I had not tested the 12 v wire to the starter while cranking. It is 12.x volts when the power is on but this wire also drops down to 6.x volts when cranking. So both wires to the starter are not getting 12 volts. I tested the voltage at the battery while cranking and i'm getting 6-7 volts. Is this kind of voltage drop right at the battery while cranking normal? I just bought this battery yesterday.
2001 Tahoe..Only 6 volts at battery - No power - No start
- Thread starter kirkh34
- Start date
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Any battery that drops below 9.6 volts while cranking is a bad battery, IMO.
Right now I am at a loss. Hopefully others will chime in.
I have come to the conclusion that the engine is seized. I unbolted the starter from the block but left it hooked up and grounded it. I tested the voltage at the battery again while cranking and got normal voltage 11.x v while cranking. I tested the voltage at the wires on the starter and solenoid while cranking and got normal voltage 11.x volts. After researching, I found that someone else experience this voltage drop as well at the battery with a brand new battery. A seized alternator was the culprit. Someone also mentioned a seized engine would have this effect as well with the starter working overtime to try and turn the engine. I took the belts off and the alternator and all other pulleys spun freely so I was good there. I removed the spark plugs and tried to turn the engine by hand with a breaker bar and did not move the slightest bit. Not sure why it seized but how it died while driving it makes sense. It had oil in it so the only thing I can think is the oil pump went out? Who knows. I'm glad to come to a resolution at least.
here is what I would do.
make sure it is in park
turn the key to run
jump a wire from the starter motor positive wire to the solenoid positive wire.
truck should start and run
if so then you have a low voltage issue to the solenoid, be it a bad wire, relay or whatever. at least you know it's not the engine.
make sure it is in park
turn the key to run
jump a wire from the starter motor positive wire to the solenoid positive wire.
truck should start and run
if so then you have a low voltage issue to the solenoid, be it a bad wire, relay or whatever. at least you know it's not the engine.
I have done this too with no luck. I ran a new solenoid wire and supplied 12 volts bypassing the relay completely. I went through the circuit backwards from the starter to find out I am having a 6 volt+ drop at the battery while cranking. It is a new battery and I had it tested anyway and it was good. This led me to my last post before this confirming no abnormal voltage drop when the starter isn't trying to turn the engine. This plus my inability to turn the engine by hand leads me to believe it's seized.
You keep saying, "while cranking". That does not mean "while turning the key", that means "while the engine is spinning/cranking". If the engine is moving when turning the key to the start position then it is not seized. If the engine will not "SPIN", then you have a seized engine.
the engine isn't just going to "seize" for no good reason, if it was working fine when you last shut it off then it's not seized.
and like Ron said you keep saying while cranking, "cranking" means the engine is spinning-but hasn't started (it's just spinning) if this is the case then the engine is def not seized and you may have a fuel issue instead, have you checked the fuel pressure? the fuel pump going out would explain why it just died going down the road..
and like Ron said you keep saying while cranking, "cranking" means the engine is spinning-but hasn't started (it's just spinning) if this is the case then the engine is def not seized and you may have a fuel issue instead, have you checked the fuel pressure? the fuel pump going out would explain why it just died going down the road..
That is something else powered up by the ignition switch as well.
