2003 Yukon SLT flex fuel 5.3L whats brand would you use? cam, oil pump, lifters, timing chain

[SnowDrifter]

No worries, I did timing chain and water pump on my mountaineer and never had done it before. So far I have 1 timing chain and 2 timing belts under my belt. I am nervous on this one.
Lol

Naww you're good man. 45% of building an engine is checking tolerances like your life depends on it. The other 45 is following torque procedure to the letter

Oh and 10% not dropping your brand new pistons or rods or anything else on the floor

When in doubt, then it over by hand. Especiay before you get the heads on. It should turn smoothly with no rough or grabby spots. Once you get the heads installed, turn it over some more. You'll feel compression. If everything clears when running by hand it'll clear when running for real!

 

[Summajet]

I'm going to put motor on engine on stand and reassemble. Will ensure I can get the proper torque angles on heads. Makes lining up the timing cover/oil pan.. Thinking I will Install water pump on motor before putting back in truck. Machine shop said to turn bolt on crank couple times on engine stand and will ensure as you stated it is good to go. Only thing I will not install on motor prior to installing in truck will be the intake.
Should leave enough room to get to the transmission bolts to secure to engine. Any tips on installing motor back in??

Had read to angle transmission up some so the engine could be tilted in the rear allowing it to slide into the transmission?
I read many post that stating not to use the bolts to pull the transmission onto the block as it will break the transmission housing.

 

[Summajet]

I had have researched a lot and watched numerous youtube videos. I did see a guy TahoeSteve I think. He had a good video on how pump/prime oil into the block to prevent dry startups. Mentioned removing the Valley plug on drivers side in combination with a hf drill pump and then turn crank by wrench and prime oil pump.

 

[Rocket Man]

I had have researched a lot and watched numerous youtube videos. I did see a guy TahoeSteve I think. He had a good video on how pump/prime oil into the block to prevent dry startups. Mentioned removing the Valley plug on drivers side in combination with a hf drill pump and then turn crank by wrench and prime oil pump.

Melling has a video on that too.

 

[Summajet]

I will check that out too. Hoping the Jegs engine valley plate comes tomorrow. Makes it easier to get clearance up against the firewall when removing and installing.

 

[Summajet]

I received Jegs plate Thursday. I got motor out midday today and started cleaning it up. The harbor freight 1000 lb engine stand works great. Jacked up transmission and it came loose and took time getting it out

 

[Rocket Man]

I received Jegs plate Thursday. I got motor out midday today and started cleaning it up. The harbor freight 1000 lb engine stand works great. Jacked up transmission and it came loose and took time getting it out

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Nice. I’d love to build a motor from start to end. Someday.

 

[Summajet]

I'll trade you. Not something I wanted to do. But considering cost and labor for install something I have to do. Shop time of 21 hours at min $125 totals $2,625 in labor. I get it cost money and shop insurance, tools, and mechanic job cost. It is not easy and does not come cheap.

 

[Rocket Man]

I'll trade you. Not something I wanted to do. But considering cost and labor for install something I have to do. Shop time of 21 hours at min $125 totals $2,625 in labor. I get it cost money and shop insurance, tools, and mechanic job cost. It is not easy and does not come cheap.

Nope, it’s not cheap. In my case (hopefully) it would be different, I’d be building an engine specifically for horsepower and forced induction. I’d really like to build an 800-1000 hp engine for a NNBS Tahoe.

 

[Summajet]

Sounds like a project.
Got oil pan clean using easy off cleaner. Saw that on YouTube and follow up by cleaning with break cleaner