anouther motor down thread...

[arb905]

I have a thread on here about my most recent misfortune with auto repair facilities. Anyhow, found a shop to sell me a Jasper replacement and I replaced the motor myself. Did the normal replacement and upgrades like water pump, fan clutch and did the new injectors. Motor is sitting in the engine bay bolted to the motor mounts. Monday will be the completion of the bolt up and connection of all of the electrical bits. Can't wait to hear it run.

What I was getting to, Jasper and GM have the same warranty, except.....Jasper has a call number if your motor has a problem while you are on the road, anywhere. They will tow to the nearest Jasper facility and replace the motor under warranty. And Jasper dyno runs all of their motors before they go out, for break in and to locate any problems.

If it is your motor, keep that in mind. Yes, I wanted to get the 383 for mine but I have another truck block that will get rebuilt soon (383) and put in my Nova. Maybe it will find it's way into the Kon once the Jasper warranty is up.

 

[dsltrc]

Ok so here's an update.... dropped the truck off to the dealer for diagnostics. They pull the tyranny back and started the motor... the noise was still there... so they think is the oil pump... and they wanted 8-900.00 to fix it... uhhhh no sir... it already cost me 175.00 for them to tell me its not the tranny or the converter.... so does.anyone know of a reliable oil pump? AND is there a simpler way to remove the oil pan other than taking apart half of the front axle? Could I raise the motor with a jack and block of wood somehow...

 

[SunlitComet]

mellens are good. Here is a '99 procedure:

REMOVAL PROCEDURE

1. Remove the oil level indicator tube. Refer to Oil Level Indicator and Tube Replacement.
2. Raise the vehicle.
3. Remove the engine oil and the engine oil filter. Refer to Engine Oil and Oil Filter Replacement.
4. Remove the oil filter adapter. Refer to Oil Filter Adapter and Valve Assembly Replacement.
5. Remove the starter. Refer to Starter Motor Replacement.
6. Remove the flywheel inspection cover.
7. Remove the engine mount through bolts. Refer to Engine Mount Replacement (2WD).
8. Raise and support the engine.
9. Remove the oil pan.
10. Note the location of any studs to assist reassembly.
11. Clean all the sealing surfaces. Refer to Oil Pan Clean and Inspect.
12. Remove the engine oil pan and the gasket.

INSTALLATION PROCEDURE

1. Install the engine oil pan and a NEW oil pan gasket. Refer to Oil Pan Installation.
2. Lower the engine onto the engine mounts.
3. Install the engine mount through-bolts. Refer to Engine Mount Replacement (2WD).
4. Install the starter. Refer to Starter Motor Replacement.
5. Install the flywheel inspection cover.
6. Install the oil filter adapter. Refer to Oil Filter Adapter and Valve Assembly Replacement.
7. Install the engine oil filter and the engine oil. Refer to Engine Oil and Oil Filter Replacement
8. Lower the vehicle.
9. Install the oil level indicator tube. Refer to Oil Level Indicator and Tube Replacement.

 

[dsltrc]

Is this applicable to 4wd models? And will the mellings m155hv version fit in our oil pans? Or should I just go with there m155 model both of which are available at my advance store

 

[SunlitComet]

It does not clearly say so but I am think it may be for a 2wd because the mention of engine mounts.

Here a '96 4*4 instruction set should be the same as'99 body:

Service and Repair NOTE: A one piece type oil pan gasket is used on these engines.

