Catalytic Converter...

[OR VietVet]

Does my heart good to hear you changing out u-joints while the driveshaft is out. Might as well. Good call. I have no idea what the torque spec is for the nuts on the studs because I never did that. I just tightened them good and tight with the anti-seize on there and made sure the gaskets looked good at the same time. You did get gaskets, right?

 

[mijohnst]

George, do you think that a grade 8 nuts from Home Depot would be good? How about using a lock washer? I don't think adding one of those would hurt but then again, I don't know. I know to stay away from stainless steel on anything exhaust related.

Ron, I see I'm going to have fun trying to get that factory plastic pressed u-joints out. lol The new ones I purchased form Rockauto are the kind with the grease nipple. I did order gaskets off Amazon a day after I bought the catalytic converter you recommended because I hadn't realized it didn't come with two of them. It did come with the gasket on the left side, however. For the first time ever, Amazon lost my order and my parts never arrived so I've had to reorder the one gasket for the right side...so I have to wait until Saturday. There isn't a gasket for the muffler connection, correct?

 

[BG1988]

Was installing that Flowmaster muffler a big deal? I'm looking for a youtube but haven't found any installs howtos yet. That either means I need to take it somewhere for welding or it's so easy that nobody would need to make a how-to for it.

don;t let the shop have the old one they are worth a pretty penny as the price as skyrocketed on the metals used in them you can get 250$ for a scrap one

 

[George B]

George, do you think that a grade 8 nuts from Home Depot would be good? How about using a lock washer? I don't think adding one of those would hurt but then again, I don't know. I know to stay away from stainless steel on anything exhaust related.

Ron, I see I'm going to have fun trying to get that factory plastic pressed u-joints out. lol The new ones I purchased form Rockauto are the kind with the grease nipple. I did order gaskets off Amazon a day after I bought the catalytic converter you recommended because I hadn't realized it didn't come with two of them. It did come with the gasket on the left side, however. For the first time ever, Amazon lost my order and my parts never arrived so I've had to reorder the one gasket for the right side...so I have to wait until Saturday. There isn't a gasket for the muffler connection, correct?

The grade 8 nuts are good. No real meed for lock washers.

you will need to use heat to get those U-Joints out.

 

[OR VietVet]

George, do you think that a grade 8 nuts from Home Depot would be good? How about using a lock washer? I don't think adding one of those would hurt but then again, I don't know. I know to stay away from stainless steel on anything exhaust related.

Ron, I see I'm going to have fun trying to get that factory plastic pressed u-joints out. lol The new ones I purchased form Rockauto are the kind with the grease nipple. I did order gaskets off Amazon a day after I bought the catalytic converter you recommended because I hadn't realized it didn't come with two of them. It did come with the gasket on the left side, however. For the first time ever, Amazon lost my order and my parts never arrived so I've had to reorder the one gasket for the right side...so I have to wait until Saturday. There isn't a gasket for the muffler connection, correct?

There will be a gasket at all 3 connections. Anytime you have a flat flange connection, there should be a gasket. No need for the lock washer. Recheck nut and bolt tightness after a few drives and come to full heat.

Like George said, the old u-joints need to be heated to melt that plastic collar that is holding the joint caps in place. Look for and watch 2-3 you tube videos to see how it is done. Do not look straight down at the cap when heating. I have seen them be under enough pressure that when the heated plastic lets go that cap can pop out of there.

 

[mijohnst]

don;t let the shop have the old one they are worth a pretty penny as the price as skyrocketed on the metals used in them you can get 250$ for a scrap one

$250 for scrap? Really? That's almost more then I paid for the new ones. lol

 

[OR VietVet]

If that would create a problem for you, I will gladly accept that $250 check so you don't have to look at it.

 

[George B]

There will be a gasket at all 3 connections. Anytime you have a flat flange connection, there should be a gasket. No need for the lock washer. Recheck nut and bolt tightness after a few drives and come to full heat.

Like George said, the old u-joints need to be heated to melt that plastic collar that is holding the joint caps in place. Look for and watch 2-3 you tube videos to see how it is done. Do not look straight down at the cap when heating. I have seen them be under enough pressure that when the heated plastic lets go that cap can pop out of there.

And one of these is great for doing U-Joints nut not necessary.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/4-in-1-B...0wLWlgNzhAA5eR87RYopiuZwptDFiTZIaAvVGEALw_wcB

 

[Wylie_Tahoe]

A quality thread chaser should not remove any material, unless a crest is flattened into the thread root, but will not cut the root deeper or the crest of the down. I would not use a thread cutting die.

Anti-seize will actually yield a more accurate torque as it relieves the friction between the stud and nut.

 

[OR VietVet]

And one of these is great for doing U-Joints nut not necessary.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/4-in-1-B...0wLWlgNzhAA5eR87RYopiuZwptDFiTZIaAvVGEALw_wcB

Those are very handy tools. Have used them many times.