Dan's ratty truck

[Dantheman1540]

Well I'm still waiting on the engine to come back parts have been hard to find and the machine shop is backed up.

I did however find a 9.5sf 14bolt from a 1990 K1500. This is NOT the common AXN RPO code axle like I have in my Tahoe and what came in NNBS trucks with the 6.2. The AXN axle has smaller outer bearings and a few other things that make it slightly lighter duty than this axle. Plus I didn't want to have to cut all the link brackets off a SUV axle when it will be getting leaf spring perches.

Current build plans:

- Keep the 3.42 gears (Regear my front diff to 3.42s)
- Detroit TrueTrac
- Disk brake swap from someone like https://lugnut4x4.com/product/14-bolt-6-lug-semi-float-disc-brake-conversion-kit/
- Leaf spring perches relocated with a kit like this https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/14BSS.html
- Have my ladder bar axle bracket welded on and possibly a full truss
- Bling bling diff cover with girdle http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_1803
- Paint the axle
- Burnouts!!!!!!

Cost so far:

- Axle: $170

 

[Dantheman1540]

Some other smart people on pt.net suggested that disk brake conversion kit I linked above is kinda junk with tiny calipers and rotors. So I decided I'll go the route of bolting factory GMT800 disk brakes using a spacer like this.

Guess I will be on the lookout for a good deal on NBS disk brakes if anyone has some

https://1320wheels-com.3dcartstores...S-10-Bolt-Brake-Conversion-Spacers_p_105.html

 

[Dantheman1540]

Tearing stuff down is supposed to be the fun part because it doesn't cost anything.

However had a hiccup pulling the carrier out. Grabbed my 10mm ratchet wrench to remove the pin retaining bolt and the bolt came loose suspiciously easy. Somehow it broke, no idea how but I never put much force on it so it must have been broken before. Thought I'd have to drill the entire thing out but luckily it came loose after about a 1/4" of drilling and I worked it out.

That drama was over and the c clips fell right out which the revealed something interesting on the pinion. I assume this rear end has been messed with before because theres etching on the pinion. No idea what it means but somebody has had their hand in my rear end before. .

Also beat the drums and crap off it but got tired and quit before getting the brake lines ground off.

And lastly I noticed some odd marks on the spider gears. Looks like cracks were welded and then ground smooth maybe? Idk what do y'all think?

 

[Rocket Man]

Tearing stuff down is supposed to be the fun part because it doesn't cost anything.

However had a hiccup pulling the carrier out. Grabbed my 10mm ratchet wrench to remove the pin retaining bolt and the bolt came loose suspiciously easy. Somehow it broke, no idea how but I never put much force on it so it must have been broken before. Thought I'd have to drill the entire thing out but luckily it came loose after about a 1/4" of drilling and I worked it out.

That drama was over and the c clips fell right out which the revealed something interesting on the pinion. I assume this rear end has been messed with before because theres etching on the pinion. No idea what it means but somebody has had their hand in my rear end before. .

Also beat the drums and crap off it but got tired and quit before getting the brake lines ground off.

And lastly I noticed some odd marks on the spider gears. Looks like cracks were welded and then ground smooth maybe? Idk what do y'all think?View attachment 254660 View attachment 254661 View attachment 254663 View attachment 254662 View attachment 254664

That looks like wear marks from the teeth engaging/disengaging to me. I can’t imagine anyone welding the spider gears, they’re not that expensive.

 

[Dantheman1540]

That looks like wear marks from the teeth engaging/disengaging to me. I can’t imagine anyone welding the spider gears, they’re not that expensive.

You are probably right anyone that would be poor enough to not replace spider gears is likely not able to lay such a perfect bead that it doesn't interfere with the gear mesh or just break right off. Just struck me kind of odd because it almost appears like a row of dimes from a pro.

Anyway counted the ring and pinion teeth this morning and it looks like it has 3.73s not 3.42s (41ring teeth/11pinion teeth=3.7272727272..... aka 3.73).

Either way I'll find a matching front diff to trade for my 4.10s and enjoy a little better OD on the highway.

 

[PG01]

My 2 cents? Sure I’ll share it, glad you asked... lmao.
Looks like the bottom of the pinbolt slamming into it ..... shmaybe the first one broke, which prompted a look see, pieces were pulled out and a new one was installed, yet over torqued, hence you breaking it upon your purchase and subsequent removal of said pin bolt....
Pretty good detective-ing huh?

lmfao

 

[Dantheman1540]

My 2 cents? Sure I’ll share it, glad you asked... lmao.
Looks like the bottom of the pinbolt slamming into it ..... shmaybe the first one broke, which prompted a look see, pieces were pulled out and a new one was installed, yet over torqued, hence you breaking it upon your purchase and subsequent removal of said pin bolt....
Pretty good detective-ing huh?

lmfao

I always welcome opinions and theories!

Sounds like a good theory but doesn't fully explain the hieroglyphics on the pinion which are really irrelevant but fun to theorize. Gonna do some more digging into the donor trucks vin and service history.

 

[Dantheman1540]

New theory for the brake swap. So when I did the Hybrid 9.5sf in my Tahoe I ended up using the original 10bolt brake backing plates because the 9.5 backing plates had a slightly larger diameter heat shield and it wouldn't allow the rotor to seat completely. Therefore I put the 9.5sf backing plates back on the 10bolt and gave it to a neighbor who ended up throwing it in his scrap pile and not using it for a 4x4 project like he promised.

Long story short I need a set of backing plates to put disk brakes on this rear end so I think I will go steal those back from my neighbor (granted its still in the heap) and then order a set of rear disk brakes for a 2011 Denali.

Things to figure out:
-Is there any difference between brakes for a 2011 Denali with a 10bolt vs with a 14bolt?
-How the heck will I figure out keeping the E brake.
-Whats everbody's favorite NNBS rear brake setup?


*Edit*
-According to Powerstops website there is no brake caliper, rotor, or pad difference between NNBS SUVs with a 10b or 14b

-However according to Powerstop there is a difference between NBS and NNBS rear disk brakes which seems obvious, but the difference is only the rotor itself not the pad or caliper.


Not that this is really useful info but info it is.

 

[Rocket Man]

I know the NBS have a 1” larger diameter rear rotor than the NNBS. Consensus is the best setup is NNBS fronts with NBS rears at least for a NBS truck.

 

[randeez]

Pretty good detective-ing huh?

youve got a gift alright....


looks like the pinion says LH100 = left hand? meaning rear gear cause a front 9.25 needs a RH iirc
then 11x41 under is for the teeth count
guessing the other etching is prob just who ever built it, they put some shit on there so if you blow it up and bring it back to them they can confirm that no one messed with it, shims used something like that

the teeth looks like they ate something


nnbs 10bolt and 14bolt I swapped my rotors and calipers over when i swapped, but you'd prob need to know how far from the end of the axle tubes to the axle flange is to see if you could use all of the hardware