99 Yukon brake pedal becomes hard to press when braking suddenly. Power assist prob?

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MrSpicy

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Humm. Ok I didn't do that, basically just got it to barely grab and then slid it on. Sounds like it might be worth giving the rears a check. So sounds like what I need to do is put her in neutral so i can get the axle to spin, put the drum on with two nuts and spin it and adjust until I get some drag? Or what would be the procedure. Thanks.
 

SunlitComet

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leave it is park. it will just free spin within the axle. put a wheel on the opposite side you are doing to give the axle momentum when spinning it. do the adjustment as close as you can get to just making contact with linings. do the opposite side. then mount drums, press the brake pedal a few times to make sure the linings and springs have centered and seated in place so to speak. recheck one last time then mount everything up. then make a series of reverse stops to help the adjusters take over the job from that point on. if you happens to have backing plates with the adjuster holes knocked out then do all the manual adjustments with everything mounted, however chances are they they will not be knocked out. no clue on what was going on during manufacturing that they were not punched all the way thru.

---------- Post added at 01:14 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:01 AM ----------

also be sure to verify they gave you they correct mc and wheel cylinders for the vehicle application. 2dr vs 4dr, 10in vs 11in etc.
 
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MrSpicy

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I know that the wheel cylinders are the correct size since I had a great time running back and forth to the store having the buy different parts and getting stuck with ****** duralast shoes. Mine has the 11'' drums. Funny thing the 11'' uses the smaller wheel cylinders.

Is there any differences for the MC? From what I can tell they are all the same. Ill have to check the rear adjustment if I ever get the time that is.
 

SunlitComet

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there was differences in them to account for the variations in the multiple vehicle configurations. for example a vac booster mc for the hoe also fits c1500 trucks as well as many others, but when you take that truck and make it a 1-ton 4x4 dually crewcab that mc just ain't gonna cut it because the bore sizes have changed.
 
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MrSpicy

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Yeah I would assume that. But there shouldn't be differences in the Tahoe/Yukon's MC right? Just want to be sure that its the same MC for all Yukons or Tahoes regardless of options sine they all have basically the same drive-train setup.

Just want to eliminate that I didn't get the wrong MC. Basically what I'm saying is If its for this generation Yukon or Tahoe it should fit them all right?
 

SunlitComet

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nope there were different ones for different hoes.
give me the brake rpo code. will start with jb or jd and is three digits. it will help math things up way faster for me. also give me brand and part # of what you put on.
 
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MrSpicy

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Code was JB6


Cardone Select 13-2352 New Brake Master Cylinder

and

Cardone 54-71085 Remanufactured Power Brake Booster

Thanks
 

SunlitComet

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well assuming you don't have the police package you are good.

---------- Post added at 11:10 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:08 AM ----------

i think it really has something to do with the bleeding, rear adjustments or even perhaps maybe a component in the rear is not installed correctly. the rear ends will drive you to confusion real fast.
 
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Yeah they were a pain in my ass for sure. I may actually have the police package since when I had to get the larger 11" drums from Autozone they were listed under the police package. When I get some time I will check the back again and try some more bleeding.
 

MarkD51

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My 1997 Tahoe has the larger 11" Drums, and as I'm trying to recall, I don't remember having what was termed the "police package" per se, but since I ordered the truck with heavy duty suspension, the towing package, tranny cooling package, the whole shebang on all drivetrain-chassis upgrade options.

Perhaps this police package option was then included in these other options?

As for the back drums, I would assume once one is fairly close with drum shoe adjustments, then backing in reverse a number of times, and applying the brakes firmly should further adjust them. That is if there is no seizure of those shoe adjusters.

Some months back when I replaced my Booster, and did another Bleed, I did pop both Drums again, removed both adjusters, dis-assembled both, wire brushed, and applied a very light coat of anti-sieze on the threads, re-assembled and re-installed them.

About the only other thing I can offer, is the possibility of air still being in the system. And the likely culprit of the cause might be the ABS Unit. I know basically squat about the ABS, but do know there are special tools made for bleeding the ABS, and as well that a code can be pulled up-cleared I think also via the ECM.
 

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