The parts you need to fix the front end are a dime a dozen on craigslist or Facebook marketplace, these are always being parted out.
Your major expense that will dwarf the cost of what you damaged in the collision will be the transmission you destroyed by going further than the shoulder of the...
The more bolt you have driven above the key the more likely the bolt will bend and/or break under a load, keys indexed for lift enable the extension of the bolt to remain well within the factory parameters; so no they are not a scam.
I had similar symptoms once when my 02 sensor was sending a signal to the ecm that the fuel mixture was too lean, the signal was within range so no check engine light but power was poor and the bucking at lower RPM's was prominent. I disconnected the 02 sensor and everything smoothed right out...
I use an old transmission line with a hose slipped over the end to get it below the bumper.
The upper transmission line on the radiator is the line that returns the oil to the transmission, I just pop off that return line and pop in my line with the hose and stick a bucket under the hose.
Then...
If you are not dripping on the floor ignore this, pans don't "fall apart" all at once and most cars have a light oil film around the pan that is visible at oil change time.
If it really is cracked it is not all the way through or there would be an oil mess, I would bet they are seeing hairline...
Sounds like a power steering pump if the noise changes with rpm, a failing transmission pump can do this as well but there are usually other symptoms that go along with the whining.
You have checked the power steering fluid level and the transmission fluid level I assume?
If the bolt is broken flush with the manifold you can remove the manifold and grab it with vise grips, they always break flush with the head on my stuff so a left hand bit with an easy out is my only option; if that is your case then you might have to raise the motor up a bit to get good enough...
If the A/C always blows cold out of some vents but not others you have a blend door sticking, the actuators are not the only thing that cause blend doors to move insufficiently; it could be something fell down into the diverter box (like a pen from the dash) that prevents full travel of the...
What causes engine wear is unburned fuel after the power stroke, that creates carbon deposits which rob the spark needed for the next power stroke and contaminate the oil and cylinder walls with abrasive deposits that kill the rings.
Old engines had a fraction of the spark that modern coil...
My wife called me today from a parking lot where our 2004 Tahoe was not starting, the starter cranked well but it would not fire up. I asked if she had gas, she looked at the gauge and said IT'S EMPTY! But she was certain it had 1/2 of tank when she parked it.
I said to get a gallon of gas in...
A plugged Cat will cause a power loss, it will not create the rotten egg smell.
It sounds like you have one or both of your upstream 02 sensors reporting a false lean condition, I would say a possible injector but you would feel a miss if an injector was leaking into a cylinder when it should...
It sounds like your neutral safety switch is bad or out of adjustment, if the switch thinks you are not in park or neutral it will not let the power go through to the solenoid wire on the starter; causing your exact symptom.
If you go with a crate motor that matches your vehicle this is not a very difficult task, you just pull the old motor and pressure wash it; then set it down next to the new crate motor and swap over all the stuff that is not included on the new engine.
You can buy an adequate cherry picker from...
An LS motor will mount to most Chevy transmissions so your 4x4 running gear can remain intact.
The issue is basically the physical fitment of the engine, everyone deals with the same few hurdles;
Oil pan clearance
Exhaust clearance
Steering clearance
Accessory drive clearance
For some of...
If it was a failure of the crankshaft position sensor it would have a code stored revealing that, if it does not have a code stored I would start by checking your key cylinder and housing for signs of slop/wear and also your fuel pressure.
You would not be the first to have a new fuel pump die...
I am unsure if you are saying it cranks harder in the morning or it cranks fine but struggles starting.
If it cranks hard only on cold mornings your battery is showing early signs of failure.
If it cranks good but won't start very well try turning your key to "on" but not cranking the starter...
I use and old tranny line bent to hang down below the radiator, start the engine and run till it sputters; then drop the now empty pan and replace the filter and sleeve.
Then I pour in five quarts and start it again with my purge line still connected, I pour in new fluid as the system is...
Do you have the manual lever or the push button control on the Transfer Case?
Sometimes the Transfer Case can get caught between gears and lock up the shafts, with the manual lever you can just knock it forward and back to free it but you have to crawl under with the push button models.
The 41 code can be the seat but anywhere on the drivers side of the system that has a failed component will cause the open loop code (B0041), since the B0026 code is specific to the column bag/clock spring I would address that first and see if the 41 code goes inactive when you do.
Those are not airbag wires and yes it looks like the wrong diagram on the cover.
B0026 & B0041 are likely a bad clock spring in the steering column, B0026 is usually a clock spring or bad airbag and when that occurs it creates the "Open Loop" which is the B0041.
The B2973 is something in the...
I don't see an issue with the tailpipe water, that is pretty normal; but the noticeable power loss is not normal.
250k or 50k a Vortec/LS engine will pull about the same, if they lose power without an obvious hardware failure like rod knock, dropped valve or massive smoking out the pipe then I...
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