Abs delete

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DallasTahoe

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Has anyone done it with success? From what I understand it’s not hard, I’m just wondering if it messes with any of the other systems, and if it stops your inspection from going through, really just want to have regular brakes. After having the abs bled now it’s just mushy sometimes, hard others, and I’m just tired of dealing with that... help?


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Doubeleive

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its as simple as pulling a fuse, brakes will work and revert back to normal operation, you'll just have a abs light on the dash
 
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DallasTahoe

DallasTahoe

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its as simple as pulling a fuse, brakes will work and revert back to normal operation, you'll just have a abs light on the dash

Really?! Can I pull the whole unit as well?? Of course plumbing it directly to the master cylinder


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Doubeleive

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Really?! Can I pull the whole unit as well?? Of course plumbing it directly to the master cylinder


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ya doing all that is a whole different story, unless there something aftermarket to throw in there I think everything made in the last 20 years+ is ABS
 

east302

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The ABS unit consists of the computer (Kelsey Hayes), the control valve (brake pressure modulating valve or something like that) which is underneath the computer and pulses the brake pressure and the combination valve on the side that the brake lines from the master cylinder thread into. It also has the pressure switch on it that activates when the front or rear brake circuits experience a pressure loss.

96861103a3757fd283bb60141b8a8b0f.jpg

Earlier versions (1994 or maybe 95 and earlier?) had a difference setup.

You'd need to replace/duplicate the combination valve in the new setup.

They sell them individually, a lot of older car owners install them when going from front drum to disc. Search for a proportioning or modulating valve or something like that.

I forget the correct names of the valves, but with a disc/drum setup, there has to be a delay in either the front or rear brake activation since disc and drum response times are different. I believe the drums have to be allowed to engage first else the discs would do all of the work.

The valve allows that to happen, so you wouldn't just pull the entire ABS unit and plumb it to the master cylinder without installing a new valve.
 
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DallasTahoe

DallasTahoe

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The ABS unit consists of the computer (Kelsey Hayes), the control valve (brake pressure modulating valve or something like that) which is underneath the computer and pulses the brake pressure and the combination valve on the side that the brake lines from the master cylinder thread into. It also has the pressure switch on it that activates when the front or rear brake circuits experience a pressure loss.

96861103a3757fd283bb60141b8a8b0f.jpg

Earlier versions (1994 or maybe 95 and earlier?) had a difference setup.

You'd need to replace/duplicate the combination valve in the new setup.

They sell them individually, a lot of older car owners install them when going from front drum to disc. Search for a proportioning or modulating valve or something like that.

I forget the correct names of the valves, but with a disc/drum setup, there has to be a delay in either the front or rear brake activation since disc and drum response times are different. I believe the drums have to be allowed to engage first else the discs would do all of the work.

The valve allows that to happen, so you wouldn't just pull the entire ABS unit and plumb it to the master cylinder without installing a new valve.

Ok good info, so until I get a proportioning valve can I just pull the 60amp fuse under the hood and it will supposedly revert it back to normal operation like the other guy said?


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