Thanks Dub, that's all pretty much what I was thinking. I'll have to check on the ALC sensor - looks like to me it's roughly 2.5" ball to ball but I'll look closer. I'll have to get my head around what a longer or shorter one means based on what they're tied to - longer = higher or the other way around!
. I'll also see what people think of the electronic dampening - I'd be good without it unless people rave about it. Thanks again!
Simply put:
Lowered vehicle = shorter link, lifted vehicle = longer link
If you wanna picture it:
Vehicle is lowered, control arm swings upward, pushing sensor arm upward. Shorter link brings it back down towards the stock position
Vehicle is lifted, control arm swings downward, pulling sensor arm downward. Longer link brings it back up towards the stock position
I like the electronic damping when it's new and fully functional. But it quickly and easily fails. I've read of some reports of the shocks failing because someone raised the vehicle on a lift and it extended the shocks and somehow damaged them. Afterward, the vehicle rode like a wagon because the shocks were locked.
They're very expensive to replace and when I lowered mine, I had to get lowering struts and shocks so I disabled the system. I've driven well over 1,000,000 miles in vehicles with non-active damping and made it by just fine. There are millions of others with the same experience. The key is that you need struts and shocks that are a proper replacement for the electronic ones. Since you'll be lifted, you should probably get some that are a little firmer than stock to account for the higher roll center. Bigger companies have already done the R&D for you: Take Rough Country for example. Their struts and shocks come standard on the newer Z71 trucks. Maybe look for direct replacement struts and shocks for a Z71 Tahoe. To throw out a name, you can't go wrong with Bilstein.
