If you're doing your own work, and only farming out the major machine shop work, I say rebuild it and drive it as a beater when you don't want to drive your newer Tahoe.
Keep the older one for mostly winter driving, being as it is already a little rusty, and keep the newer one away from the road...
I think it really depends on your budget.
Do you have the money for a $8k to 10k total rebuild of the engine or do you want to just get it running enough to sell it?
Also, labor rates vary greatly from one part of the country to the other, would be helpful to know your location so others here...
You can get 88 here in WY.
I live at about 5,000 feet elevation.
Many stations even offer 85, which I have never seen at stations in lower altitudes.
But, 88 is still too low an octane level to use in my Yukon with the 6.2.
I just ran all of the windshield washer fluid through both front and rear systems.
Need to grab some of the winter stuff so I can get ready for cold temps.
Was 36* the other morning but sprang back up to 64* this morning.
Winter is coming.
I back in to park when I can.
I even back into my driveway at home.
When I worked highway construction / maintenance, a backing accident was your fault 99% of the time so I was taught to really pay attention to your surroundings and never backup unless you absolutely have to.
The rule of thumb...
I agree, visibility to the rear quarters is horrible.
Around town they love angled parking on the street and it is horrible to try and back out and look through that portion of the vehicle.
I always have to use my camera to double check if anyone is coming down the street.
I was just about to post that exact video after looking at the first page of this thread.
Stretch belts lower costs because there is no tensioner needed.
Personally, I prefer the old school, loosen the alternator bolt, use a pry bar to tighten the belt and tighten the alternator bolt.
This new...
Thanks for the link.
My Yukon is 100% stock so no CAI.
Not sure how much of a difference it would make since the temps never really get much above 90* even in the hottest summer days.
And, since it gets below zero in the winter I just wonder how that would effect the engine if I had a CAI...
My Yukon has about 130k on it now.
I just looked up the price of a new throttle body and for a little over $100 I think I will order one and have it on the shelf, just in case.
That has been leaking for some time now.
I would remove the A pillar trim and see if you can see any evidence of moisture there.
That would give you a clue to see if it is coming from above the windshield.
You know, I was hesitant about push button ignitions until I bought the Kia PHEV I used to commute in.
After driving that car for 3 years, I quickly became accustomed to never taking the fob out of my pocket.
Now, I often find myself having to dig into my pocket for the key to start my Yukon...
Those mats look kinda like a version of the ones I bought for the wife's car.
A lot more textured than a smooth Weathertech.
Even they can get a little slippery at times but most times they are decent and provide decent grip for your shoes.
I have a sort of Weathertech version in my Yukon now...
When I lived in So Cal, my batteries usually lasted about 5 years then they were done.
That was in an area that regularly saw temps up to 113*.
The only real way to know if a battery is good is to do a load test.
I bought one many years ago and I replaced that old analog one with a digital one a...
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