2003 Yukon General Maintenance

[Wings720]

Did quite a bit of maintenance this past week.

-Fuel pump
-Front and rear diff fluid drain and refill
-oil change
-replaced washer bottle and pumps
-new wipers
-added 2 usb plugs in dash
-New battery.
-remote start

Front diff fluid had quite a bit of metal in it Prbly not good. Think she may be terminal.

I was 2 Qts low on tranny fluid; have a slow drip out of the return lines.

Radiator may be shot lol. Also need to replace one of the T’s on fire wall which is the coolant leak I’ve been chasing.

 

[Wings720]

 

[Wings720]

Sooo i made a big list of stuff I wanted to get done. Anyone have anymore suggestions? Also what do about the front diff just keep swapping fluid till it explodes? When I go from Park to drive or drive to reverse it sounds like the t case slams hard. There was minimal metal in fluid. Also does this when you stop accelerating and resume acceleration.

 

[bayareadude84]

Sooo i made a big list of stuff I wanted to get done. Anyone have anymore suggestions? Also what do about the front diff just keep swapping fluid till it explodes? When I go from Park to drive or drive to reverse it sounds like the t case slams hard. There was minimal metal in fluid. Also does this when you stop accelerating and resume acceleration.

Clean out your intake with a HARD detergent with PEA
Power steering vac out and replace new fluid
Brake flush
Check your rotors, pads, calipers
Fix your trans leak and replace with new trans filter and fluid
That "STOOPID" T-hose leak is very common have done 4 in last few years on my rigs
Coolant flush ??

 

[Wings720]

Working on all that this week and a few other issues. Have a weird fluctuating battery gauge I can’t pin down. Just got a remote start think he did some weird stuff. And a mode door actuator

 

[bayareadude84]

Working on all that this week and a few other issues. Have a weird fluctuating battery gauge I can’t pin down. Just got a remote start think he did some weird stuff. And a mode door actuator

Thats a bad alternator, Battery, Ground

Happened on my 01 Burb and turned out to be a bad autozone battery !! Luckily still under warranty !!

 

[DolphineasMcGee]

VERYYYYYYYYYYYYY GOOD LIST !!!!!!!!! I'm printing this out to remind myself when I pick up these rigs and the cop cars I flip

Another recommendation that I do with all my "new" fresh purchase vehicles in my fleet is a good oil flush treatment. Refill with new oil, drive for 500-1000 miles to "flush out" it out and then dropping the oil pan to clean out all the gunk and crap !! And while your at it a new oil pan gasket and o-ring oil pump for the pick up tube that ALWAYS fails and kills your oil PSI and can seriously mess up your engine !!

Napa auto has Berryman's oil change for under $6 !! Its no BG44K but its very good quality product !!


And another VERY VERY important part that pretty much pays for itself is a new fuel filter !!


Dave

View attachment 364035

What do you mean by "o-ring oil pump for the pick up tube that ALWAYS fails and kills your oil PSI and can seriously mess up your engine !!"?

 

[adventurenali92]

What do you mean by "o-ring oil pump for the pick up tube that ALWAYS fails and kills your oil PSI and can seriously mess up your engine !!"?

The bottom of the oil pan has a tube that picks up oil to bring it up to the top of the engine from the bottom of the pan. There’s a gasket type ring around the lower half of said pipe, and eventually with age and mileage on the engine it goes bad and doesn’t hold pressure as well. That being said I replaced the pickup tube and accompanying ring, while I was replacing the oil pan gasket and had it all apart. A new pickup tube and ring DID NOT improve my oil pressure. Exactly the same as it was before that whole
Job. It’s just one part in the system and replacing it may or may not improve oil pressure with replacement.

 

[nonickatall]

Sooo i made a big list of stuff I wanted to get done. Anyone have anymore suggestions? Also what do about the front diff just keep swapping fluid till it explodes? When I go from Park to drive or drive to reverse it sounds like the t case slams hard. There was minimal metal in fluid. Also does this when you stop accelerating and resume acceleration.

I would disassemble the calliper and push the pistons back until they are fully pushed back. Then brake until the are pushed out. Be careful not to push them out of the case. Repeat that 5-10 times. That is necessary, because in normal conditions the pistons only move a few millimetres and corrosion or dirt makes the piston stuck over the time.

A good tipp to do that. Remove one brake pad and reinstall the calliper, then you prevent the piston from falling out the calliper case.

 

[03yukXL]

I posted a similar thread a while back maybe it will help: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/so-you-want-to-buy-an-old-tahoe-yukon.141135/