Another oil pressure saga!

[JKaechler]

On my 2011 Tahoe with roughly 200k on it, I have the classic symptom of low oil pressure after it warms up. I will be swapping the sensor and deleting the little screen this weekend, but i dont hold out much hope that will resolve it.

So, assuming i am moving onto the o-ring on the pickup tube: Do I need to plan to replace the oil pump while i have the pan off? Its a 4x4, so pan removal looks like it will be a pain, but not the end of the world.

if so, high volume pump? or standard pump? I dont race or anything, i bet the engine will hardly ever see more than 3500rpm.

 

[Dustin Jackson]

@JKaechler For the O-ring you just need to drop the steering rack, front diff, and oil pan. The oil pump shouldn't need to be replaced and would involve removing the front of the engine.

You should be able to drop the front diff only slightly to make enough room for the oil pan to slide out

 

[B-train]

I'd do the pickup tube and all the oil o-rings under the plenum on top. I wouldn't worry about the pump. My guess is it's justeakafe due to age and compression of materials

 

[B-train]

Geez....sorry about these darn fat fingers. Should read:

My guess is it's just leakage due to age and compression of materials

 

[JKaechler]

I'd do the pickup tube and all the oil o-rings under the plenum on top. I wouldn't worry about the pump. My guess is it's justeakafe due to age and compression of materials

o-rings under the plenum?

 

[B-train]

I believe they are called the VLOM. Others can correct me if I'm wrong. There are oil passages under the top engine engine cover below the plenum that activate the AFM. On non-AFM motors, there's just block off o-rings and a plate. I've done a few sets due to them weeping internally back into the valley causing lower oil pressure when hot.

 

[TollKeeper]

I am wondering the same as @B-train , wondering if its not just a failing VLOM actuator.

 

[JKaechler]

we are talking about this part?

https://www.amazon.com/Fel-Pro-MS-96871-Intake-Manifold/dp/B0033DNA5S/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1AGIC5066KXSB&keywords=MS96871&qid=1681420271&s=automotive&sprefix=ms96871%2Cautomotive%2C200&sr=1-2&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.18ed3cb5-28d5-4975-8bc7-93deae8f9840

to get to that, you take out the intake manifold and the valley cover below it?

 

[TollKeeper]

Kinda.... Below the oil pressure sensor is a port that provides oil to that VLOM setup..

When one of those actuators fail on the VLOM, oil bypasses it, potentially causing issues with the AFM/DOD.

On my 5.3 AFM/DOD, I plugged off that port to the VLOM (link below of what I used), and it completely corrected my Oil PSI issue, and I dont have to worry about the AFM/DOD as a plus.

Product Page | Crazed Performance R

www.crazedperformancerepair.com

Just had to get a tune to remove the AFM/DOD, and modified the VLOM, as instructed by crazed performance, to make sure it would not bother me again, hopefully!

 

[swathdiver]

On my 2011 Tahoe with roughly 200k on it, I have the classic symptom of low oil pressure after it warms up. I will be swapping the sensor and deleting the little screen this weekend, but i dont hold out much hope that will resolve it.

So, assuming i am moving onto the o-ring on the pickup tube: Do I need to plan to replace the oil pump while i have the pan off? Its a 4x4, so pan removal looks like it will be a pain, but not the end of the world.

if so, high volume pump? or standard pump? I dont race or anything, i bet the engine will hardly ever see more than 3500rpm.

Put two more quarts into the motor and then check the pressure idling or driving around. If the pressure stays up, it's the o-ring. If it does not, the problem is elsewhere.