"06 Escalade Build: Engine cover finished!

[m1949]

Got the 'Clade registered today with a vanity plate. Won't be here for a few weeks; but this is how it will look. Since MS doesn't issue front plates I got one that's personalized off ebay.

 

[m1949]

With only a couple of small kinks to work out the 11 month long build on our 2006 Escalade is complete. It looks great. I will be posting the link here to a Youtube video I hope to have finished in the next two or three weeks. It will showcase and describe the work that was done.

The two issues soon to be resolved are: 1. The mufflers still drone even after adding a pair of resonators. So, after consulting with a couple of muffler guys here we will be swapping out the magnaflow 18" muffler for a 22". 2. The free travel mod will be done next week.

On very pleasant surprise is we are getting amazing mpg. I reset the ave. mpg when we filled up before starting home. On the trip home from N. AL we averaged 21.7. I was so shocked by the number at first I thought maybe the tuner had not recalibrated for higher volume injectors. So, I did a manual calculation of miles driven divided by gallons to fill-up and came up with the 21.7mpg for the all highway miles tank of gas. Since then we've filled up twice and have done about 20% highway and the rest very stop-and-go town traffic as this week is "Cruising the Coast" here and we've been out cruisin' everyday. Below shows we are averaging 18.1 for mostly town driving. I know its hard to believe. But the fuel economy of this LS364/450 engine as setup and tuned is pleasantly amazing! Couldn't be happier. And ........ its faster than a scalded dog!

 

[m1949]

It's been a few weeks since we got the Escalade back from the builder. It needed a few tweaks. HVAC was being weird so I changed the cabin air and ambient air temp sensors, which fixed it. Replaced the 18" magnaflow with a 24", which almost completely eliminated drone. Had the suspension tweaked and shorter bump stops installed up front. Upgraded the security sytem and had the radio reinstalled (even I could tell the first insall was not done well.)

So now I'm moving on to some fun stuff. I've never cared for the engine cover that came on Gen2 Escalades. Its curvy styling doesn't match the linear lines of Gen 2s. Nor do I like the bland engine covers on the Gen3. They are just too utilitarian. So, I'm going to try designing and making one. My idea to to make on that is linear and which hints big block and scoop. Below are photos of my first try at a cardboard mockup. Once I finalize the design I plan to make one with fiberglass and if I like it I'll do a second in carbon fiber.

 

[Rocket Man]

The front “ bump stops” aren’t bump stops, they’re called jounce stops and act as a fulcrum point for the torsion bars. They should be in contact with, or really close to, the control arm at ride height. I did cut my stock ones off by 1/2” after installing Belltech 2” drop spindles because they were actually keeping the front from dropping the full 2”. Not sure if you know about the purpose of these, most people think they’re bump stops like the rear are, where they aren’t supposed to touch.

 

[m1949]

The front “ bump stops” aren’t bump stops, they’re called jounce stops and act as a fulcrum point for the torsion bars. They should be in contact with, or really close to, the control arm at ride height. I did cut my stock ones off by 1/2” after installing Belltech 2” drop spindles because they were actually keeping the front from dropping the full 2”. Not sure if you know about the purpose of these, most people think they’re bump stops like the rear are, where they aren’t supposed to touch.

Thanks for the info. I knew they are called jounce stops, but assumed that was another name for bump stops. At my direction the people who originally did the suspension didn't do the free travel mod, and I was having a problem with bottoming out. I reached out to Tony at Norcal who said the FTM is the best way to fix it and shorter front joust stops would also help ride quality.We did both and the ride is much better.

 

[m1949]

The work continues on a new engine cover. Here are photos of the mock-up and plug. I made the mock-up for style design and to assure fit. It is also the model for the styrofoam plug, which will be used as a mold for fiberglassing. I still need to cover the plug with drywall mud or bondo for final design style and finish, then paint it, and then add several coats of wax before its ready for fiberglass.

 

[m1949]

Work continues on the engine cover. This is the rough finish mold on the engine to confirm general fit. I'll need to do some trimming for hoses and cables and add openings for the oil fill and transmission dip stick. I'll do all that on the actual cover. Next, comes bondo, primer, gelcoat and wax. Then I'll be ready to do some fiberglassing to make the final mold.

 

[iamdub]

Work continues on the engine cover. This is the rough finish mold on the engine to confirm general fit. I'll need to do some trimming for hoses and cables and add openings for the oil fill and transmission dip stick. I'll do all that on the actual cover. Next, comes bondo, primer, gelcoat and wax. Then I'll be ready to do some fiberglassing to make the final mold.

I like the incorporation of the angles with how they fit the body lines. That front mimics the grille.

 

[m1949]

Thanks for noticing. That's the look I'm after. The Gen2 bodies have great angular lines that remind me of the sharp angles on the stealth bomber. I tried to incorporate similar lines into this design.

 

[m1949]

Wow man that looks really good! At first I’ve wasnt crazy about the steering wheel but the more I looked the more I realized it ties the interior color scheme together unlike the black leather or shale leather wheel against the red seats and dash. I’m jealous! That’s very unique and done very well!!

Side bar: curios to know how they re did the leather on the steering wheel to match the seats? An actual leather covered stitched onto the steering wheel frame like the factory finish originally was? Hard to tell from photos but looks that way as the leather looks like it’s snuged up perfectly to the wood grain grips the way the original factory leather would if it the leather surfaced cover was fitted and stitched into place on the frame work of the wheel!

The builder cleaned and sanded the leather on the steering wheel, then redyed it. I questioned him about durability. He said He uses this process and these products all the time to recondition and dye worn and cracked leather seats; and that the new finish holds up as well as the original.