2008 Tahoe..Rattle when turning right!

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OR VietVet

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Ok. So only way to tell if that’s it for sure is jack it up and see if the wheel has play in it?

That is how a shop would do it. A trained ear can tell during a road test but if you don't have that then you are asking us and this is what is recommended. Or you could wait till it goes completely out and leaves you stranded. That would cost you more. If that is what the problem is. Based off of "pattern failures" we hear about the bearing is likely it. Not a guarantee though. If I check it or Wade or James checks it or others here that know, we could guarantee it but we are not there. It could well be the sway bar links and that is less expensive. Look at a you tube for checking them to get a better feel for it. It may well be something else and is not a bearing or sway bar links.

If it is the bearing, get a Timken for replacement.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1119622&cc=1441040&jsn=2282

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1116832&cc=1441040&jsn=2284


Depending on 4wd or RWD.
 

iamdub

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If it is a wheel bearing, DO NOT CHEAP OUT and get a budget brand. It'll only cost you more in money and grief when it wears out way sooner than a good one. +1 recommendation for Timken.

Also, +1 check for broken sway bar end link as that's a common failure point and your symptoms very well point to that. There are aftermarket replacements that are much improved over the factory design, and they're cheap and easy to replace.
 
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Bsb120

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Alright guys, my wife got off early so she run it to a local shop and they say they want us to drop it off one day a d let them compress the suspension?? Never heard of that. But they said either a wheel bearing or a strut bad. I’m no mechanic but it’s very faint, I’m not sure either of those would be right. But I’ll definitely pull the whee off tomorrow. Assuming I can source a socket for the locking lugs someone put on there with the after market wheels ‍♂️ it’s not in the Tahoe that I can find. So one more time I just need to jack it up and shake the wheel at different points and see if I can duplicate the rattle? If so assumption would be bearing?
 

OR VietVet

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I would not suspect the strut at all. Does not mean I am right but I would not suspect it. The bearing and sway bar links can be checked without removing the wheel and you can see just a little of the back of the brake as well but to look good at the brakes and hardware you will need to remove the wheel. The compression of the suspension can be done just by driving it. They may be saying that to check the strut though. Whatever they say, make them supply pics, tell you what is bad and why in detail and report back here about all that.
 

iamdub

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Alright guys, my wife got off early so she run it to a local shop and they say they want us to drop it off one day a d let them compress the suspension?? Never heard of that. But they said either a wheel bearing or a strut bad. I’m no mechanic but it’s very faint, I’m not sure either of those would be right. But I’ll definitely pull the whee off tomorrow. Assuming I can source a socket for the locking lugs someone put on there with the after market wheels ‍♂️ it’s not in the Tahoe that I can find. So one more time I just need to jack it up and shake the wheel at different points and see if I can duplicate the rattle? If so assumption would be bearing?

Generally, when the wheel bearings go bad in these, the noise starts out as faint. But any noises from the bearings means it's bad an should be replaced ASAP and not wait until it gets louder. You don't need to remove the wheel to check them or the end links. In fact, you need the wheel in place to have grab points for leverage. You should locate and keep any special keys or sockets needed to remove the wheel BEFORE you're on the highway with a flat! In your checking, you may find that your noise is nothing more than loose lug nuts.

I'm NOT speaking for all shops, but I don't have much reason to trust any of them that I've had experience with. My most recent pertinent story is my dad in Florida who just got hosed for $1,700 (that he didn't have) and all I could do was sit back and watch it all happen. The shop that he trusts and has always gone to said he needed a $6,000 crate motor. I diagnosed a broken valve spring ($6 part) over the phone and said it'd take just minutes to pop off a valve cover to confirm. The shop originally told him they didn't know why he had no compression in one cylinder and listed off all the possibilities. When he called back to ask them to check the valve springs, THEN they said they "smelled coolant on the tip of the spark plug and the threads of the spark plug had an oily residue on it, so it's a blown head gasket". Oh, so now that he's asking questions they suddenly have a diagnosis?! They said since he's a loyal customer, they'd look under the valve cover for free (which took them three days, putting my dad further in the hole from his rental). He vanished for a few days then popped up out of nowhere, sending me a pic of the invoice and a broken valve spring. They charged him $50 for running the diagnostics (not disagreeing with the fee, but their diagnosis was wrong and reckless), $160 for the compression test (wouldn't that have been part of the diagnostics test for an engine brought in with a dead cylinder?), $62 for a valve cover gasket SET (they only opened up the one side that had the dead cylinder), and $70 for ONE valve spring. He needed brakes so they reamed him on the parts and labor for that as well. They knew he would just be happy that he didn't need a $6,000 motor for his truck that's worth maybe $2,000 at best and would pay the $1,700 with a smile.


