alpha_omega
Full Access Member
Any risk of it “spidering”? Are you thinking a right angle drill / Dremel tool, or is there be enough space for an standard drill/impact?
What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter phattyford
- Start date
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George B
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Cat v.s. Cucumber FTW.
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
As for teh hoe.
I worked long hours last night, replaced all of the mains after doing an oil flow mod to the thrust bearing...
On the thrust surface on the crank, i took some oil soaked sand paper and did some smoothing.
Did my best to do a mild cross hatch.
Started with 600 and went up to 2000 grit.
The crank is not great this go around.
And i can't get an oem replacement right now.
Best i can get is a used crank...
I also found that you cannot remove the rear main bearing with the rear cover in place.
I might be able to modify it to allow removal, but then I'm cutting into the sealing surface on the pan.
So the rear bearing is slightly tighter than the rest...
I don't think it will matter much, but i have this image of the crank sitting in there slightly crooked in my mind. lol
We are talking something like .0002 difference
Anyways i cut up my hands pretty good last night working the crank.
I'm feeling "ok" about the cranks thrust surface...
+ the extra oil flow for the thrust bearing and loosened bearing tolerance should make good use of that high flow pump.
Overall the bearings look pretty good, the worst looking ones shared the oil flow path with the bad thrust bearing...
4 more rods to go, then i can start the tightening sequence.
Yay...
I worked long hours last night, replaced all of the mains after doing an oil flow mod to the thrust bearing...
On the thrust surface on the crank, i took some oil soaked sand paper and did some smoothing.
Did my best to do a mild cross hatch.
Started with 600 and went up to 2000 grit.
The crank is not great this go around.
And i can't get an oem replacement right now.
Best i can get is a used crank...
I also found that you cannot remove the rear main bearing with the rear cover in place.
I might be able to modify it to allow removal, but then I'm cutting into the sealing surface on the pan.
So the rear bearing is slightly tighter than the rest...
I don't think it will matter much, but i have this image of the crank sitting in there slightly crooked in my mind. lol
We are talking something like .0002 difference
Anyways i cut up my hands pretty good last night working the crank.
I'm feeling "ok" about the cranks thrust surface...
+ the extra oil flow for the thrust bearing and loosened bearing tolerance should make good use of that high flow pump.
Overall the bearings look pretty good, the worst looking ones shared the oil flow path with the bad thrust bearing...
4 more rods to go, then i can start the tightening sequence.
Yay...
alpha_omega
Full Access Member
Nice work. Best of luck.
I can see you thinking about that crank being crooked all damn day until you end up taking off the rear cover and fixing it. I have ocd as well…some people just don’t understand. Ha!
I can see you thinking about that crank being crooked all damn day until you end up taking off the rear cover and fixing it. I have ocd as well…some people just don’t understand. Ha!
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
and i'm thinking about buying this, do an external filter before the oil coolers.
www.summitracing.com
at a minimum, it will give me some more locations to do a pressure check and prevent clogging up the oil coolers....
Saw someone's thread where they installed one under the front plastic skid plate.
Seems like a perfect location to me...
And it would give me a reason to break out the ol rivnut gun again...
Perma-Cool 10678 Perma-Cool Standard Automatic Transmission Filter Kits | Summit Racing
Free Shipping - Perma-Cool Standard Automatic Transmission Filter Kits with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Automatic Transmission Filters, Remote Mount at Summit Racing.
at a minimum, it will give me some more locations to do a pressure check and prevent clogging up the oil coolers....
Saw someone's thread where they installed one under the front plastic skid plate.
Seems like a perfect location to me...
And it would give me a reason to break out the ol rivnut gun again...
minority report
gooffeyguy
Tom
I installed a remote trans filter to the inside frame rail just in front of the engine under the splash shield.and i'm thinking about buying this, do an external filter before the oil coolers.
Perma-Cool 10678 Perma-Cool Standard Automatic Transmission Filter Kits | Summit Racing
Free Shipping - Perma-Cool Standard Automatic Transmission Filter Kits with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Automatic Transmission Filters, Remote Mount at Summit Racing.
at a minimum, it will give me some more locations to do a pressure check and prevent clogging up the oil coolers....
Saw someone's thread where they installed one under the front plastic skid plate.
Seems like a perfect location to me...
And it would give me a reason to break out the ol rivnut gun again...
If you plan on doing this for the engine oil on the oil cooler line you could probably mount it on drivers side near the lines.
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
That's what i'm thinking.
for the transmission, i believe the cause of my thrust bearing issue was some metal i found in my radiator transmission cooler.
Thinking if say I damaged the transmission pump, or something about the new converter...
then it's good insurance to prevent future clogs from confusing the hell out of me.
For engine oil cooler side,
From what I saw in the pan, the engine oil cooler plumbs after the filter.
Is that correct or do I need to re-review the fluid path?
08z71bgm
Supporting Member
Cannot believe you’re doing this while it’s still in the truck. Lol
