What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Grady_Wilson

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When I lived in So Cal, my batteries usually lasted about 5 years then they were done.
That was in an area that regularly saw temps up to 113*.
The only real way to know if a battery is good is to do a load test.
I bought one many years ago and I replaced that old analog one with a digital one a few years ago.
 

Charlie207

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Swapped in some 50lb. injectors after work today. Received the updated BBP tune the other day, and was waiting for so e free time.

Buttoned everything up, flashed the updated tune, and it fired right up (with no leaks). Took it for a quick drive to make sure it would run through the gears, and it seemed to run smoother.

This is the 4th version of the new 6.0 tune, as V3 was a nightmare: it hated to fire up; would just crank endlessly. It would stall every time I rolled to a stop, or coasted slowly in traffic, and had a bunch of DTCs. I don't know if there was a corruption in the file, but I flashed V3 multiple times and the engine was unhappy each time. Up until today I've been running the 2nd version of the 6.0 tune, as it had been the most stable.
 

j91z28d1

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it's kinda crazy how all the fancy battery charging control and algorithm cars have these days. built in modes to clean the plates and all. still get 3 to 5 years from them. old cars. with standard flat charging lasted the same 3 to 5 years. so much tech for so little reward.
 

j91z28d1

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always measure girth at the widest part


not always the easiest to do when you're trying to order parts ahead of time.

or in the end just use a standard worm drive clamp. the internet trend that they fail or cause failures feels fake. I've never once had a issue using a old school clamps.

the spring clamps can look nice thou, when you have a stock engine with all the same clamps. it would be nice to keep the theme going. I was one short on a catch can install, and couldn't find one local to match. being that it would probably stay one without a clamp at all, I just put a zip tie on a out of site one connection.


I wouldn't mind a nice rack of common sizes at work as long as the company paid them thou haha.
 
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not always the easiest to do when you're trying to order parts ahead of time.

or in the end just use a standard worm drive clamp. the internet trend that they fail or cause failures feels fake. I've never once had a issue using a old school clamps.

the spring clamps can look nice thou, when you have a stock engine with all the same clamps. it would be nice to keep the theme going. I was one short on a catch can install, and couldn't find one local to match. being that it would probably stay one without a clamp at all, I just put a zip tie on a out of site one connection.


I wouldn't mind a nice rack of common sizes at work as long as the company paid them thou haha.
The worm drive clamps I have on my external trans filter setup would leak during the winter and I would have to tighten them. That's why I switched them over to spring clamps
 

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