Best place to mount a brake controller

[992dr]

You could always find some rubber molding to wrap around the cut edge, to hide it

 

[PatDTN]

Yeah or high density black foam. So far it's just a snug fit and a little tape keeping it in place. When I cut the knee panel I used the metal behind to bend around for support instead of cutting it all away. I need to attach a couple of ears to screw the sides in place probably from the back side of the panel. Right now I have a little interference with the metal support hoop below the steering column that's keeping the angle off just a little. I guess I should take pictures and post.

When I drew out the hole I wanted I was thinking of mounting the click in bracket so I could pull it out. As I cut it out I realized I could mount it without that so the hole didn't need to be quite as large. I figure these panels are plentiful in junk yards and no other parts of the vehicle need to be modified for this.

 

[PatDTN]

Before everybody runs out the door for a panel to cut on take a phillips screwdriver and 10mm socket with a short extension. Probably need a 1/4" drive set for the clearance around the brake release lever.

 

[PatDTN]

Rough or not, here's a couple of pictures;




I'm going to clean this up some and push the controller back in a little more.

 

[Brian Wilson]

I like it. as for.straightening the edges, maybe a diamond file.on a Drexel and a steady hand? or some trim. I would probably cut the opening even bigger to allow use of a rubber corner trim. and maybe make it more rounded than square. that might fit the controllers contour better. a question on the brake controler, what does it do exactly and how is it installed? I never used one but it looks like my truck is set up for one. I have 2 12 gauge wires and 2 18 guage wires under my dash that aren't factory. and 2 screw holes in the typical brake controler location. is 4 wires enough for a brake control?

 

[PatDTN]

4 wires is plenty. The brake controller controls the amount of power to the trailer brakes. Trailer brakes are generally electric; more power means more braking. Electric trailer brake controllers use something like a pendulum internally to figure out how much braking force the vehicle is feeling to apply the right amount of power. There's usually a lever on the controller that lets you apply the trailer brakes manually either to test the brakes or in a situation where your vehicle is not stopping like you want.

Not too often any more the trailer brake controller tapped into a brake line to sense pressure to apply the trailer brakes (still electrically). Personally I like this method better for effectiveness but not for the risk of leaks.

If you want to tow but not use a brake controller for a heavy trailer there's surge brakes that use a piston linked between the trailer ball and the tongue to apply hydraulic pressure to trailer brakes. Problems arise with backing a trailer with those as the brakes tend to apply on the trailer if there's resistance backing (uphill, over a curb, whatever) and you don't have independent control over the brakes.

 

[Brian Wilson]

Thank you for the info. I probably don't need them then