Broken Motor Mounts

[swathdiver]

This is the mount for my truck: PN# 15840277

 

[007fl]

For the record,,,,, they havent fixed this as of 2013... My Yukon Denali had a broken driver side mount just a few months ago. I replaced them both (prob not necessary) for the lovely sum of $438.00. NOTHING I do with this truck would break a motor mount.

 

[sneasle]

Soooo, I went to do the motor mount replacement on mine last Saturday, and oh boy was that an exercise in frustration. We had planned on doing motor, transmission, and control arms that day, but we ended up only getting the driver side mount and the tranny mount replaced.

I'll say this, 4wd makes this a task that is not easily done. We had a bear of a time, even with wobble sockets, a large variety of extension lengths, and a two post lift, getting the driver side done. We didn't even attempt the passenger side as there was no way we could see to do it without pulling the exhaust manifold off, and we didn't have enough time or desire to deal with the potential issues with that.

I am heavily considering just letting a local shop do the passenger side mount at this point. I looked through the service manual it makes the passenger side mount look like a 4hr job all by itself.

*headdesk*

 

[kbuskill]

Soooo, I went to do the motor mount replacement on mine last Saturday, and oh boy was that an exercise in frustration. We had planned on doing motor, transmission, and control arms that day, but we ended up only getting the driver side mount and the tranny mount replaced.

I'll say this, 4wd makes this a task that is not easily done. We had a bear of a time, even with wobble sockets, a large variety of extension lengths, and a two post lift, getting the driver side done. We didn't even attempt the passenger side as there was no way we could see to do it without pulling the exhaust manifold off, and we didn't have enough time or desire to deal with the potential issues with that.

I am heavily considering just letting a local shop do the passenger side mount at this point. I looked through the service manual it makes the passenger side mount look like a 4hr job all by itself.

*headdesk*

Honestly, I wouldn't worry about the passenger side unless it was just torn to shreds... which i doubt it is.

The drivers side is the one that sees all the abuse as the engine torques over toward the passenger side. JMO

 

[tgui]

Honestly, I wouldn't worry about the passenger side unless it was just torn to shreds... which i doubt it is.

The drivers side is the one that sees all the abuse as the engine torques over toward the passenger side. JMO

I mostly agree.. buuuut my passenger mount was crushed which I attribute a bit to the quick destruction of a replacement drivers mount. Granted that was another OEM fluid filled mount and not a H3 mount as I'm rocking now.

 

[tgui]

Honestly, I wouldn't worry about the passenger side unless it was just torn to shreds... which i doubt it is.

The drivers side is the one that sees all the abuse as the engine torques over toward the passenger side. JMO

Duplicate reply.

 

[sneasle]

I mostly agree.. buuuut my passenger mount was crushed which I attribute a bit to the quick destruction of a replacement drivers mount. Granted that was another OEM fluid filled mount and not a H3 mount as I'm rocking now.

Thanks guys. I will end up doing the passenger side, but I’m not stressing over it.

 

[NathanS]

I’ve deleted DOD/AFM and installed a new stage 2 TSP cam. I installed AFP poly mounts and only notice a slight vibration but the trade off is well worth it. Very we’ll constructed but I would choose to paint my self.

 

[CrashTestDummy]

My wife and I replaced the driver's side motor mount on her Tahoe PPV with the Hummer unit. What a huge PITA that was! We pretty much have everything except a lift, but I doubt that would have helped much. Ended up pulling the inner fender liner, which helped. Probably should have pulled the steering column linkage, since it seemed that ALL of the frame bolts were pointing directly at it, making straight-on access impossible.

I purchased an engine support for this job, but soon discovered it was not wide enough to straddle the engine compartment, so we had to find other methods of supporting the engine. We lifted it by putting a floor jack under the cat, which helped a lot. Still, though, with the cat lifted against the body of the truck, there was _just_ enough room to Rubick's Cube the old mount out of there. The OEM mount heat shields REALLY get in the way when pulling bolts and trying to get the old, broken mount out. The Hummer mount, with it's abbreviated shielding almost fell in, compared to the trouble pulling the original mount out.

Took us almost 4 hours to do just that one mount! GM uses some sort of thread locker on the frame bolts, making removing them quite an exercise. Once we got the engine-side bolts loose we could remove them with our fingers.

After getting the driver's side mount in, we went over to the other side and lifted a bit on the passenger side cat. That mount looks fine. I may go ahead an order a replacement for it, just in case, but am in no rush to replace it.

The road trip verified that the 'thump' we heard/felt on acceleration was gone, and the shudder we felt while braking to a stop was also resolved. Broken motor mounts can cause all sorts of odd noises/behaviors.

We were also planning on rebuilding the front end on the Tahoe, but after wrestling the motor mount into place decided to take it to have the front end aligned to see if there are any issues with the alignment before tackling that job. If thy say it's shot, I may ask what they'll do that job for.

I'll have a couple of unused GM OEM mounts for sale soon. No way I'm using those things!

 

[Wolfbraid]

Thanks for the posts... ordered an H3 mount today, just one for the driverside now...
I'll contemplate if I'll put it in, or if I'll pay someone... no air tools, no lift...
Really gotta convince our mechanic at work, gotta figure out what kind of beer he likes.