DOD FAILED. CAM THOUGHTS

[decembersend]

You cannot increase torque down low or even keep it and gain horsepower on high without losing driveability. Keep duration under 210 degrees for a street truck and to maintain low end torque.

I am assuming this is a 5.3 and not a 6.2.

It’s the 6.2.

What would you recommend? I mean at the end of the day it’s not a race truck it’s heavy AF. So it would be nice to gain on the top but if not it is what it is.

 

[Foggy]

That 214/228 cam is a little "big" for a stock application...
I think comp makes a vvt cam that's one size smaller...
Also check out Gwatney performance. They have some VVT truck cams that
have caught my interest. I haven't decided on a cam yet, because I'm not sure
I'm going to keep my supercharger with stock or stroker ci yet... But I DO want to
keep VVT (of course deleting DOD)

 

[iamdub]

Sorry I guess I have to update my bio.

It’s a 2010 GMC Yukon Denali 6.2

Ah- 6.2. I retract my statement about being too big. That's not bad at all for a 6.2. The exhaust duration seems to be hefty, but that might be part of the VVT design and LS engines typically need a little help on the exhaust side. I'd say it's on the border of being out of a stock converter's grasp. So, probably not much left on the table, and that's a good thing. The lift isn't so high and the LSA is a reasonable 114°. The 6.2 has an SCR of 10.4, so you're good there. You're gonna need a good tuner to make the most of it while minimizing any potential losses.

Depending on what you tow and how often, you still might wanna look into something a little smaller. Just know that gaining low-end torque isn't gonna be hand-in-hand with top-end pulling power. Mine has a much stronger top end but the raised compression, tightened quench, aggressive spark timing and, most importantly, a great stall more than makes up for any low-end loss.

 

[decembersend]

Ah- 6.2. I retract my statement about being too big. That's not bad at all for a 6.2. The exhaust duration seems to be hefty, but that might be part of the VVT design and LS engines typically need a little help on the exhaust side. I'd say it's on the border of being out of a stock converter's grasp. So, probably not much left on the table, and that's a good thing. The lift isn't so high and the LSA is a reasonable 114°. The 6.2 has an SCR of 10.4, so you're good there. You're gonna need a good tuner to make the most of it while minimizing any potential losses.

Depending on what you tow and how often, you still might wanna look into something a little smaller. Just know that gaining low-end torque isn't gonna be hand-in-hand with top-end pulling power. Mine has a much stronger top end but the raised compression, tightened quench, aggressive spark timing and, most importantly, a great stall more than makes up for any low-end loss.

I’m going to try and get it to fasterproms in Tampa, FL for a tune. From Videos I’ve seen of his escalade he seems to know how to tune these things.

I don’t tow that often but when I do it’s a 16ft enclosed box trailer and stock she pulls it pretty nice. So I want to keep it that way or better.

I have to admit I’m new to cams and what your saying is over my head, but I can take things apart and put them back together lol. My buddy is a diesel mechanic so if I get stuck I’m sure he’ll help.

Thank you for your input

 

[swathdiver]

It’s the 6.2.

What would you recommend? I mean at the end of the day it’s not a race truck it’s heavy AF. So it would be nice to gain on the top but if not it is what it is.

I did a lot of research for 5.3s and none for the 6.2 yet. Someday I'll put a cam in the Sierra. Almost all of the camshafts I've seen trade torque down low for more horsepower on top, they move the power band up, way up, 5.3 motors losing 60 foot pounds of torque down low where a truck needs it. These aren't cars we're driving or regular cab pickups that weigh a little more than a Camaro but a thousand or more pounds over a regular cab or Camaro.

@iamdub is a smart fella and off the top of my head, @randeez and @Geotrash have put camshafts in their 6.2 Yukon Denali motors.

 

[91RS]

Here's the big question. Do you want to do long tube headers? If no, get the Gwatney Performance 6.2L VVT1 or VVT2 truck cam. The VVT1 cam is going to be better for towing which is why we chose that one for my father-in-law's Sierra Denali and he loves it. We did do headers and a Corsa Sport but only because he wanted it loud. If yes to headers, get the Comp Cams 156-401-13. For either cam you will need a cam phaser limiter. I have the Comp in my 2008 and it is awesome. It definitely makes more power than the Gwatney VVT 1 cam because it is closer to the specs of their VVT2 cam. The Comp almost could use a converter it does push a little when stopped but is isn't bad, I'm not fighting it trying to overpower the brakes or anything. It has fantastic power down low and still runs up to 6500 RPM. I bulletproofed mine and replaced the phaser, timing chain and damper (went to the LS2 style), GMPP lifters and new guides, PSI 1511 springs, BTR 11/32" pushrods, CHE 4290 trunnion, Melling 10355 oil pump, and ARP head bolts. Your stock injectors will be fine since a 2010 is Flex Fuel.

