Which brakes to get ?

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Ghost10

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Ok I think it’s time to get new brakes and I would rather just replace rotors and pads and I want slotted because it looks cool to me

I found these setups
My plan is to buy the parts and then find a brake shop that can do it because I don’t have a lift or jack.

I’d like to spend $500 or less I have no idea what brakes I should get except I drive daily atleast 50mi

And I want them to last and no I don’t have brembo brakes just big ones in the front and little in the back
 

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swathdiver

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That's pretty inexpensive, GM OE is about $350 per axle right now for new pads and rotors. When was the last time you replaced the brake caliper hardware or even the calipers themselves?

California in all of its wisdom has now banned copper from brake pads. The way I figure, if they banned copper, it must be good for braking, so my advice is to get pads with copper in them.

Edit- Adjusted prices per axle which include new spindle nuts and washers and drag reduction clips.
 
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Ghost10

Ghost10

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That's pretty inexpensive, GM OE is about $400 per axle right now for new pads and rotors. When was the last time you replaced the brake caliper hardware or even the calipers themselves?

California in all of its wisdom has now banned copper from brake pads. The way I figure, if they banned copper, it must be good for braking, so my advice is to get pads with copper in them.
Well 2018 never replaced anything
Brakes work don’t squeak and they def stop on a dime but I figure I should get em now.
 

RST Dana

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I’ve tried powerstop and now just installed R1. Ceramic pads in both cases. Amazon had the best pricing both times.
 
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Ghost10

Ghost10

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the rear rotors have lines, I assume that is bad ? Again brakes work fine, ok maybe when I got the truck when it had only 20k on it the brakes were amazing now it takes a little more weight to stop but I’m also at 61k now

Here’s the fronts
8507B527-66A2-4DFA-9984-B08F4957A092.jpeg6BB3368A-86D2-48D1-A208-AD06D1BE0817.jpeg
And tears with lines
B62F2FFA-670F-4ED4-A1C7-F914F4E4AAFB.jpeg362C4A39-5E1E-4960-A14C-231B86265357.jpeg
 

swathdiver

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I don't remember what that meant. Some of mine have lines as well. I'll measure them and see if they can still be turned and if so, will buy new rotors and have the old ones turned for next time. We have three now with the same brakes!
 

OR VietVet

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I see no problems with the brakes in these pics. The pads look to be still just under 1/2 thickness. Brakes are the most important system on any vehicle, period! Why would you switch from OE brakes that do a great job and last a long time? To look cool, C'MON MAN!!! AYFKM.....

I bet your existing brakes make no noises that worry you.

You know what....I changed my mind....Do whatever you want to look how you want with the brakes that can only be seen when stopped. I'm sorry. I lash out because the body, wheels, tires and lighting can look cool but the brakes need to STOP. That is cool!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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Ghost10

Ghost10

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I see no problems with the brakes in these pics. The pads look to be still just under 1/2 thickness. Brakes are the most important system on any vehicle, period! Why would you switch from OE brakes that do a great job and last a long time? To look cool, C'MON MAN!!! AYFKM.....

I bet your existing brakes make no noises that worry you.

You know what....I changed my mind....Do whatever you want to look how you want with the brakes that can only be seen when stopped. I'm sorry. I lash out because the body, wheels, tires and lighting can look cool but the brakes need to STOP. That is cool!!!!!!!!!!!!
Ok then I don’t need rotors or brakes.
What strikes me is I drive a 20% grade every day to get o a city and let’s say at 55mph you’ll be done it in 6 minutes when the rest of us hit ridding fast paced drivers go down it at 75-80mph your down it in 2 min or less +/-
Anyways long story short no matter the speed the grade braking system automatically kicks in dropping trans gears to low, however brakes heat up fast man actually 2 presses on the Penske and the third is a rumble and a shake truck still stops but it’s kinda scary
 

OR VietVet

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Depends on how you ride the brakes when you are going down the grade. You should be letting the engine and transmission do the slowing down and apply the brakes with a good press to slow down and then let up after you get below the speed limit a bit and let it coast again and then you are letting the rotors/pads cool. Rotors can warp a bit when they get heat in them and cause a pulsation from the high and low spots rolling thru the pads as you apply. That comes from sometimes applying the brake pressure too much or riding them constantly low down the grade and not allowing them to back off and cool as I suggested. Those minimal lines you see are nothing. What you don't want to see is deeper grooves. Going faster down the grade just means those drivers apply less brakes than you. You go as fast as you feel comfortable doing. If your engine and transmission do not help you slow down automatically, you gear down and do it manually. Think of this cool look you talk about. Cool be damned when it comes to brake safety. Paint the damn calipers pink for all I care but I care about stopping safely and not the cool factor. Like I said, Brakes are THE most important system on that rig. Be safe and not cool.
 

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