Thanks!
Its a game of fix one problem then notice another. Like I noticed the hood mounted light needs a new bulb.
FWIW I need to clean out the mirror switch more. All directions but one work now. Before 0 worked.
2002 Yukon, 140k miles, Fixing up over time
- Thread starter tgui
- Start date
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Thanks!
Its a game of fix one problem then notice another. Like I noticed the hood mounted light needs a new bulb.
FWIW I need to clean out the mirror switch more. All directions but one work now. Before 0 worked.
I had to rebuild the front drive shaft. I was getting a nasty vibration at 1.2k ish RPM. What a pain in the ass. I had to do it two times over. I even managed to destroy a Moog u joint with a dropped needle bearing in the cap. I over torqued and shot that cap across the garage. Having to melt the OG poly u joints were a pain too. I used a propane torch.
I bent this. Even after torching the poly out.
Next try I got a rented tool frome Autozone. The process was crank-crank-tap end with hammer. Every time it sounded like a gunshot when the stock u joints broke that poly.
Also I had issues with tight joints. The second rebuild I shaved down a couple c-clips to stop the joints from binding. When too tight I got bad and strange vibrations.
Now all is perfect!!
I bent this. Even after torching the poly out.
Next try I got a rented tool frome Autozone. The process was crank-crank-tap end with hammer. Every time it sounded like a gunshot when the stock u joints broke that poly.
Also I had issues with tight joints. The second rebuild I shaved down a couple c-clips to stop the joints from binding. When too tight I got bad and strange vibrations.
Now all is perfect!!
mattluttrell
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Can you pull the yoke out of your transfer case?
I've only done drive shafts and u-joints on my jeep. You can't pull the jokes and the u-joints have clips on the outside. I'm afraid to pull my rear if I have to mess with those clips behind my transmission.
I saw someone mention chasing. You a chaser? (I live in Norman, OK and we might have interesting weather on Thursday.)
I've only done drive shafts and u-joints on my jeep. You can't pull the jokes and the u-joints have clips on the outside. I'm afraid to pull my rear if I have to mess with those clips behind my transmission.
I saw someone mention chasing. You a chaser? (I live in Norman, OK and we might have interesting weather on Thursday.)
gettygatz4life
Full Access Member
Nice truck and a lot of work but truck is beautiful
SWSS
Full Access Member
Wow. Nice job.
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This was the front driveshaft, but I think the rear is similar. I had to pop off a rubber boot at the transfer case by hand. Then its a matter of unbolting the 2 straps by the front diff, pushing the shaft to the rear, dropping the now free front and pulling out of the transfer case.
I want to be a chaser
Unfortunately I live in VA so wifey and I need to plan a weekend drive when the storms are good. All this work has been to ensure I have a reliable vehicle.---------- Post added at 08:48 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:47 AM ----------
Thanks! She's prettier from a distance
---------- Post added at 08:49 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:48 AM ----------
It was a pain in the ass job. I did learn a ton though. Effing needle bearings...
More boring updates.
I fixed the drivers door molding that was peeling up and out. I first tried just some 20lb double sided tape by the molding was just pulling too hard, Next I took my time with a heat gun and softened the molding plastic, mostly shaped it flat and then stuck it on with more heat, massaging and whatnot. Time will tell if it holds.
I also replaced the drivers aspirator. You know that thing that buzzes like mad and pisses you off while driving? This is a common issue. I found that GM has gone through a number of designs for this part to fix this issue and older models are still for sale out there.
Here is the latest part. $22 at Amazon. "ACDelco 22834330"
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008B5TVC4/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Pull cover. See how much crap got pulled in? Remember how dirty my cabin filter was??
Pull visor off, pull off side trim. This gives you space to position the sensor to remove the harness.
Trust me. Just break the clip off with a long flat head screw driver to remove. I couldnt get my hands up under the head liner enough to release the clip. Here is the old VS new.
I fixed the drivers door molding that was peeling up and out. I first tried just some 20lb double sided tape by the molding was just pulling too hard, Next I took my time with a heat gun and softened the molding plastic, mostly shaped it flat and then stuck it on with more heat, massaging and whatnot. Time will tell if it holds.
I also replaced the drivers aspirator. You know that thing that buzzes like mad and pisses you off while driving? This is a common issue. I found that GM has gone through a number of designs for this part to fix this issue and older models are still for sale out there.
Here is the latest part. $22 at Amazon. "ACDelco 22834330"
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008B5TVC4/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Pull cover. See how much crap got pulled in? Remember how dirty my cabin filter was??
Pull visor off, pull off side trim. This gives you space to position the sensor to remove the harness.
Trust me. Just break the clip off with a long flat head screw driver to remove. I couldnt get my hands up under the head liner enough to release the clip. Here is the old VS new.
Last edited:
Welp, one horn is dead I realized. I had to honk today and wondered where the Vespa was. I think the low horn is dead.
*added to list
Just bought PIAA 85110 115db 400HZ + 500HZ Sports Horn, $50 shipped.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00067BWBI/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I think the low horn is dead.*added to list
Just bought PIAA 85110 115db 400HZ + 500HZ Sports Horn, $50 shipped.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00067BWBI/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I installed the new horn set. PIAA 400hz/500z Its different from stock, louder, good enough. I had to swap the high/low sides when mounting. The passenger was mounted on a screw next to the stock mounting point behind the passenger headlight. The drivers was zip tied in place above the stock horn since getting that horn out was more than I wanted to deal with.
An easy trick to install is to use the harnesses on the stock horns to make an adapter to install the new horns.
New VS Old. I can see why the old one was dead. East coast salt baby!
Pop top clip off old.
Prepare wires and then stick in holes. I then soldered them in place.
Harness complete.
Drivers horn in place. The adapter I made is long because I'm hoping for a better mounting point should I see it when crawling under the car.
Sound clip.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i6OCTOgtfcc
An easy trick to install is to use the harnesses on the stock horns to make an adapter to install the new horns.
New VS Old. I can see why the old one was dead. East coast salt baby!
Pop top clip off old.
Prepare wires and then stick in holes. I then soldered them in place.
Harness complete.
Drivers horn in place. The adapter I made is long because I'm hoping for a better mounting point should I see it when crawling under the car.
Sound clip.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i6OCTOgtfcc
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