The cam you have in your original post may be the "same" cam as the 156-401-13 but for the later engines. I think I remember that my cam may only be for the L92 and the pin location is different for 2009+.

 

[decembersend]

Here's the big question. Do you want to do long tube headers? If no, get the Gwatney Performance 6.2L VVT1 or VVT2 truck cam. The VVT1 cam is going to be better for towing which is why we chose that one for my father-in-law's Sierra Denali and he loves it. We did do headers and a Corsa Sport but only because he wanted it loud. If yes to headers, get the Comp Cams 156-401-13. For either cam you will need a cam phaser limiter. I have the Comp in my 2008 and it is awesome. It definitely makes more power than the Gwatney VVT 1 cam because it is closer to the specs of their VVT2 cam. The Comp almost could use a converter it does push a little when stopped but is isn't bad, I'm not fighting it trying to overpower the brakes or anything. It has fantastic power down low and still runs up to 6500 RPM. I bulletproofed mine and replaced the phaser, timing chain and damper (went to the LS2 style), GMPP lifters and new guides, PSI 1511 springs, BTR 11/32" pushrods, CHE 4290 trunnion, Melling 10355 oil pump, and ARP head bolts. Your stock injectors will be fine since a 2010 is Flex Fuel.

The cam you have in your original post may be the "same" cam as the 156-401-13 but for the later engines. I think I remember that my cam may only be for the L92 and the pin location is different for 2009+.

A little back story not to get to far off topic. I've been a member of this site since 2016 but stayed off of it due to the mod bug that's what the other sites did to me on my Trailblazer. Anyways back on topic.

There's all sorts of things I want to do to this thing. I want Kooks Longtubes, new exhaust (brand haven't decided?), supercharger or turbo (undecided but leaning towards turbo, I know doing this is going to change the cam and stall).

I don't really want it crazy loud a little louder then factory would be nice and I would like it to have a tiny chop.

While I'm in there I think I'm going to upgrade/replace pump, chain, bolts especially at 165k. I also think I'm going to build my DOD kit instead of just buying a prebuilt kit.

 

[Dantheman1540]

I have no experience whatsoever with how VVT affects cam specs but looking at the duration, lift, and LSA. I think that cam in a 6.2 with a 6l80 would drive great and have no issue towing. If you feel like it's lost some down low which I don't think you will notice, you can have the tuner bump shift points in tow-haul mode up a few hundred RPM so it spends more time in an area where it makes more power. I'd highly recommend long tubes with just about any cam option.

 

[Geotrash]

I did this job on a 2012 Yukon XL Denali 3 times, thanks to a bad set of lifter trays. The whole story is here, but the last page summarizes where I ended up and offers some tips that might be helpful.

My wife and I tow a 7000 lb camper with ours, so I wanted a cam that would be good for towing. My priorities were durability, drivability and towing power. I ended up with a Cam Motion Stage 2 truck cam (3-bolt, no VVT, high-lift version), and am happy with the choice. It's specifically designed for the 6.2, which is important because the flow characteristics of the heads is different than the cathedral port head engines. I previously had a BTR stage 2 truck cam in there but it was designed for the 5.3 and after putting the Cam Motion cam in could feel a significant difference in towing performance (stays in 5th gear 90% of the time now), and I have to remember to keep my foot out of it or I find myself accelerating uphill.

For reference, I also have a 2007 Yukon XL Denali that has the stock L92 engine (VVT, but no AFM) that I sometimes use to pull the same camper, and the Cam Motion cam out-pulls that factory cam, both off the line unloaded, and on the highway pulling the camper. You will do slightly better down low with a single bolt VVT cam, but since my priority was durability, I didn't want to deal with the cam phaser and the possibility of problems with it. I haven't missed it.

Cam specs:
Duration at .050 - 212/220
Lift with 1.7 - .553/.553
Lobe separation 117
Intake center line 112

 

[decembersend]

I have no experience whatsoever with how VVT affects cam specs but looking at the duration, lift, and LSA. I think that cam in a 6.2 with a 6l80 would drive great and have no issue towing. If you feel like it's lost some down low which I don't think you will notice, you can have the tuner bump shift points in tow-haul mode up a few hundred RPM so it spends more time in an area where it makes more power. I'd highly recommend long tubes with just about any cam option.

This is why I don't come on forums, they just make me want to buy and mod stuff lmao. Now I'm shopping for headers