what serious upgrade would you do first?

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02_Tahoe

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Completely understand man. The pinion shims on your stock pinion will be the shims you want to match new shims to. The shims on the pinion are for that specific differential housing not the actual pinion. Example, if we were to swap pinions, the shims that are with my setup have to stay with my setup. I would put my current pinion shims on the pinion I was getting from you. Same with the differential carrier shims. So technically, in theory, you can regear your rear end without a pinion depth gauge or dial indicator but it's good practice to double check and reverify that everything is still within the specs. I hope I wrote that in a way that makes sense.

Hell yeah to becomin a diesel tech!
Did you regear yourself?
And thanks looking forward to only having to drop money on Tahoe parts and not on the installations too
 

M1Gunner

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When you used the same shims, was the backlash the same or did you have to adjust it

I didn't measure the backlash before I removed anything but the specifications for backlash falls between .003-.010 (preferred is .005-.007). After the new crush sleeve was preloaded and the diff carrier was shimmed and torqued down my backlash reading was .0056 which you really can't get anymore perfect than that. Once I got those readings I verified the gear teeth contact with marking compound and it was perfectly centered on the convex and concave sides of the ring gear. The factory shim measurements held true and I haven't had any issues.
 

02_Tahoe

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I didn't measure the backlash before I removed anything but the specifications for backlash falls between .003-.010 (preferred is .005-.007). After the new crush sleeve was preloaded and the diff carrier was shimmed and torqued down my backlash reading was .0056 which you really can't get anymore perfect than that. Once I got those readings I verified the gear teeth contact with marking compound and it was perfectly centered on the convex and concave sides of the ring gear. The factory shim measurements held true and I haven't had any issues.
Now I really want to try it myself. I wonder if I can borrow tools from advanced auto
 

TXBowtieGuy

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If I had the doe to throw around I would start with built engine turbo charged with all the bolt on upgrades, CAI, throttle body ect. ect. Then onto full off road exhaust w/ push button open header flanges. Then into a built trans for engine. A set rear gear ratio set to tires then to the suspension w/ a full 6" lift w/ 35/12.5/20 wheels and tires, along with full set of a Wilwood brake kit. Then into the interior, full roll cage, replace interior clothe/leather with Katzkin swade and leather seats. Double din stereo fully loaded. Custom built sub and amp box. After market door speakers with added mids and high range speakers all on separate amp than sub. Then last would be a new paint job prolly a simple two tone at the upper body line and replaced or repair any of the body parts as needed.


You know those are just the basics but you get the point.


Throttle body spacers are a waste of money. They don't do anything on a fuel injected motor. Also most cold air intakes are crap too. Get an Airaid Jr, High flow filter and exhaust. For starters. Then a tune. If you have some cash get a cam before you tune. That setup will really wake up your 5.3. Everybody here recommends Blackbear tunes. I am pre-tune but plan on it as soon as I get my cam.
 

jarydM

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Throttle body spacers are a waste of money. They don't do anything on a fuel injected motor. Also most cold air intakes are crap too. Get an Airaid Jr, High flow filter and exhaust. For starters. Then a tune. If you have some cash get a cam before you tune. That setup will really wake up your 5.3. Everybody here recommends Blackbear tunes. I am pre-tune but plan on it as soon as I get my cam.

I plan on the tune after the headers go on. already have the intake. Tune to the new fuel/air ratio, and maybe go with a 89 oct tune.
 

02_Tahoe

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Throttle body spacers are a waste of money. They don't do anything on a fuel injected motor. Also most cold air intakes are crap too. Get an Airaid Jr, High flow filter and exhaust. For starters. Then a tune. If you have some cash get a cam before you tune. That setup will really wake up your 5.3. Everybody here recommends Blackbear tunes. I am pre-tune but plan on it as soon as I get my cam.
He meant a bigger throttle body to take in more fuel/air
 

TheAutumnWind

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Whatever lift you go with, make sure it has torsion bar relocation brackets. You want to keep the torsion bars tucked up in the frame. Such an eyesore if those things are hanging down... like mine. I hate that mine are exposed and now I can't find any relocation brackets to tuck them back up without buying a whole new lift.


took me two seconds to find some on google:

http://realiftsusp.com/
 

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