What maintenance to expect around 200k miles

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bondservant2

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Not trying to cause a pissing match but I don’t think any actual facts were offered.....and I would argue that tranny - a big hydraulic pump - IS a sterile environment.
So as to not hijack this thread I’m going to move my discussion to a new thread shortly - because apparently I need further education on this matter......
 

SnowDrifter

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Not trying to cause a pissing match but I don’t think any actual facts were offered.....and I would argue that tranny - a big hydraulic pump - IS a sterile environment.
So as to not hijack this thread I’m going to move my discussion to a new thread shortly - because apparently I need further education on this matter......

Look within the context of what I said and consider its construction and fluid path. I think the answer will come to you
 

Erickk120

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Let me get to the point on a couple things

1. Torque converter isn't a closed system. Fluid runs though it from the oil pump in the trans. It absolutely has to, otherwise the thing would overheat and boil the fluid in very short order. Torque converter is the primary source of heat in an automatic trans

2. The whole bit about flushes vs. Changes is tiresome. Sure there are some power machines that hook up to the cooler lines, but even still, those are uncommon in my experience on account of the labor involved to use them. And even still, they pump fluid at low pressures, below 60 psi, which your transmission does anyway.

3. There's this odd double think bit on the forum where the preferred method of changing fluid is to remove the cooler line and start the car (which I disagree with) while simultaneously saying that doing the same thing with a machine which adds fluid at the same time do avoid running thr pan dry is bad

4. You don't need to get all the old fluid out. The system is not that sterile

5. If you ever find yourself at a point where you don't want to flush/change/drain/whatever nomenclature you want because of fear that sludge will be moved around, then I suggest you do some reading. Transmissions don't undergo any combustion and as such, do not form sludge. The only debris that can form in a transmission are wear metals, which will be attracted to magnets at the bottom of the pan, and clutch material, which will be suspended in the fluid. If you change your fluid and find that your trans is ******* up after, it's no fault of the fluid change/method, you'd just discovered that your trans was EOL and was set to blow up within the next couple thousand miles anyway. If your reason for changing fluid is because of poor shifting/slipping/etc, there's a good chance fluid won't help it on account of damage to the hard parts already being done

Amen! I took my 4l60 out to do bushings in the pump assembly, fairly low miles 50kish miles since rebuild, Took tc out, didn't empty anything, took the pan out filter, etc, removed pump, did the work, helicoiled a stripped bolt and slapped it back together, took roughly 6/7 quarts to refill to full levels again, I can imagine the tc takes a good chunk of fluid, as it was heavy as **** and the rest hides in the valves, and rear of the unit.
 

Mercerbeef

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Wow! My wife bought a Yukon because she always wanted one, looks like we stepped into the overhaul mileage. Half (less expensive) was done by previous owner ( her uncle) and they didn’t mention what it still needs.
Brakes pads and rotors done but they fade or get hard , we bled them but it didn’t help much.

I was told the transmission is at 45%, and need a new or rebuild. Will one out of an 00’ or 02 fit?




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SnowDrifter

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Wow! My wife bought a Yukon because she always wanted one, looks like we stepped into the overhaul mileage. Half (less expensive) was done by previous owner ( her uncle) and they didn’t mention what it still needs.
Brakes pads and rotors done but they fade or get hard , we bled them but it didn’t help much.

I was told the transmission is at 45%, and need a new or rebuild. Will one out of an 00’ or 02 fit?




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Brakes are no biggie. Fading is no Bueno. Verify that a caliper isn't sticking or something though. Brake fade shouldn't happen in normal diving conditions. Typically you really need tok push the systems hard for that to happen. Like on mine, I don't get fade until the 5th consecutive 60-0 stop.

Not sure what that means, trans is at 45%? There's no external access to measure band or clutch thickness
 

OneofFew

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A common pattern in transmission failures is bigger than stock tires. They may look cool, but....
Suspension and shocks will need to be redone soon. If you have autoride- have fun paying for that.
 

clandr1

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OP, don't worry too much. I've had my truck since it was brand new (over 13 years now) and here are some of the things I've done. I still think it's been a great truck that's required very little maintenance overall. I have 201,000 miles on it now and wouldn't hesitate to take it across country tomorrow.

water pump
brakes (x2)
shocks
power steering pump
power steering box
windshield washer fluid pump
inner/outer tie rods
A/C belt tensioner
fuel pump
wheel bearings
oil pump pickup tube o-ring
 

V30Crewcab

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what about the timing chain?
my tahoe has 240K, and I know the water pump and rad have been replaced, but no real service records on it, so no idea what else other than what i've done.
 

SnowDrifter

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what about the timing chain?
my tahoe has 240K, and I know the water pump and rad have been replaced, but no real service records on it, so no idea what else other than what i've done.
There's no scheduled interval for replacement.

I don't know what the spec is, or even if there is a published spec for slack, but when u had my front cover off on my rig I opted to not do the timing chain. There wasn't much slack. Granted you have 100k miles on me but ehh. YMMV, so to speak
 

Mercerbeef

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Brakes are no biggie. Fading is no Bueno. Verify that a caliper isn't sticking or something though. Brake fade shouldn't happen in normal diving conditions. Typically you really need tok push the systems hard for that to happen. Like on mine, I don't get fade until the 5th consecutive 60-0 stop.

Not sure what that means, trans is at 45%? There's no external access to measure band or clutch thickness
They scanned it and said the transmission is at 45% , it’s on the way out. Previous owner had 22”s on it ( bald rears), I switched it back to 16’s and new Lt tires.

Could the abs sensor cause the brake problem?




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