What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Geotrash]

not since high school, lol we got high centered on once one guy had a subaru brat that thing was fun we used to take thing out on the powerline roads up in washington and just go b@lls out as fast as that thing would go. We beat the crap out of that thing and it never stopped, nothing to do up there but smoke weed and have kegger party's in the middle of the woods because we could, we weren't bothering anybody because there's no one out there but raccoons and squirrels.
definitely some good times growing up, lots of memories.....

I had a '90 Subaru that I drove in the oilfield for a few years. That thing was indestructible. I got it high centered on a snow drift on a county road up near Bowbells, ND. My coworker and I had been out to the bar and decided it would be fun to take one of the unplowed section line roads back to the rig. It had been snowing all week so the drifts were impressive. We were hauling ass blasting through one after the other until the queen mother of all snow drifts loomed in the headlights. I was grabbing gears to get as much torque as I could and blasted into it. Made it about halfway through when she bogged down and we got stuck. After laughing our assess off for 15 minutes we got to work digging. 3 hours later in the wee hours of the morning, we finally got her out. Did I mention it was -20ºF with a howling wind? Good times!

 

[Sam Harris]

Yes, small dongle that stays plugged into the OBD port. I use one of their splitter cables that replaces the original OBD port and have the AutoSync tucked up hidden under the dash.

The AutoSync also gives one touch down on back windows and one touch up on drivers window. You can set the power fold mirrors to auto fold when vehicle is shutoff, can roll up/down windows or fold/unfold mirrors from the remote fob, and can set the TPMS warning pressure to anything between 24-79psi or disable the system all together. Can set the backup camera to come on for a few seconds whenever you use the turn signal. Also view and clear trouble codes through the DIC.

There's a few other things also I can't think of off the top of my head right now.

Damn, that’s awesome! Wish they had one for my GMT800..

 

[the_tool_man]

Cheap, yeah I was thinking there was one that someone found for under 60 bucks or so, but that's not cheap compared to the 4L60 pans that go for like $30.
That said, I'd be cool with $100. But anything above that and I might as well just weld in a bun when I pull the pan off next time and add my own drain/plug.

Pans for the 4L60 can be had for $40 plus shipping. My guess is that the guy making them has dropped his price due to lower demand for older transmission parts. But the 6L80 is still in demand, so the price is $90 plus shipping. I just ordered one from this guy.

GM NEW THM TURBO 6L80 6L80E PAN WITH OE STYLE DRAIN PLUG | eBay

You are buying a new oil pan for any 6L80 using the factory type pan. Starting with a new GM pan and a factory drain plug bolt we add a custom nut to the pan and then install a factory style drain plug.

www.ebay.com

He charges $35 shipping, which puts it over your $100 limit. But I've got too much going on to weld one in myself, so I ponied up.

 

[DaveO9]

Brakes! Not today, but last two weeks I replaced front pads with semi-metallic and did a full fluid replacement.

For pads, I'm a firm believer in semi-metallic over ceramic. Ceramics last longer sure, but I believe it's at the expense of rotors, at least on some vehicles. (In particular the Toyota and Honda minivans we've had) I'm guessing many "warped" rotors are replaced when they may not be truly warped, just a glaze from ceramics that can cause skipping, which feels the same as warped rotors. Had that pulsation on our Toyota a year ago, replaced pads, didn't touch rotors, after a few 100 miles, pulsation went away. Downsides to semi-metallic: more dust, maybe more noise, don't last as long. But I'd rather live with those things (don't really notice anyway) and replace pads more frequently while having better, smoother stopping and changing rotors less often. Here's what I used, like them so far: https://a.co/d/8IZZq4F

For the fluid changeout, I was thinking about having a shop do it since I hate bleeding brakes, but I bought this HF number instead: https://www.harborfreight.com/pneumatic-air-operated-brake-bleeder-with-auto-refill-kit-57057.html I recommend it. Way better than those hand pump kits. Uses your air compressor to create a strong vacuum (it must use the venturi effect to do so). Also comes with an auto-filler for the master cylinder which keeps it full, allowing one-man brake bleeding. And finally you can use the vacuum mechanism to suck out the old fluid out of the M/C, down to the last drop. Everything worked well for me. As many of the reviews point out, you never really see solid fluid flow in the discharge hose, lots of air bubbles, but you just have to get past that - I'm sure it's sucking air past the threads on the bleeder and where the rubber nipple attaches to the bleeder (even though I used silicone grease like the instructions said) Once you realize the strong vacuum you're using won't allow air to go back into the brake lines, you just watch for the fluid to turn clean in the hose and you're done. Rock hard brake pedal after all four corners.

 

[Charlie207]

If I had an air compressor I would have bought one of those, but alas....

I did get the Motive pressure bleeder, as it comes with interchangeable brake reservoir adapters, so I can do GM and European cars.
It's pretty easy to suck out the old fluid with a turkey baster, fill with new fluid & attach pressure bleeder, pump it to 15psi, and crack caliper bleeders. It's easy to watch the old stuff come out into a clear bottle, and close the bleeder when you get close to the reservoir level to check and add more.

 

[Tonyrodz]

If I had an air compressor I would have bought one of those, but alas....

I did get the Motive pressure bleeder, as it comes with interchangeable brake reservoir adapters, so I can do GM and European cars.
It's pretty easy to suck out the old fluid with a turkey baster, fill with new fluid & attach pressure bleeder, pump it to 15psi, and crack caliper bleeders. It's easy to watch the old stuff come out into a clear bottle, and close the bleeder when you get close to the reservoir level to check and add more.

You could always buy a used pancake compressor. I bought one for $20. It'll serve the purpose for you.

 

[Charlie207]

You could always buy a used pancake compressor. I bought one for $20. It'll serve the purpose for you.

100% correct, but I'd also need power, right? Or do they sell small compressors that take cordless tool batteries? Or, could my car battery-powered Viair 88P sufficiently power one? (I hadn't thought of that....).

Either way, I need a power bleeder infrequently enough to not worry yet. Someday I'll ahve a garage full of tools and stuff.

 

[Fubar0715]

100% correct, but I'd also need power, right? Or do they sell small compressors that take cordless tool batteries? Or, could my car battery-powered Viair 88P sufficiently power one? (I hadn't thought of that....).

Either way, I need a power bleeder infrequently enough to not worry yet. Someday I'll ahve a garage full of tools and stuff.

Isn't this the wish of all of us? All the tools we could ever need/want and a heated/cooled place to store them...

 

[Charlie207]

Isn't this the wish of all of us? All the tools we could ever need/want and a heated/cooled place to store them...

Yeah. I have a gravel driveway, and no cover. My stuff is stored in the basement, with the doors down a hill and behind the house. It's an annoying walk to go grab 3 ton jacks and tools, and all the stuff I forgot the previous 4 times I had to walk down and around into the basement. And, no power out there, unless I run a 75' extension cord.

 

[gooffeyguy]

Isn't this the wish of all of us? All the tools we could ever need/want and a heated/cooled place to store them...

Nah