What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Rocket Man]

If you have air, i have one of these
I love it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013WKCKW0

I actually have two, lost one replaced it and then recently found the other.
Dropped it one day, broke off the little muffler.
Works even better now!

Those are a PIA compared to a Motive. They’re more expensive but well worth it. Once you’ve used one you’ll never go back. Blow, don’t suck! I hate how those can suck air in. Plus you don’t have to keep topping off your MC. You can flush all your lines with all new fluid in minutes.

 

[gooffeyguy]

That is what I tried to tell Chris @iamdub but he is an OEM purist and went with a stock radiator instead... lol

Let us know in 12 years how this one is holding up

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[Just Fishing]

Those are a PIA compared to a Motive. They’re more expensive but well worth it. Once you’ve used one you’ll never go back. Blow, don’t suck! I hate how those can suck air in. Plus you don’t have to keep topping off your MC. You can flush all your lines with all new fluid in minutes.

It actually came with a little bottle to top off the fluid or something.
I never messed with it.

The one pita is that i do have to watch the fluid level at the MC.
Usually only a problem when doing a full flush until the fluid looks perfect.
For most things, i only want to pull the old fluid out of the caliper when doing things like pads and stuff.

I also use the suction tool for sucking fluids out of things.
Ranging from my power steering fluid, to pulling the windshield washer fluid out.



And that reminds me, while the hoe is in the garage i need to remove the blue washer fluid that the PO used (Freezes)!
It has a full tank of it...

 

[Just Fishing]

And while installing the valve covers yesterday.
I decided i might as well clean them up a bit.
No point to install dirty parts...

I thought for a moment about giving them a high polish, but went for a light brushed look using Fine grit 3M Crossbuffs...




Top picture you can see my AC flush tool that i used to prime the oil system...


I also replaced the oil fill tube, cap, oil level dipstick tube, and dipstick.

Went to remove the Oil Fill cap and noticed it's a one time use, lock tab breaks off!

And the dipstick would not remove for me when pulling the heads, it was a bit tweaked.
Found the local dealership had everything i needed in stock.
So i mangled the F out of the dipstick tube to get it out.


New one slid in after being well lubed.

 

[iamdub]

That is what I tried to tell Chris @iamdub but he is an OEM purist and went with a stock radiator instead... lol

Yeah. Total OEM purist here...

 

[Rocket Man]

And while installing the valve covers yesterday.
I decided i might as well clean them up a bit.
No point to install dirty parts...

I thought for a moment about giving them a high polish, but went for a light brushed look using Fine grit 3M Crossbuffs...

View attachment 266551
View attachment 266552

Top picture you can see my AC flush tool that i used to prime the oil system...


I also replaced the oil fill tube, cap, oil level dipstick tube, and dipstick.

Went to remove the Oil Fill cap and noticed it's a one time use, lock tab breaks off!

And the dipstick would not remove for me when pulling the heads, it was a bit tweaked.
Found the local dealership had everything i needed in stock.
So i mangled the F out of the dipstick tube to get it out.


New one slid in after being well lubed.

The problem with the valve covers is they’re raw aluminum so it won’t be long before they’re oxidized again and look bad. Unless you plan on removing them occasionally and re-polishing I recommend painting them with something like VHT Wrinkle Plus. I did mine 2 years ago and they still look great, it holds up to pressure washing or a scrub brush and degreaser.

 

[wjburken]

View attachment 266553 View attachment 266555
The problem with the valve covers is they’re raw aluminum so it won’t be long before they’re oxidized again and look bad. Unless you plan on removing them occasionally and re-polishing I recommend painting them with something like VHT Wrinkle Plus. I did mine 2 years ago and they still look great, it holds up to pressure washing or a scrub brush and degreaser.

So......I’m guessing that this picture will give you nightmares then.

 

[Just Fishing]

And I was able to setup my catch can the other day.
Had planned to get pictures, but the baffles were pretty tight.

Might still pull it apart once more before the final install.

However, i used a stainless scrub thingy on the bottom, baffle above that.
Then while cutting out the baffles in the sheet aluminum, i noticed my scissors were nearly cutting perfect little windmill blades.
SO i made a center baffle as a little propeller.
Idea is that the air will spin when getting sucked up to the top.
And most likely it's just going to be a center baffle that flows very well...
Then another baffle above that.

then built a little stand off in the middle and riveted the assembly together.
I thought about another baffle at the top, but lazy me just cut one of the scrubs in half and stuffed it in there.

Installed a tube all the way to the bottom, nice tight fitting in the baffles, should force it to the other side etc.

It should work fine i believe.

 

[Just Fishing]

View attachment 266553 View attachment 266555
The problem with the valve covers is they’re raw aluminum so it won’t be long before they’re oxidized again and look bad. Unless you plan on removing them occasionally and re-polishing I recommend painting them with something like VHT Wrinkle Plus. I did mine 2 years ago and they still look great, it holds up to pressure washing or a scrub brush and degreaser.

I thought about that, and it's what i wanted to do.
But it's freaking cold outside, hard to paint.

If i did the polish i would have also done some clearcoat to preserve it.

 

[iamdub]

got the intake on!

it was full of oil...
lots of oil.

made a mess when i picked it up.
Let it drain for a bit, then took it outside to the back corner of the yard with a can of gas.
Rinsed that baby out the best i could...
stunk up the garage, i think i went cross-eyed for a bit...


once oil finally stopped leaking out i cleaned it up pretty good, removed the map sensor (Doh!) and cleaned it...

Nearly ready to run this pig!

I got barbaric with mine. I first stood it up in a tray to bleed out like a hog for a few weeks while I worked elsewhere on the engine. Then, I sprayed the inside (in each port and through TB) with foaming engine degreaser and rinsed that with the high pressure nozzle on the garden hose. Repeated until the foamy water washed out white. Then, I sprayed brake cleaner everywhere inside it, shook it around from all angles to stir it, and repeated until the liquid running out was clear. Soaked it one last time with the brake cleaner and blew it dry with the compressor. Inside was sanitary. If I remember, I'll check the manifold for oil when I do my oil change in 1,000 miles. That may be a few months, though.