2005 Yukon with 193,000 miles

[Snogoers]

Hello! I'm new to this forum as I just looked at the above vehicle today and test drove. It is quite clean with slight wear on drivers seat which is probably normal and a little paint off on driver side rear quarter panel behind tire. It seems to run and drive quite well.

Here is the issue: The salesman took out a jumper pack to start it. He indicated that the after-market remote starter was causing issue with battery after it sat for quite sometime. I noted that they have had the vehicle since 6/1. Anyway, I didn't think too much about the issue. As I was on my way back to the car lot traveling at 35 mph on dry payment and temperature was in mid-30's, the Traction Control Inactive light came on in the dash. I then noted that the message center indicated "Service Stability" and "Service 4WD". So when I returned I mentioned this to the salesman. He said, "Yes, I believe it came in that way from the customer and they figured it was something electrical." They were selling it as is. I said that was fine but I would certainly like to know what the issue is before I purchased.

I left and said I would think it over. Anyway, the salesman called back and offered it at a lower price of $4200 as well as taking it to someone to have inspected. I couldn't line up anyone today so will do so tomorrow.

This is a really vague question but are there any typical electrical issues that may cause all of these symptoms: drained battery, T/C Inactive light, and Service Stability & 4wd messages? I have read some things on the internet pertaining to a ground wire at the rear of engine on firewall to a faulty switch on brake pedal?? I know codes are what would be requested but just don't have at this time. I would like to know possible least and worst case scenarios on this to know whether I should pursue or not. Thank you!

 

[Merc1973]

Could be something as easy as a bad wheel bearing hub and ABS sensor going bad. Too much of gamble for me to not pull the AbS codes and buy as is. I wouldnt go higher than $2500.

 

[TheAutumnWind]

Weak battery/bad grounds can cause a lot of weird error codes. Service Stability/awd/abs can come on due to very low battery. I dealt with that recently due to a failing alternator.

If its been sitting a long time it could just be an old battery... or it could have some sort of electrical gremlin that is slowly draining power all the time, and it could be a PITA to track down. I'd take the thing to a mechanic of your choice, not of their choice before buying.

 

[02Burgundybeast]

This^

 

[Snogoers]

OK. I test drove this vehicle again today. Cold and windy here 14 degrees with less than 0 windchill. The battery had been charged but slow to turn over and start. No lights or messages at this time.

I first took it to a shop to ask a few questions. I wondered if battery issue had something to do with the codes. They directed me to a auto parts business that sold the AC Delco Professional battery that was in this vehicle. I went and found out that it is a 30 month battery which was purchased in 2014. So it is still under warranty. However, they told me the warranty is good to the original purchaser.

i then drove to have the battery checked. It showed that it was testing at slightly under 300 CCA on this 700 CCA battery. So apparently needs replacement. As I was heading to have the battery checked, the T/C disengagement light came on again and had the same messages about Service Stability and Service 4wd.

So I went back to my mechanic who had a break to put his scanner on it. The following codes were pulled:

Anti-lock Brakes......Current Codes 0 History Codes 2 - C0283 - Mode Switch Circuit Fault & C0292 - PCM Lost Communication/VSES Sensor Circuit Fault.

Body Control Module......Current Codes 0 History Codes 1 - B3802 - Park Lamps Request Circuit Malfunction.

Door Module - Passenger.....Current Codes 0 History Codes 2 - C0750 - Left Front Low Tire Pressure Sensor & C0760 - Left Rear Low Tire Pressure Sensor.

Heating & Air Conditioning - Current Codes 2 - B0408 - Temperature Control 1 Circuit Malfunction & B0229 - Reciruclation Position Feedback Circuit Range/Performance. History Codes 3- B0408 - Temperature Control 1 Circuit Malfunction, B0414 - Termperature Control 1 Feedback Circuit Range/Performance, & B0229 - Recirculation Position Feedback Circuit Range/Performance.

Rear Auxiliary Climate Control.....Current Codes 3 - B3531 - Air Flow 10 Circuit Malfunction, B3764 - Air Flow Contol 4 Feedback Circuit Malfunction, & B0429 - Temperature Control 3 Circuit Range/Performance. History Codes 3 - same as current codes.

