Growing up doesn't have to suck

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iamdub

iamdub

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If you haven't yet, use the tech 2 to perform the blend door calibration.

That said, me doing a proactive ac compressor replacement did help my ac a little.

My ac worked fine, and it might have been an oil replacement + fresh 134a.

If i were to do it again, i would also do my ac condenser.

Mine was pretty plugged, i did even more cleanup this time around.
With my trans oil cooler removed, i found even more was plugged.

I used a fine dental pick to poke out each blocked hole, and followed up with compressed air.

Part of why i say to replace it if you're willing to go that far is the amount of time it took, and it still looks loke the surface of the moon... lol

Come to think of it, that's probably the major reason for the improvement the first time i had the radiator out... lol
Cleaning and straightening of the fins.

No Tech2 here, and the actuator calibration can be performed without it. But, diagnosing the blend doors and a plethora of other AC system tests require it. :(

If it leaks out again, like soon, and not over the course of a few years, I'll aim to do a thorough refresh of the system with replacement of the wear items and whatever's ailing. Maybe replace all the actuators as a preventative measure. I have no idea of the condition of my condenser.
 
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George B

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No Tech2 here, and the actuator calibration can be performed without it. But, diagnosing the blend doors and a plethora of other A.C system tests require it. :(

If it leaks out again, like soon, and not over the course of a few years, I'll aim to do a thorough refresh of the system with replacement of the wear items and whatever's ailing. Maybe replace all the actuators as a preventative measure. I have no idea of the condition of my condenser.
My rear control acts in a way other than I would expect. When I get a chance I will compare how mine acts.
 
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iamdub

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Rear A/C wonkiness:

When set on "face", it blows out the headliner vents but isn't cool at all. It's not full-on heat, but not chilled. When I switched it to "feet", the air from the vents under the seats is cool. I didn't let it run long enough to see if it would get as cold as that coming out the dash vents, but it was definitely cooler than that coming out of the headliner vents.


The aluminum lines underneath the body at the right rear weren't cool at all. Shouldn't they be?

Also, the rear climate control panel seems to be doing strange things. When any button is pressed, it'll show the full display of temp, fan speed and vent selection. After about five seconds, the duct selection part goes away. It'll come back and respond accordingly if I press the button to cycle through the options. Pic with it missing:

img_0230-jpg.jpg



After about 10 seconds, the whole display goes blank except for this:

img_0229-jpg.jpg
 

George B

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Mine does not act like yours and the screen stays on unlike yours. I get cold air out of the upper and/or lower vents as expected. Mine is a 2013 with the most current calibration in the rear module.
 
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iamdub

iamdub

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Mine does not act like yours and the screen stays on unlike yours. I get cold air out of the upper and/or lower vents as expected. Mine is a 2013 with the most current calibration in the rear module.

How does yours act that is "in a way other than you would expect"? It sounds fine to me.
 

George B

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How does yours act that is "in a way other than you would expect"? It sounds fine to me.
Mine acts goofy for heating in the winter.
 

Just Fishing

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No Tech2 here, and the actuator calibration can be performed without it. But, diagnosing the blend doors and a plethora of other A.C system tests require it. :(

If it leaks out again, like soon, and not over the course of a few years, I'll aim to do a thorough refresh of the system with replacement of the wear items and whatever's ailing. Maybe replace all the actuators as a preventative measure. I have no idea of the condition of my condenser.

no tech2?!?!

When is your bday? ;)
 

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