Engine Revving in Park

[ugadawgs311]

Here is the report I received:

Engine Control Module (ECM) 8 Codes

1.P0068-00: Throttle Body Air Flow Performance
2.P0101-00: Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
Performance
3.P0103-00: Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Circuit
High Frequency
4.P0106-00: Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP)
Sensor Performance
5.P0121-00: Throttle Position (TP) Sensor 1
Performance
6.P0300-00: Engine Misfire Detected
7.P0521-00: Engine Oil Pressure (EOP) Sensor
Performance
8.P0573-00: Brake Switch Circuit 1 High Voltage

Transmission Control Module
(TCM) 0 Code
Rollover Sensor (RS) 0 Code
Supplemental Inflatable
Restraint (SIR) 0 Code

Electronic Brake Control
Module (EBCM) 2 Codes

1.C0561-71: System Disabled Information Stored
Invalid Serial Data Received
2.C0242-00: Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
Indicated Traction Control System (TCS)
Malfunction

So, 10 codes in total. Quite the list! The shop replaced the MAF, but when they tried restarting the vehicle, it wouldn't turn over. They took my battery out and tried another one, and the vehicle started just fine. I've had this issue with my battery before (i.e. all the sudden not starting, not even trying to turn the engine over). I've taken it to shops to have the battery tested, and it reads ok on the computer, but just won't start for whatever reason. In the past, it just all the sudden goes away one day and starts perfectly again with no issue. I decided to just go ahead and get a new battery at this point. I don't want this to happen when I'm out somewhere traveling with family and am all the sudden stranded because of a faulty battery.

Since they replaced the battery, all the check engine codes are clear. So, now it's hard to tell if replacing the MAF was the only fix I needed. I guess I need to drive around for a little while and see if the check engine light comes back or if there are any engine issues while driving.

 

[Geotrash]

Here is the report I received:

Engine Control Module (ECM) 8 Codes

1.P0068-00: Throttle Body Air Flow Performance
2.P0101-00: Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
Performance
3.P0103-00: Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Circuit
High Frequency
4.P0106-00: Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP)
Sensor Performance
5.P0121-00: Throttle Position (TP) Sensor 1
Performance
6.P0300-00: Engine Misfire Detected
7.P0521-00: Engine Oil Pressure (EOP) Sensor
Performance
8.P0573-00: Brake Switch Circuit 1 High Voltage

Transmission Control Module
(TCM) 0 Code
Rollover Sensor (RS) 0 Code
Supplemental Inflatable
Restraint (SIR) 0 Code

Electronic Brake Control
Module (EBCM) 2 Codes

1.C0561-71: System Disabled Information Stored
Invalid Serial Data Received
2.C0242-00: Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
Indicated Traction Control System (TCS)
Malfunction

So, 10 codes in total. Quite the list! The shop replaced the MAF, but when they tried restarting the vehicle, it wouldn't turn over. They took my battery out and tried another one, and the vehicle started just fine. I've had this issue with my battery before (i.e. all the sudden not starting, not even trying to turn the engine over). I've taken it to shops to have the battery tested, and it reads ok on the computer, but just won't start for whatever reason. In the past, it just all the sudden goes away one day and starts perfectly again with no issue. I decided to just go ahead and get a new battery at this point. I don't want this to happen when I'm out somewhere traveling with family and am all the sudden stranded because of a faulty battery.

Since they replaced the battery, all the check engine codes are clear. So, now it's hard to tell if replacing the MAF was the only fix I needed. I guess I need to drive around for a little while and see if the check engine light comes back or if there are any engine issues while driving.

The no start condition is just as likely a bad ground or cable as a bad battery. The cables corrode from the inside out and the main ground point near the battery corrodes enough sometimes to have intermittent connectivity.

 

[ugadawgs311]

The no start condition is just as likely a bad ground or cable as a bad battery. The cables corrode from the inside out and the main ground point near the battery corrodes enough sometimes to have intermittent connectivity.

Gotcha. Hopefully a new battery will solve the issue for a few years.

As far as all the other codes, could it be possible that those showed up just because of the MAF? And now that the MAF is replaced, the other codes should be cleared for now? Just want to make sure I'm not essentially getting a Band-Aid for a few weeks just to have another issue next month.

 

[Geotrash]

Gotcha. Hopefully a new battery will solve the issue for a few years.

As far as all the other codes, could it be possible that those showed up just because of the MAF? And now that the MAF is replaced, the other codes should be cleared for now? Just want to make sure I'm not essentially getting a Band-Aid for a few weeks just to have another issue next month.

Like Wes, I've never seen a MAF trigger more throttle so while something is definitely going on in the airflow and throttle sensor array, it's too early to consider the MAF the culprit, in my opinion. Like others have said, the shop doesn't seem to have done a proper diagnostic that includes monitoring MAF sensor and TPS with a scanner during an uncommanded throttle event so right now it's a spray and pray approach with a parts cannon, unfortunately.

 

[George B]

It should be noted that these rigs get really finicky with low voltage and bad battery performance. It may have been the battery or power related all along. Keep us posted.

 

[ugadawgs311]

Got it. Well hopefully it'll run for a little while with no issues. For added context, back in December I had the TPS replaced. The tech at the time told me I could just replace the sensor or replace the entire system (more $$$). Replacing the sensor, he said, would be a temporary fix, and he couldn't say if it'd be fine for another month, 6 months, year, etc. Since I'm planning on selling or trading in the vehicle soon, I went with the cheaper option just to replace the sensor. Maybe I should've opted to replace the whole system, but again, I don't want to dump a ton of money into the vehicle if I'll be parting ways with it soon.

 

[ugadawgs311]

It should be noted that these rigs get really finicky with low voltage and bad battery performance. It may have been the battery or power related all along. Keep us posted.

Good to know! I've had numerous issues with the electrical/computer components on this vehicle. While driving 80 mph on the interstate about 1.5 years ago, all the electronics suddenly shut off on me. No speedometer, lights, gauges, radio, etc. Definitely not a fun experience with my family in the car.

 

[George B]

Good to know! I've had numerous issues with the electrical/computer components on this vehicle. While driving 80 mph on the interstate about 1.5 years ago, all the electronics suddenly shut off on me. No speedometer, lights, gauges, radio, etc. Definitely not a fun experience with my family in the car.

Consider a “Big Three” upgrade to the charging system. At the very least address the ground from the battery to the engine and chassis. It’s cheap and easy. Solved some abs problems for me.

 

[Geotrash]

Consider a “Big Three” upgrade to the charging system. At the very least address the ground from the battery to the engine and chassis. It’s cheap and easy. Solved some abs problems for me.

+1. The cables corrode from the inside out also, which is a little extra bit of comic relief because they look perfectly fine to the eye. So you go about replacing all sorts of sensors on a multi-day, $1000 wild goose chase while the problem was the simplest part of the system all along.

 

[George B]

Look here:
Post in thread 'GeorgeB’s 2013 Suburban LTZ “Fin”'
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/georgeb’s-2013-suburban-ltz-“fin”.116933/post-1639816