Seat Module........Current Codes 0 History Codes 2 - B2355 - Front Vertical Sensor Malfunction & B2375 - Driver Seat Assembly Horizontal Sensor Circuit Malfunction.

Tire Pressure Monitor.....Current Codes 0 History Codes 2 - C0750 - Left Front Tire Pressure Sensor Fault & C0760 - Left Rear Tire Pressure Fault.

Transfer Case......Current Codes 1 - B2725 - Active Transfer Case Mode Switch Fault. History Codes 1 - Same.

Mechanic who scanned vehicle said that some of these may have to do with battery issue/condition?? He indicated that the transfer case code was switch on dash?? This system has the Stability Control Disabled switch on top, AWD switch in middle, and 4WD low switch on bottom.

Thanks for reading this lengthy post! I wanted to get all the info I came up with out there to view for any suggestions or comments in moving forward on deciding on this vehicle.

 

[TheAutumnWind]

until you can eliminate which codes are from the battery and which are not (who knows maybe all of them are the battery? its possible) I wouldn't risk it. Thats a helluva lot of codes.

I can't believe that the saleman has not offered a new battery yet. Replace it, clear the codes and take it for another test drive and have the codes reread. Cycle all of the awd and hvac options.

 

[BigDaddy13440]

until you can eliminate which codes are from the battery and which are not (who knows maybe all of them are the battery? its possible) I wouldn't risk it. Thats a helluva lot of codes.

I can't believe that the saleman has not offered a new battery yet. Replace it, clear the codes and take it for another test drive and have the codes reread. Cycle all of the awd and hvac options.

This!

Tell the salesman to put in the BIGGEST CCA battery they can find, I'm pretty sure I've seen at least an 850CCA, if not a 1000CCA (had a 1000CCA Sears Diehard Gold in my old Blazer). They might balk at paying $150 vs $100, but tell them it may make a difference between you making an offer vs just walking away.....

 

[Snogoers]

Thanks for the comments. I will mention that to the salesman when he contacts me tomorrow or the next day. I know I mentioned in the first post that when I told about the "light" issue the sales manager said it is being sold "as is" at the price of $5995. I told them I understood but didn't want to get into something I had no idea what would cost to repair. After I left, the salesman called me back and said he talked to the sales manager and he would let it go at $4200 - basically their wholesale price. So that is his reason for balking on the battery issue. I did not disclose to him the codes pulled.

I understand their reason for not wanting to invest anymore time/money into it at that price. But I would think that a GM dealer would be able to warranty an AC Delco battery that is still under warranty regardless if their customer purchased or them. Heck, I would even replace the battery and bring back the old if I needed to do so! I do agree that without the new battery it is difficult to know what is actually real or battery related.

I will give my reasoning to salesman when I speak to him. I'm not sure why they have kept for 6 months and not sold through wholesale market??

 

[adventurenali92]

So Monday night my starter gave out. This is twice now within a year and a half that It's gone out and I've had to replace it. However I've learned that the Napa auto parts brand starter comes with a lifetime warranty because they go bad pretty often. Anyways, Monday evening as I was attempting to turn it over, it Went real slow and then didn't start. The next time I tried turning it over, it wouldn't and in the run position the check engine light came on as well as a service brake system message and a service stabilitrac message in the info center. It had never done that before. Turned off and ripped he started out. Luckily I was a two minute all from the store when it gave out and I had the receipt for the starter in my glove box so I walked it over and he had one in stock and swapped it out for me. Put the new starter in, rig started right up, no check engine light or service stabilitrac messages came on. It's been running fine since. No lights on since and I've driven about 100 miles in the last 2 days for work. So the symptoms you described could be starter related. You might have your mechanic check that as well.

 

[Martinjmpr]

Unless Yukons are rare in your area or unless there is something really, really special about this one, I would pass on it and try to find something that didn't have so many potential problems.

Unless you can get it for an absolute STEAL - and IMO, $4200 for a 12 year old Yuke with almost 200k on it is not that - I would say find something else.

For $2500 I might take the risk. For $4200? Well what you have to ask yourself is: What else could I buy for $4200?