Broken Motor Mounts

[Wolfbraid]

Well i just finished doing mine (07 4WD Yukon) Started at 3pm, I don't have the most organized tool box(seriously its a mess but I had everything)
I have two little distractions(4 and 7) running around, finally got the original mount out at 10pm, have it all buttoned up by 11pm, Put in the H3 mount, it practically fell into place, I had to disassemble the factory one to get it out, the heat-shield is a pain.

This isn't really a how to, because I didn't really follow one set of directions.
Removaleverything is 15mm)
3 frame bolts can be accessed from above(or wheel well)
4 engine block from below with creative extensions and swivels.(you can sneak an extension in some tight spots)

I jacked up from the reinforcement plate but also backed it up with a ratchet from above.

I didn't touch the diff, I removed the steering linkage(only firewall end would come off, if I got the whole thing out it would have be a little easier)

OEM mount still stuck in there, I flipped the OEM mount over, removed the two 15mm on the mounting plate, and took out the plate, heat-shield and then the mount.

Installation, the H3 mount just wiggles in, took a couple tries to figure out which side to put in first, then it almost drops right into place.
Reverse,
Hand threaded all 4 block bolts, and frame bolts.
2 of the block bolts can be tightened from wheel-well, the other two have to be tightened from underneath(at least with the tools I have)
all 3 frame bolts are easy to access from wheel well, front one needed final tightening from above

 

[Richard Blakely]

So I just returned from my mechanic after a routine oil change and he shows me I have a cracked drivers side motor mount!!!! WTF... I mean seriously GM? You would think they would install a strong enough motor mount for what people use these SUV's for. My mechanic ony works with GMC and Chevy's and he said he is noticing this often.

Has anyone else experienced this problem?

Oh and cause where it is located, not the cheapest of repairs either..

 

[Richard Blakely]

My 07 tahoe was severely jerking when accelerating from a stop. Suspected u joints but we’re checked fine. Talked to another Tahoe owner who experienced the jerk, and said the motor mounts need replacing to fix. Sure enough, the new motor mounts fixed it

 

[Bigkevschopshop]

Looks like I just joined the broken mount club. They are on their way out. Rough vibration at idle steadily gotten more pronounced. Last time I was at the dealer they said they were ripped but not broken yet. They are on that downhill fast. Waiting for cooler temps to do at least the drivers. Question how much more noticeable is the idle w h3 mounts? I know some say “seat of the pants”. I feel mine now mostly in steering wheel but don’t want to feel that shit. Got cammed vehicles for that sensation.

 

[kbuskill]

Looks like I just joined the broken mount club. They are on their way out. Rough vibration at idle steadily gotten more pronounced. Last time I was at the dealer they said they were ripped but not broken yet. They are on that downhill fast. Waiting for cooler temps to do at least the drivers. Question how much more noticeable is the idle w h3 mounts? I know some say “seat of the pants”. I feel mine now mostly in steering wheel but don’t want to feel that shit. Got cammed vehicles for that sensation.

I have H3 mount on drivers side and standard hydraulic mount on passenger side... I don't notice a difference from stock.

 

[iamdub]

I think if you can feel it depends on how smoothly your engine idles. Some idle smooth as silk (mostly well-maintained Gen3s) and others feel like they have an intermittent miss (a lot or most of Gen4s). Even if you can feel the slight difference in idle, it still feels much better than the clunk of a blown hydraulic mount. It's also much more comfortable than ripping open old scars when you end up replacing the hydraulic one a second or third time. Do it once and be done with it. I have no qualms with my H3 mounts.

 

[tgui]

My Gen IV 6.2 as a lumpy idle stock. I feel just a tad more vibration with the H3 mounts at idle over the stock mounts. Driving there is no difference.

 

[Wolfbraid]

I have H3 mount on drivers side and standard hydraulic mount on passenger side... I don't notice a difference from stock.

My H3 mount feels 1000X smoother than the broken one, not sure what stock felt like.)

 

[Meccanoble]

Just changed to H3 Hummer and my goodness, I love my truck again. I havent driven hard in so long, I forgot it had a V8. Just wanted to share some feedback on the process.

First, I planned to take off that steering stick thing but it would not come out for me. I didnt want to force anything. Looked at a video where someone just pulled up on one side but mine seemed to move but not enough to seperate. Wasted time.

I have the AWD so front DIFF was definitely in the way and prevented any work from underneath. I ended up taking the back half of the driver wheel for a different angle access but was able to do most of the work from above. Without removing anything besides the plastic rear well (dont even have to remove rim/tire), you can squeeze the mount out from the wheel well if you unbutton a connection or 2 or just hold them out the way. I had to unbolt the old one to make it 2 pieces to get it out. The stock Tahoe mount is definitely bigger than the H3 Hummer one, not just the aluminum part. I squeezed it in from same location as 1 piece successfully. BTW, I did not see an option where you could even seperate the H3 mount like you can on the Tahoe stock mount.

The hardest part seemed to be unbolting and installing the part of the mount farthest away from the front. But you dont need any special tools to do it from up top. Took a lot of patience to get that side done and was able to fully tighten from the wheel well side, not the top.

I was looking for more vibration or issues with this mount but seems very normal especially when you have been living with a bad mount for so long. Night and day difference! Best part, I dont have to worry about this being an issue for a very long time.

 

[Rocket Man]

Just changed to H3 Hummer and my goodness, I love my truck again. I havent driven hard in so long, I forgot it had a V8. Just wanted to share some feedback on the process.

First, I planned to take off that steering stick thing but it would not come out for me. I didnt want to force anything. Looked at a video where someone just pulled up on one side but mine seemed to move but not enough to seperate. Wasted time.

I have the AWD so front DIFF was definitely in the way and prevented any work from underneath. I ended up taking the back half of the driver wheel for a different angle access but was able to do most of the work from above. Without removing anything besides the plastic rear well (dont even have to remove rim/tire), you can squeeze the mount out from the wheel well if you unbutton a connection or 2 or just hold them out the way. I had to unbolt the old one to make it 2 pieces to get it out. The stock Tahoe mount is definitely bigger than the H3 Hummer one, not just the aluminum part. I squeezed it in from same location as 1 piece successfully. BTW, I did not see an option where you could even seperate the H3 mount like you can on the Tahoe stock mount.

The hardest part seemed to be unbolting and installing the part of the mount farthest away from the front. But you dont need any special tools to do it from up top. Took a lot of patience to get that side done and was able to fully tighten from the wheel well side, not the top.

I was looking for more vibration or issues with this mount but seems very normal especially when you have been living with a bad mount for so long. Night and day difference! Best part, I dont have to worry about this being an issue for a very long time.

Awesome news.