What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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CaptainAmerica1

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Finally got around to fixing my transmission shift cable bushing at the transmission. I removed the shift lever from the transmission and drilled out the little nub that protrudes so I could insert a 1/2”x1/2” clevis pin and cotter pin to connect the transmission cable that way. Reassembled with a washer between the shift cable bushing and the shift lever, as well as a washer on the other side of the shift bushing so as not to interfere with cotter pin and shift bushing. Seems to have worked well.
 
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Just Fishing

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Hooray for cruise control throttle on the Echo Blower! :anitoof:

View attachment 350087View attachment 350088


I did that trick to cool my air compressor while the rings seated.
temps were getting up to 300f, so i bungee corded my leaf blower so it would blow against the heads (v4 compressor).

I don't know if it helped or not, but was able to keep the heads at a nice 200f while the rings seated.
I don't get much blow by from the crankcase vent, so I call it a win. :beer:
 

the_tool_man

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RooTBeeRthe1st

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Did a little test to see how much of a difference the resonator will make, sounds a lot more stock with it. Hoping I've got enough room to shove that giant can up under there... And then hopefully get rid of all of the drone while towing.

 

Doubeleive

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Just Fishing

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Last night i got smacked by the front axle a few times.
Surprised i don't have a black eye from it. Haha

I thought i could get it in without using ratchet straps to compress the cv axles.

Answer, maybe but it's way easier to compress those things out of the way!


The hoe is mostly back together now.

I ended up not adding shims to the converter

Converter setback came out to be .120

I also didn't like how the converter felt when sliding into the flywheel.

I had that issue with original assembly.
So i gpt the bright idea to use an air blow gun with a long nose to add grease to the snout while the converter was slid all the way back into the converter

I used what i had under the truck with me.
Redline engine assembly lube.
Then worked the converter back and forth, loaded some more lube into the air nosle and gave it a few more squirts as i rotated it.

Once done i could slide the converter all the way to the flywheel with ease.

Might be my problem right there.

I did grease the crank snout, but i didn't go crazy to spread it around.

Watching some youtube last night, seems the flex plate needs to flex as the converter is pushed into the flywheel by the transmission.
If that interface isn't smooth, it could have caused some binding...

If i could go back, i would have done some light polishing/smoothing for good measure.


Next task, figure out where the heck i put a box that should have 4 oil filters... lol
 

Just Fishing

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Oh, and when installing my oil drain plug with the magnet, i noticed it liked to stick to the pan.
Me wondering wth could be magnetic took a closer look.

Apparently i have steel thread inserts on my drain plug!

Looks like it might be factory, or atleast very well done.

I can't even see a hint of a seam line.
Just a slight color difference.
 

Rocket Man

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Nearly all the RA parts are here.
FedEx updated my LCA and steam port hose-rad to be delivered on Tuesday instead of tomorrow.
And I should be getting some Lucas oil stabilizer dropped off tomorrow also, for future oil changes.

Pep boys has been my go-to auto parts store for the last 10 years because they always had the oil and filters and whatnot that I use. Well they decided to keep their service departments, but get rid of their in-store parts departments. All of that drama started a few months back. And now all of the parts departments that used to be pep boys are going to be advance Auto parts.
My autozone's, napa, O'Reilly don't carry any of the stuff I like to use unfortunately so I ended up buying stuff from Amazon this last time. Figured I'd buy in bulk because of that.
Hopefully advanced will carry all the stuff I prefer and open up soon.
/Rant/Ramble


After the radiator blew up and I put the new one in, using the old hoses I was having leaking issues. I decided to change those hoses out obviously, and then after I did all that, thought I should probably just change all of the hoses to be safe, so I finally ordered that stuff and just got it in.

Ordered the hoses between the radiator and overflow reservoir, the heater hoses to the firewall, the plastic fittings for that as well.

Goodridge stainless braided brake lines-I'll probably wait to put those on, might just order for calipers and replace them all for s's and g's and then bleed the whole system with the tech2.

Just trying to freshen up the old girl to make sure she won't leave me stranded in the middle of nowhere.
I hope those are OEM T's. The aftermarket ones are known to fail fairly quickly, especially Dormans.
 
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