Wiring harness help

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magnahoe

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Has anyone done the upgraded 4x4 harness on a 96 4door? My parts are coming tomorrow, it it just plug and play or do I need to splice into something?
 

loulblades

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2 splices:

Disconnect battery

Cut off connector that goes to the diff switch.

Splice blk/wht wire from new connector to blk/wht wire that went to the switch connector.

Tape off other wire to old connector (I think it is black).

Splice in brown wire to hot side of transfer case switch (or some other IGN source).

There should be a 2 pin connector that plugs into the old actuator connector.

Oh yeah, reconnect battery.
 
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magnahoe

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Do you connect the brown wire on the top passenger side of the t case where a single brown wire is clipped in, or somewhere else?
 

bsamoul

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Hey man let me know how it works. I'm still waiting for my wiring harness, I think it might show up tomorrow.
 

loulblades

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Not sure which side. I would guess the driver's side since the power is coming from the fuse box on the driver's side.

If you have a meter or light, you can check which side of the switch has power when the key is on and you are in 2WD. If you are in 4WD, it will have power on both sides because that is what provides power to activate the front diff actuator.
 
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magnahoe

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Hey man let me know how it works. I'm still waiting for my wiring harness, I think it might show up tomorrow.

brought it up to my dads friends shop he is going to do it tomorrow morning. It would be a pain without a lift. I ordered mine after I saw your links wonder how I got mine first?
 

bsamoul

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2 splices:

Disconnect battery

Cut off connector that goes to the diff switch.

Splice blk/wht wire from new connector to blk/wht wire that went to the switch connector.

Tape off other wire to old connector (I think it is black).

Splice in brown wire to hot side of transfer case switch (or some other IGN source).

There should be a 2 pin connector that plugs into the old actuator connector.

Oh yeah, reconnect battery.

Why two splices?? Nevermind, I am just running things in my head and realized I'd have another connecter going to nothing. I'm going to finish tomorrow, it took 1.5 hours and haven't been able to find that stupid brown wire, have to find a way to get to top of transfer case.

---------- Post added at 08:06 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:28 PM ----------

also, do you stick the spacer thing in before you put the actuator on? i'm not sure what it's for
 
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loulblades

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Why two splices?? Nevermind, I am just running things in my head and realized I'd have another connecter going to nothing. I'm going to finish tomorrow, it took 1.5 hours and haven't been able to find that stupid brown wire, have to find a way to get to top of transfer case.

---------- Post added at 08:06 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:28 PM ----------

also, do you stick the spacer thing in before you put the actuator on? i'm not sure what it's for


When you are done there will be a pin connector that goes to the diff switch that is not used anymore if that is what you are referring to ("...connector going to nothing").

Not sure what spacer you are referring to though.
 
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magnahoe

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yeah the spacer goes in before the actuator if it doesn't line up right use a screw driver to adjust it.

The updated harness is for a 96 (97?) made after JAN 1. I believe that it is the only way to replace the actuator in the diff because I couldn't find an old style one anywhere. They call it a upgrade because it isn't thermal so it engages faster. If your 4x4 works don't bother with the harness and new actuator.

The parts I got where

Doorman 600-600 (harness)
Doorman 600-101 (actuator)

Basmoul I'll crawl under it tonight and tell you where the brown wire goes.
 
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