2010 Burb Misfire

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solli5pack

solli5pack

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Hey all. Quick harmonic balancer removal question. I'm removing the balancer tomorrow and plan on using the shaved down stock bolt with the Chrysler removal tool method. So if I shave down the stock bolt then I won't be able to use it to put the balancer back on. I'm replacing the stock bolt with an ARP bolt so when re installing the balancer can I just do it with the new bolt and tourqe it down? Also I do not have and impact gun and was hoping to put it back on with brute force. I'm also completely terrified of somehow stripping out the crankshaft threads.
 

j91z28d1

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I've only done one ls and it wasn't the truck but I think it's the same?

what is the shave the bolt thing?

I just got the puller and installer off Amazon. I believe the puller is the Chrysler one. the installer was a cheap Amazon one just basically some all thread, a nut and washer lol. but it worked perfectly. if I remember right one was 20$ and the other 10? with next day shipping? something like that.

not having a tq wrench to hit arp spec is why I went oem bolt, plus super cheap. it just tightens by degrees and very long breaker bar. don't worry about stripping the bolt, I had 4ft bar on it and all I had to get it to the factory spec. it's proper tight. I'm guessing the arp is even better.
 

j91z28d1

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oh yeah, being automatic, you'll need a fly wheel holder if you don't impact it. mine was manual so the 6th gear and e brake held. they sell a thing that bolts in place of the starter to lock the engine so you can tighten the bolt.

might be another way thou.
 
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solli5pack

solli5pack

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I've only done one ls and it wasn't the truck but I think it's the same?

what is the shave the bolt thing?

I just got the puller and installer off Amazon. I believe the puller is the Chrysler one. the installer was a cheap Amazon one just basically some all thread, a nut and washer lol. but it worked perfectly. if I remember right one was 20$ and the other 10? with next day shipping? something like that.

not having a tq wrench to hit arp spec is why I went oem bolt, plus super cheap. it just tightens by degrees and very long breaker bar. don't worry about stripping the bolt, I had 4ft bar on it and all I had to get it to the factory spec. it's proper tight. I'm guessing the arp is even better.
Here's a video about the shaved bolt thing. I tried it today and it worked great.

The rods that come with the Chrysler puller that I rented from Autozone aren't long enough to get the balancer all the way off. I'm going to look into the installers tonight. Working on the oil pump now and gonna drop the oil pan to get some fresh RTV on the corners. Then onto the cam. Im almost at the point of starting to put parts back on instead of taking them off!!
 

j91z28d1

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ahh I don't remember that being an issue but cool that it works.
 
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solli5pack

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Oil pan and oil pump is off. There was a lot of coolant in the oil so the motor is all sludged up. Finally took out the lifter trays and the AFM lifters actually look pretty good. No real wear marks at all. For some reason the regular lifters don't want to come out so gotta deal with that tomorrow. Maybe they'll pop out when I pull the cam? My driveway is officially ruined.
 

iamdub

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Oil pan and oil pump is off. There was a lot of coolant in the oil so the motor is all sludged up. Finally took out the lifter trays and the AFM lifters actually look pretty good. No real wear marks at all. For some reason the regular lifters don't want to come out so gotta deal with that tomorrow. Maybe they'll pop out when I pull the cam? My driveway is officially ruined.

Spin the cam a couple times to push the lifters up. Don't remove the cam with the lifters in place. The cam being out can allow them to fall down/into the engine. Not really a problem with the oil pan removed, but they can still fall in places you'll have to fight to reach. Due to the tight tolerances and possible friction from water-thinned oil, they can be tight. They need to be pulled nearly perfectly straight out. I've always been able to slip 'em out by biting them with Channellocks and slightly wiggling and twisting while lightly pulling. You can try spraying a penetrating lube all around them and letting that seep in. Clean the lifter bores to pass a white glove (or paper towel) test before you slide the new lifters in. Be sure to soak 'em in fresh oil.
 
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j91z28d1

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they do sell a puller for those but like said they should just pull up.


I did see a clip one time where the roller pin came out and it hit the block and wouldn't pull out. had to come out the bottom but I doubt you have that. it's not very common
 
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solli5pack

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Can someone let me know if the camshaft phaser bolt is reusable? Getting conflicting info online. Also what's the tourqe? Thanks.
 

iamdub

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It being more than just a bolt and being a TTY design, I'd replace it if even for the peace of mind. The labor in accessing it far exceed its ~$70 cost.
 

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