259826

I have that exact same work light.

 

[89Suburban]

I have that exact same work light.

That's because of you dawg. I remember asking you about yours and bought one. Thanks.

 

[Rocket Man]

That's because of you dawg. I remember asking you about yours and bought one. Thanks.

Oh, yeah. My memory ain’t what it used to be lol.

 

[iamdub]

What is the VTEC characteristic?



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Back in the day, Honda had their first iteration of a variable valve timing system, called "VTEC" (Variable Valve Timing & Lift Electronic Control). It wasn't like today's variable valve timing that has a range of adjustment. It just had two modes- low RPM and high RPM, and there was a distinct difference when it would shift from one mode to the other. Modern variable valve timing systems have a wider range of adjustment to optimize the valve events across a wide band of RPM, so any changes are undetectable.

My reference was to the original VTEC characteristic. I floor the Tahoe from idle and it climbs in RPM as it accelerates. Somewhere around 3,000 RPM, it suddenly comes alive and the RPMs climb much faster to redline, with the accompanying rush in acceleration.

I'm convinced it's Torque Management retarding the timing until around 3,000 RPM.

 

[iamdub]

Is this something that's missing normally, added later?
Guessing to control oil burning or something?

Yes. I don't think it was ever installed from the factory and was only installed if oil consumption was a problem.

 

[iamdub]

Thinking since i didn't get the torque right, i might as well pull off the pan again and add that part.

Doing more reading, it sounds like a good idea.

I'm also going to replace the pressure sensor and screen.

I flushed quite a bit of gunk from that bypass, probably a good idea for peace of mind.

If that valve was gunked up, then your AFM system would look the same on the insides. Buildup is the #1 killer of AFM components due to the tiny passages all throughout. Gotta keep clean oil in it! You also can't flush the engine with harsh chemicals since they aggressively break up the crud in larger chunks. These chunks move through the system and get lodged in the oil passages in lifters, push rods, the solenoids in the VLOM, etc. You gotta gradually dissolve the deposits over time with the detergents in quality oil.

Do you track your engine's oil consumption? Have a catch can?

By the way, the torque specs are just as you found: 18 ft. lbs on the pan bolts and 106 in lb. on the two long skinny ones at the rear. DO NOT attempt to tighten those two rear bolts to 18 ft. lbs.