1. Disconnect battery ground cable.
2. Disconnect the oil level indicator.
3. Raise and support vehicle and drain the crankcase.
4. Remove front shield and front skid plate.
5. Remove the transmission oil cooler line from the bracket (automatic transmission only).
6. Disconnect the front propeller shaft at the front axle, please refer to Drive/Propeller Shafts, Bearings and Joints/Drive/Propeller Shaft/Service and Repair/ See: Transmission and Drivetrain\Drive/Propeller Shafts, Bearings and Joints\Drive/Propeller Shaft\Service and Repair
7. Remove two right side bolts and nuts and one left upper bolt and nut to remove the front axle from mounting brackets. It may be necessary to rotate the front drive axle forward and turn the front wheels to the left to remove the axle, please refer to Transmission and Drivetrain/Differential Assembly/Service and Repair/ See: Transmission and Drivetrain\Differential Assembly\Service and Repair
8. Disconnect strut rods at inspection cover,if equipped.
9. Remove exhaust crossover pipe.
10. Remove flywheel/torque converter inspection cover.
11. Remove the oil filter and adapter.

NOTE: On 1994-5 vehicles, it is necessary to loosen the transmission mounting bolts at the crossmember and raise the transmission enough to allow the oil pan to be removed.

1. Remove oil pan attaching bolts, nuts and reinforcements.
2. Remove oil pan and gasket.

1. Reverse procedure to install, noting the following:

• 1. Apply sealant to front cover block joint and to the rear crankshaft seal to block joint. Apply sealant approximately 1 inch in both directions from each of the four corners.
  2. Tighten oil pan attaching bolts and oil pan nuts in corners to the following specifications: 1994-5 Models, oil pan bolts 11Nm (100 lb. in.) and oil pan nuts 22Nm (16 lb. ft.) . 1996 Models, all oil pan bolts and nuts 25Nm (18 lb. ft.) .

---------- Post added at 03:44 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:40 PM ----------

I think they are all the same casting external size the cavities are bigger inside IIRC. You will definitely see a jump in you oil pressure then before with A 25% increase in flow.

 

[dsltrc]

I had both pumps in my hand and the high volume pump is def. taller which would put the pickup tube lower in the oil pan.... I'm going to have to find the high pressure version of the regular mellings pump. From my understanding it is just the spring inside that regulates the pressure.... BTW.. what is the benefits of using a high flow or high pressure vs a regular pump?

 

[retorq]

Stay away from Melling:

http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=65870

(seems that link is down and not cached anywhere, basically Melling thinned the walls of their casting resulting in broken pumps)

You really don't need or want a high volume or high pressure pump in a std small block Chevy. High volume CAN suck the pan dry if you run low, even if you aren't low if the oil isn't draining back fast enough you are gonna run into trouble. As for pressure more isn't always better. You only need 10PSI per 1000RPM. My Tahoe with 260K idles around 20ish PSI at 600RPM idle, it has 40PSI driving down the road at 2500RPM.

 

[stuntmanray385]

Stay away from Melling:

http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=65870

(seems that link is down and not cached anywhere, basically Melling thinned the walls of their casting resulting in broken pumps)

You really don't need or what a high volume or a high pressure pump in a std small block Chevy. High volume CAN suck the pan dry if you run low, even if you aren't low if the oil isn't draining back fast enough you are gonna run into trouble. As for pressure more isn't always better. You only need 10PSI per 1000RPM. My Tahoe with 260K idles around 20ish PSI at 600RPM idle, it has 40PSI driving down the road at 2500RPM.

i have a high performance oil pump so my idle is about 50 then it shoots up to about 80 when im driving...however when im comin to a stop it drops all the way down to 0 then goes back up a bit to about 40...

 

[dsltrc]

i have a high performance oil pump so my idle is about 50 then it shoots up to about 80 when im driving...however when im comin to a stop it drops all the way down to 0 then goes back up a bit to about 40...

Do u have any tricks to put the pump in...

 

[SunlitComet]

i have a high performance oil pump so my idle is about 50 then it shoots up to about 80 when im driving...however when im comin to a stop it drops all the way down to 0 then goes back up a bit to about 40...

It sounds like your pump is getting starved when applying the brakes. That is not a good thing.

---------- Post added at 09:32 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:30 AM ----------

Do u have any tricks to put the pump in...

I have one important note to add which I should have mentioned earlier: Do not reuse the oil pump drive shaft retainer. Always use a new one.