Broken Motor Mounts

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Qman

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I agree with you glenn5437 that it's a design fault. There should be at the very least some kind of an acknowledgement along with a suggested remedy. But as we have all seen that's not the case and the consumer has to suffer.

I have also been heavily involved in motor sports for many years and agree that these motor mounts should not be failing so frequently. Like I mentioned before, I used the original motor mounts from my 86 Corvette because they were still good even though those early C4s were torque monsters on the bottom end. I frequent the Corvette forums and I don't remember anyone complaining about the motor mounts.

Anyway back to my original question. What I have found out so far is that in essence there are no better after market mounts available. So that means I am stuck with putting on another OEM set. Checked with a local mechanic shop that I know and they said that they have changed many already and that I should stick with the OEM mounts because the after market ones fail quick. They highly recommended that I change the transmission mount also at the same time. They learned the hard way after a client returned very upset.

Who knows may have to to the old chain link trick that I had to do on my 67 Camaro.
 
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glenn5437

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Qman , Have you replaced one yet? The second I read you had to remove the exhaust manifold I shuddered and called my local GM dealer. I have a account for parts so it looks like $103.00 for the mount and I think the service manager quoted me 286.00 labor, I will confirm today ($400.00 Merry Christmas !!)
 

Qman

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glenn5437 no I haven't done it yet. I'm ordering online the parts this week . Just read alldata diy and your right, it calls for the passenger side exhaust manifold to be removed. Not crazy about doing that, my luck i will bust a bolt. When I looked at it earlier, I did think that I would have to remove the exhaust manifold shield at least for clearance. I'm going to use swivel sockets for the motor mount bolts. I think the problem will be in removing the mount from the area, may not have enough clearance in pulling it out from the area.

I'm going to check with the guys at the shop that has done them before and see what they recommend.
 

glenn5437

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Thanks, but why the passenger side manifold is that the side for the broken mount?
 

Qman

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I'm going to change both sides along with the transmission mount to be on the safe side. Drivers side motor mount is definitely gone, you can hear the clunk and see the motor raising from that side.
 

security6

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I've got the same issue on my 2007 Yukon XL Denali. I'm considering replacing the driver's side motor mount myself.

One concern is supporting the engine without jacking on the oil pan (manual advises against due to concern of damaging oil pump pickup). How are you supporting the engine while you pull the mount? From above with an engine hoist? Is there somewhere below where you can safely jack the engine?
 

glenn5437

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You would think if you used a 2x4 and located it on the edge on the verticle you could take the load off mount ??

Anyway I went to the local Chev Dealership yesterday, Labor Charge was shown at @$ 236.00 he said GM must be "recognizing" problem!! (NOT A RECALL YET) My part price was about 103.00 for mount because we have a parts account for our race car stuff. (For 236.00 they can have it!!) it sounds like a knuckle busting Job!!
 

Qman

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glenn5437 sorry I didn't get back with you yesterday. Got tied up at a Harley dealer buying a new toy. Just went to look and Oh Oh, rode a bike home.

I was able to go to the shop today and ask. They said that they don't remove the exhaust manifold. Its a little tight to remove the passenger side mount but its doable.

---------- Post added at 08:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:37 PM ----------

security6 my manual says to remove the generator bracket, loosen the mount bolts and lift engine with a screw type jack. the lift point is a (looks like) tab that's on the block that's just below the heads and several inches from the top motor mount bolts towards the front of engine.

Hope I didn't confuse you here. Just trying to describe the position shown on the diagram that's on Alldata diy.
 

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