GeorgeB’s 2013 Suburban LTZ “Fin”

[George B]

Dealership says they believe it to be gear lash issue with the ring and pinion likely caused by an issue with the carrier bearings. I agree with the diagnosis. They indicated that it may be best to do a complete replacement of the front diff since it has been service for this once before according to the records. They quoted me $1700 parts and labor on a salvage yard part. I can do that kind of work myself so I will have to think on this one. I would rather buy a good re-manufactured unit with a longer warranty than 12 mo or 12k.

 

[George B]

this unit has a 2 year unlimited mile warranty.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=9909432&cc=1505393&jsn=765&jsn=765&jsn=765

Gonna reach out to the dealer I bought it from and see if they will help me at all. Not likely but worth an email.

 

[swathdiver]

Dealership says they believe it to be gear lash issue with the ring and pinion likely caused by an issue with the carrier bearings. I agree with the diagnosis. They indicated that it may be best to do a complete replacement of the front diff since it has been service for this once before according to the records. They quoted me $1700 parts and labor on a salvage yard part. I can do that kind of work myself so I will have to think on this one. I would rather buy a good re-manufactured unit with a longer warranty than 12 mo or 12k.

If memory serves, fellas have paid about $1200 to get theirs rebuilt and if you do it yourself, which lots of guys on here have done, with photos, it costs about 2/3 less than that.

 

[George B]

Waiting to hear back from the dealer I bought it from but I doubt they will do anything for me. So looking at my options since a home rebuild is simply not in the cards.

1. Found a complete re-manufactured unit for around $800.00 through Rock Auto. Carries a 2 year warranty with unlimited mileage.
2. A Jasper unit will run me around $1500.00 with a 3 year/100,000 mile warranty.
3. Got a quote on a Salvage take out for around $525.00 with about 100,000 miles on the vehicle clock. 90 day warranty for the part.
4. Chevy dealer quoted me $1700.00 installed on a salvage yard unit. 12 month/12,000 warranty. Mileage unknown.
5. Find someone to rebuild this one that will stand behind it.

Of course the first three are with me doing the swap. not an issue and probably only take a couple hours. 1 is pretty high on my choice list. 3 and 4 are not likely choices. 4 may be an option. I haven't called around to get other quotes or second opinions yet.

I can say I am a bit shy on a used one given some of the horror stories I have read about them being bad. I suppose I could get a bad reman or a poor rebuild job too.

Just sucks to be in this spot. This blows my wheel budget.

 

[swathdiver]

Waiting to hear back from the dealer I bought it from but I doubt they will do anything for me. So looking at my options since a home rebuild is simply not in the cards.

1. Found a complete re-manufactured unit for around $800.00 through Rock Auto. Carries a 2 year warranty with unlimited mileage.
2. A Jasper unit will run me around $1500.00 with a 3 year/100,000 mile warranty.
3. Got a quote on a Salvage take out for around $525.00 with about 100,000 miles on the vehicle clock. 90 day warranty for the part.
4. Chevy dealer quoted me $1700.00 installed on a salvage yard unit. 12 month/12,000 warranty. Mileage unknown.
5. Find someone to rebuild this one that will stand behind it.

Of course the first three are with me doing the swap. not an issue and probably only take a couple hours. 1 is pretty high on my choice list. 3 and 4 are not likely choices. 4 may be an option. I haven't called around to get other quotes or second opinions yet.

I can say I am a bit shy on a used one given some of the horror stories I have read about them being bad. I suppose I could get a bad reman or a poor rebuild job too.

Just sucks to be in this spot. This blows my wheel budget.

#1 looks pretty good or you can do what I did, turn the radio up louder. No more noises to worry about!

 

[George B]

#1 looks pretty good or you can do what I did, turn the radio up louder. No more noises to worry about!

Being that the four wheel drive in my vehicles get a max of 100 miles a year and most all of that is under 50 mph I just might let this ride a while. I can always drop the diff and fix it over summer. I figure if I drain and fill the front diff and find no metal on the plug I will be ok. I am convinced after listening to it again today that it is the back lash for the ring and pinion since it makes noise on both acceleration and deceleration but can be eliminated if I feather the throttle just right when cruising. I am not one to run in 4 wheel much at all even 4-AUTO.

 

[George B]

Got my splash guards and have confirmed I will need to move and/or modify my running boards. I know I can slide them back but I don't want them poking into the rear wheel wells too far. I may need to modify them. I found the video in the link below but am unsure if I want to go that route or not. seems like a solid solution...

 

[skipp65]

Got my splash guards and have confirmed I will need to move and/or modify my running boards. I know I can slide them back but I don't want them poking into the rear wheel wells too far. I may need to modify them. I found the video in the link below but am unsure if I want to go that route or not. seems like a solid solution...

What splash gaurds did you go with?

 

[George B]

What splash gaurds did you go with?

I ended up going with some flat PlastiColor units from the local Farm&Fleet.

 

[George B]

I installed my splash guards over the weekend. I feel the end result is acceptable. Since I didn’t want to cut up the ends of my running boards just yet I ended up going a different route. What I did was sort of reform the ends of the running boards with my heat gun. I gained about 3/8” that way and then slid the boards back about 1/2”. Got just enough clearance to put the guards on. They have a slight static rub when they articulate but not much. Looks good to me.

Here is the factory board end.

Here is the modified end.


Here is how they fit up with the boards.


Final product minus a much needed wash.