What should i do about oil leak

[ahunn]

So I just checked again and I don't have the oil cooler lines. The blockoff plate does look to be leaking tho. The oil pan looks bad again and I see oil around rear main. I'm gonna order the blockoff plate and new valve cover. I'll see how it goes after that.
I'm still trying to find another mechanic with a good price. It's not looking good and I may wind up going with a guy who will do the repair for 1400. sigh. Well I'm off to bed. Got work at 4 in the am.

 

[Rocket Man]

So I just checked again and I don't have the oil cooler lines. The blockoff plate does look to be leaking tho. The oil pan looks bad again and I see oil around rear main. I'm gonna order the blockoff plate and new valve cover. I'll see how it goes after that.
I'm still trying to find another mechanic with a good price. It's not looking good and I may wind up going with a guy who will do the repair for 1400. sigh. Well I'm off to bed. Got work at 4 in the am.

How are you able to see the rear main?

 

[OR VietVet]

On my 02 I used one of these and it sealed right up. The stock ones are flimsy compared to this one.

 

[WickedGoat]

My guess is there are multiple oil leaks going on and I am confident that the OP can do this work and save a f*ck-ton of money in the process.

My 2004 Yukon is just shy off 200k miles and I just fixed a few leaks. I replaced the valve cover gaskets, the oil pressure sending unit (because it comes with a new gasket), the oil cooler block off plate gasket, and the oil pan gasket, which had been seeping for quite a while. I also bought a rear main seal cover and installation tool but ended up not doing the rear main.

I did the valve covers and oil pressure sending unit one day and did the oil pan and block off cover plate gaskets another day. I tried to get the oil pressure sender without removing the intake but no dice. I pulled the intake and checked the valley cover and the crank or cam sensor next to the oil sender and both looked good to me. The oil sender was pretty wet.

The oil pan gasket was not bad at all with 4WD. Non 4WD is a walk in the park. The hardest part is snaking the pan back up in place with the new gasket, if you didn't rivet the new one on like I didn't. While I had the pan off I replaced the oil pump pick up tube seal just because. After all of this, if my rear main is leaking, it is very little and not worth the effort to pull the trans at this time. I did this work a few months ago and the engine is very clean. I saw a couple of trails but it could be from cleaning the engine. I used 2 cans of brake cleaner on it and then hit it with a can of engine degreaser and power washed it. There are no more drips in my driveway. Save yourself some money and fix this stuff yourself.

 

[badtothe bone]

TRansmission shop here charges about $550 - $600 to change a transmission. Once the transmission is out - its simple to change the rear main seal, it unbolts and no you don't have to take off the oil pan to change it. Lots of bad advice here on this forum. With oil, fluid for the trans and a new trans filter I would put the whole job at $800.00 Then you would have something.
Not only would your oil leak problem be solved, but you would start out again with a clean transmission and new tranny pan gasket and front oil seal on the transmission.

 

[Rocket Man]

TRansmission shop here charges about $550 - $600 to change a transmission. Once the transmission is out - its simple to change the rear main seal, it unbolts and no you don't have to take off the oil pan to change it. Lots of bad advice here on this forum. With oil, fluid for the trans and a new trans filter I would put the whole job at $800.00 Then you would have something.
Not only would your oil leak problem be solved, but you would start out again with a clean transmission and new tranny pan gasket and front oil seal on the transmission.

And pray tell what bad advice are you referring to here on this forum?

 

[azmike]

07 Tahoe 4wd and rear main seal is leaking and oil pan. Depending on my driving habits I'm adding two quarts every two weeks.
My dilemma is I can get it repaired at dealer for 2100$ which I think is expensive. Is it? Carx quoted me 1700$ depending on how hard the oil pan is to get to after removing Trans. If not that hard it would be cheaper.
I'm leaning towards carx due to the cheaper price but who would you guys trust with the repairs?

My rear main seal has been leaking on my 2000 Yukon for over 100,000 miles. It's an expensive repair and there is no guarantee that it won't eventually leak again. Mine actually got a little better as the vehicle aged, LOL. So, I'm just adding oil as needed. 2 quarts every 2 weeks sounds like a lot just for the rear main. I agree on checking the bolts on the oil pan.

 

[Larryjb]

Where are you? I got a guy in Dallas that’ll do it for $800

$800 seems cheap. Having done one of these before, even with a lift and all the equipment I wouldn't do a 4WD rear main for that. I'd value my work more than that.

Will they take care to not break electrical connectors?
Will they replace both the rear cover and rear main?
Will they clean the belt threads to get accurate torque when installing?

 

[CaptainAmerica1]

Yeah $600 of it is transmission r&r otherwise it’s cake…

 

[2591tdj]

My repairman quoted $800 to replace the rear mail seal on my Z71. He said that it’s easier for him to pull the engine to do the seal and pan gasket replacement. Both he and the oil change place advised me to keep adding oil until it got much worse or if I couldn’t stand the leaks. The leak’s not bad.