Don't always trust your mechanic, fixed my "blown" engine for $7.

[73TA]

Initially I was not going say a thing to here about the easy fix. And I think I will keep it that way. As stated previously in this thread "let dead dogs lie" in probably the best course.

Not sure why the shop did not at least run codes on it, or at least make a small effort into checking to see if there was major engine problem or not. The engine appeared to have never been cleaned, this also pointed to me that the valve covers had never been off at least in recent times.

I agree that the engine probably is not "fine" with 234K miles on it. However, it currently runs excellent, idles smooth, does not appear to have any leaks, and no smoke at startup. Still need to install the #8 plug also.

The Esky will not be a daily driver, basically my wife's ride. Really can't see it getting more than 4K miles a year. If I can get it to 250K miles without having to tear the engine down, I consider that a win.

I feel that the engine probably needs to be de-carboned via Seafoam for starters. If there a better way to do this, please let me know. I plan on checking the #6 plug after the road trip this weekend.

Adding the catch can and the oil cleanup of the intake manifold as aimdub stated would also be on the list. I will also change the plug wires also. Hoping the oil pressure sensor arrives today. First priority is fix the problems that are triggering the four lights on the dash. Will upload pics tonight.


Thanks for everyone's feedback and comments.

Mike

 

[BlaineBug]

I bet it'll be fine for more than 4,000. Slightly heavier weight oil and seafoam in the fuel is the name of the game.

 

[89Suburban]

I bet it'll be fine for more than 4,000. Slightly heavier weight oil and seafoam in the fuel is the name of the game.

Heavier oil weight? Please explain. I have over 300K and still use the 5W30. Is this hurting me in the long run?

 

[OR VietVet]

Heavier oil weight? Please explain. I have over 300K and still use the 5W30. Is this hurting me in the long run?

It used to be a rule of thumb thing to add heavier weight oil with an older higher mileage engine. That is no more. Stick with what is called for and that will allow the better oil pressure and lubricating. Engines are different now and wear differently inside them. The oils are better as well.

 

[donjetman]

Mike/73TA:

2 yrs ago I bought a used 07 Denali 6.2 w/132k miles with unknown mx. It was burning a lot of oil. My plugs all looked like yours.

I did GM TSB# 10-60-01-008M, and installed the new improved valve cover. It immediately stopped using oil. Now 2 yr & 34K miles later, at 164k miles, it still doesn't use any oil. I used Gunk Motor Medic instead of the GM solvent listed in the TSB.

Here are some threads I did that may help you.

https://f01.justanswer.com/ebrock63...il+Consumption,+MIL+ON,+Engine+Runs+Rough.pdf

https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/sparkies-no-beno.108579/

https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/valve-cover-change-cleanup.108604/

 

[Geoffsfas10]

Heavier oil weight? Please explain. I have over 300K and still use the 5W30. Is this hurting me in the long run?

No, heavier oil can have a harder time seaping through old gaskets and such but its not really a thing anymore.

 

[pwtr02ss]

I’d do an upper engine clean, it prob has a stuck ring. Then do updates valve cover or at least buy a new one. Very common problem

 

[iamdub]

I feel that the engine probably needs to be de-carboned via Seafoam for starters. If there a better way to do this, please let me know. I plan on checking the #6 plug after the road trip this weekend.

Mike/73TA:

2 yrs ago I bought a used 07 Denali 6.2 w/132k miles with unknown mx. It was burning a lot of oil. My plugs all looked like yours.

I did GM TSB# 10-60-01-008M, and installed the new improved valve cover. It immediately stopped using oil. Now 2 yr & 34K miles later, at 164k miles, it still doesn't use any oil. I used Gunk Motor Medic instead of the GM solvent listed in the TSB.

Here are some threads I did that may help you.

https://f01.justanswer.com/ebrock63/cec66346-04c1-48e0-98a6-74c35af2c84e_2014+Engine+-+Oil+Consumption,+MIL+ON,+Engine+Runs+Rough.pdf

https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/sparkies-no-beno.108579/

https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/valve-cover-change-cleanup.108604/

Don beat me to it. I concur with him. De-carbon with either the GM stuff or Motor Medic, following the guidelines in the TSB. You may have to repeat it.

 

[BlaineBug]

I’d do an upper engine clean, it prob has a stuck ring. Then do updates valve cover or at least buy a new one. Very common problem

I mentioned heavier weight oil in the event that the plug fouling was caused by leaky rings.

 

[73TA]

Don, thanks for the great info on the oil burning fixes for these engines. The TSB is referring to the AFM engines I don't believe that my 08 has according my research, and it doesn't switch over to 4 cylinder mode liked my 2013 5.3 does when I drive it. I see all your plugs looked like my one "dead" one, amazing it even ran.

Found this on the Cadillac forum, I assume it is accurate.

1) All model year 2007 Escalades built prior to 4/1/2006 were built with engines that have all the internal AFM / DOD hardware inside. But the ECM is programmed not to use it, and therefore they run on 8 cylinders all the time.

2) All Model year 2007 Escalades built on or after 4/1/2006 are built with engines that do not have the internal AFM / DOD hardware. This applies to all 2008 and 2009 Escalades as well.

3) All Model year 2010 and up Escalades are built with fully functioning AFM / DOD.


Do I still need to change the valve cover if I don't have AFM?
Should I still desludge or "decarbon" with Gunk Motor Medic my engine?

Thanks
Mike