What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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iamdub

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Nice job.
Speaking of thicker core radiators, @iamdub (in his typical fashion), did a ton of research and found a thicker radiator for our trucks. I ordered one and it fit perfect. Only issue I had was that it was missing an oring behind the fitting for the upper trans line so it leaked until I figured out the problem. I can not find the part number but I'm pretty sure it was denso.

Hey Chris, did you happen to save that part number? For whatever reason, my email isn't finding that order.

Here are pics of it tho
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It came from rockauto but it wasn't listed in the "compatible" section for the avalanche. I had to search the part number. 99% sure it was denso


@Fless got ya lined out. Denso 221-9514.
 

iamdub

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Possibly. It seems like the one he ordered was different but I cant honestly remember. I took those pics for him during all this and for some reason, my email jumps from 1/24/21 to mid 2020. That pic was take 1/15/21 so I can't find the order. Chris Will remember it better than me

Edit: went through the pics I've sent him and found this. I imagine that's what I ordered...
View attachment 389343

I recall asking RA for info on this one. Summit list the specs and they say this one has a 1.33" core- slightly thicker than mine. The inlet and outlet necks sizes are tenths of an inch different, too. Does yours have the EOC?
 

pwtr02ss

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I recall asking RA for info on this one. Summit list the specs and they say this one has a 1.33" core- slightly thicker than mine. The inlet and outlet necks sizes are tenths of an inch different, too. Does yours have the EOC?
It does. IIRC, you ordered the delco, then ordered the denso but then found this one and you told me to order it. I think you found this one right after you ordered the other. That's why I sent you all of the pictures. I thought I had to search for part number but I just went to rockauto and it pulls up under "2008 avalanche" (same as it did in the picture when I ordered it).

All this being said, I've noticed zero difference in my cooling but I haven't towed or anything. Also, I never paid attention to it before, when towing, so there's that. It always stays in the middle (210). BUT, since I was buying anyway, why not get a little thicker core. Had I already bought one, I wouldn't switch (unless you're having heat issues)
 

the_tool_man

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What did I do today? I broke down. The Yukon had started making a noise that changed with engine rpm. I thought it was a serpentine idler going bad, or something similar. I'm moving this Saturday, and don't have time to mess with it. So I made an appointment for Friday morning to have it looked at.

Tonight I get in it to drive from new house (I'm renovating) to old house (where I sleep), and less than a mile down the road the engine flairs on the transmission upshift (3-4 I think). Then instead of fifth it goes into neutral, then intermittently will pull. I'm kinda in the middle of nowhere, so I want to limp it home. But it's 30 miles. So I decide to limp it to a parking lot up the road. At one point I've got it moving slowly, and the engine starts to sputter, and the check engine light comes on. I reach the parking lot, shut down, and get out the code reader. I checked the transmission fluid. It's full, but smells burned. I couldn't determine color in the dark with no rag to wipe the dipstick with. But I think it's safe to say the transmission is toast.

Who makes a good aftermarket 6L80?

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Doubeleive

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What did I do today? I broke down. The Yukon had started making a noise that changed with engine rpm. I thought it was a serpentine idler going bad, or something similar. I'm moving this Saturday, and don't have time to mess with it. So I made an appointment for Friday morning to have it looked at.

Tonight I get in it to drive from new house (I'm renovating) to old house (where I sleep), and less than a mile down the road the engine flairs on the transmission upshift (3-4 I think). Then instead of fifth it goes into neutral, then intermittently will pull. I'm kinda in the middle of nowhere, so I want to limp it home. But it's 30 miles. So I decide to limp it to a parking lot up the road. At one point I've got it moving slowly, and the engine starts to sputter, and the check engine light comes on. I reach the parking lot, shut down, and get out the code reader. I checked the transmission fluid. It's full, but smells burned. I couldn't determine color in the dark with no rag to wipe the dipstick with. But I think it's safe to say the transmission is toast.

Who makes a good aftermarket 6L80?

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if you just want to slap any remanned in there lots of places have them powertrain products, jasper and others
 

Geotrash

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What did I do today? I broke down. The Yukon had started making a noise that changed with engine rpm. I thought it was a serpentine idler going bad, or something similar. I'm moving this Saturday, and don't have time to mess with it. So I made an appointment for Friday morning to have it looked at.

Tonight I get in it to drive from new house (I'm renovating) to old house (where I sleep), and less than a mile down the road the engine flairs on the transmission upshift (3-4 I think). Then instead of fifth it goes into neutral, then intermittently will pull. I'm kinda in the middle of nowhere, so I want to limp it home. But it's 30 miles. So I decide to limp it to a parking lot up the road. At one point I've got it moving slowly, and the engine starts to sputter, and the check engine light comes on. I reach the parking lot, shut down, and get out the code reader. I checked the transmission fluid. It's full, but smells burned. I couldn't determine color in the dark with no rag to wipe the dipstick with. But I think it's safe to say the transmission is toast.

Who makes a good aftermarket 6L80?

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If you have a Tech 2 you could try the transmission valve body exercise routine.
 

the_tool_man

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If you have a Tech 2 you could try the transmission valve body exercise routine.
I think between the noise and burned fluid, I'm destined to replace it. I need to check with Black Bear to see if it will negate my tune. All my local shops use HP Tuners, not AutoCal. So if they have to do something to program it, I may have to live without a tune, which would suck.
 
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