Anyway, I apologize for the long-winded story but your post prompted a tangent. I'd be suspicious that a shop that finds loose lug nuts on a vehicle brought in by an uninformed person (especially if it's a woman) to be an easy sell for wheel bearings or more. It pays to do your own preliminary troubleshooting THEN tap in the pros once you've confirmed that it's something beyond your grasp. At least then you're not going to them half-cocked.
 
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Bsb120

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Thanks for the responses. I own a 2000 Toyota Tacoma that I do all my own work on. But never run into anything quite like this Mx the last rattle it had was a nerf bar loose. I don’t typically take stuff to shops unless it’s something I can’t handle but she was off early and they didn’t charge her to look at it so I figured it was worth a shot. I had a 2002 Yukon that had a quite horrible screech coming from the rear so I pulled the wheel to find a beer can wedged in there. But I’m either case I just don’t know much about these “newer” cars. In the morning I’ll jack it up and see if theres anything I can visually see wrong and start shaking stuff and try to find the noise. I’ll update if I find anything
 

OR VietVet

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Chris, I have stated here before about being a photographer when I was in the service and wanted to continue after I got out but work was crap. My uncle owned a repair shop in northern Ca. and I was there after service and he showed me how to diagnose and fix vehicles. I then moved back to KC, Mo., where I was from, and again no photo journalist jobs. My mom got ripped off during this time at a shop. I said, "to hell with this", I became a full fledged tech and took care of my mom's vehicles and worked on them till I took over and was a service manager. I always stayed very busy being honest with diagnostics and repair work. I hate hate hate rip off techs and shops.
 

iamdub

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Chris, I have stated here before about being a photographer when I was in the service and wanted to continue after I got out but work was crap. My uncle owned a repair shop in northern Ca. and I was there after service and he showed me how to diagnose and fix vehicles. I then moved back to KC, Mo., where I was from, and again no photo journalist jobs. My mom got ripped off during this time at a shop. I said, "to hell with this", I became a full fledged tech and took care of my mom's vehicles and worked on them till I took over and was a service manager. I always stayed very busy being honest with diagnostics and repair work. I hate hate hate rip off techs and shops.

I really don't like that this is even something that has to be forewarned about. It's an uncomfortable subject for me to write about because, at the same time, I know there are lots of honest shops and techs out there.

I understand shops have overhead to cover and all that. But jeeeeez. It's obvious they were trying to squeeze him from the start. My dad could've bought me a plane ticket there and back, ordered the valve spring and brake parts off Amazon or RockAuto or____, and I could've done the work and had some family visit time and he still would've saved roughly $400-$600.

At least the OP is a member here and is seeking info first (and getting great guidance). You couldn't put a solid value figure on the amount of money, hassle, heartbreak, time, etc. saved both directly and indirectly over time from forums such as this!
 

OR VietVet

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This forum is invaluable for myself and so many others here. We get so many correct diagnostics done here because of "pattern failures" we have seen or experienced. Helps shine a bright light on problems and repairs as opposed to the shadows/darkness of uncertainty.
 

ivin74

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I would get that thing up on some jack stands and try and wiggle the left tire by grabbing it at 12 & 6 and see how much play you have in it. If it only makes noise when turning right and going straight but not when turning left, classic symptoms of a bad wheel bearing. I would also check your sway bar links to make sure they are still intact. Could have one that is broke or lost a bushing and is rattling.


X2
 

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