Growing up doesn't have to suck

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

OP
OP
iamdub

iamdub

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 23, 2016
Posts
20,821
Reaction score
44,950
Location
Li'l Weezyana
Thinking out loud here: I wanna weigh the back of the Tahoe down and let it sit for a week or so to speed up the coil settling process. I'll set the axle on jack stands so the tires aren't carrying the extra weight, potentially flat-spotting them. This would also give me room underneath to check the remaining travel left in the driveshaft's slip yoke so I can (hopefully) scratch that concern off the list.

Current thoughts are to use my largest ice chest and crawfish pot and fill them with water. I have an electric pump so draining them for easy removal won't be a problem. I think my pot is 80 qt., so that's 20 gallons and about 177 lbs. including the pot itself. Gotta see how many gallons the ice chest is. I'm expecting to need upwards of 400 lbs., maybe more. I'll watch it and measure the squat as I add the water. I'll also beat a rubber stopper into the ice chest's drain from the inside to ensure no accidents from the drain cap letting loose.



... You may be right- I may be crazy. But I just may be the lunatic those modding their 'Hoes is looking for.
 

swathdiver

Full Access Member
Joined
May 18, 2017
Posts
19,745
Reaction score
26,633
Location
Treasure Coast, Florida
Thinking out loud here: I wanna weigh the back of the Tahoe down and let it sit for a week or so to speed up the coil settling process. I'll set the axle on jack stands so the tires aren't carrying the extra weight, potentially flat-spotting them. This would also give me room underneath to check the remaining travel left in the driveshaft's slip yoke so I can (hopefully) scratch that concern off the list.

Current thoughts are to use my largest ice chest and crawfish pot and fill them with water. I have an electric pump so draining them for easy removal won't be a problem. I think my pot is 80 qt., so that's 20 gallons and about 177 lbs. including the pot itself. Gotta see how many gallons the ice chest is. I'm expecting to need upwards of 400 lbs., maybe more. I'll watch it and measure the squat as I add the water. I'll also beat a rubber stopper into the ice chest's drain from the inside to ensure no accidents from the drain cap letting loose.



... You may be right- I may be crazy. But I just may be the lunatic those modding their 'Hoes is looking for.

I haven't thought this through but will the axle tubes protest supporting the extra weight in just two small areas where the stands contact them?
 
OP
OP
iamdub

iamdub

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 23, 2016
Posts
20,821
Reaction score
44,950
Location
Li'l Weezyana
I haven't thought this through but will the axle tubes protest supporting the extra weight in just two small areas where the stands contact them?

Good point. I thought about this, but, they're fairly large stands with circular notches in the pads for axles- The 12 ton ones from Harbor Freight. Also, as I usually do when I use them, I plan to put them under the areas where the coils are. This is where the tubes always have weight anyway. Due to the time and the way it'll be loaded, maybe I'll lay some steel plates in those curves of the pads to spread the load out some. That'd put my mind more at ease.
 
OP
OP
iamdub

iamdub

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 23, 2016
Posts
20,821
Reaction score
44,950
Location
Li'l Weezyana
Correction: Crawfish pot is 100 qt., so about 216 lbs. Ice chest is 120 qt., so 247 lbs. That's 463 lbs. not counting the weight of the pot or ice chest, so I'll add another 20 lbs. at least.

So, a potential of 480 lbs.- perfect!

Also, I found some stock front coils from my '01 Jeep XJ. They're about 1.5" taller than the stock rear Tahoe coils but are much thinner wire diameter. They're also about the same overall diameter. One end is wound tighter ("pigtailed") just like the stock coil and the other end is just cut square. So, I could cut it down as needed with no problem. Y'all know I'm gonna try 'em out!

Apparently, I'm just bound and determined to use SOME sort of stock Jeep coil as a drop coil!
 
Last edited:

Sam Harris

Supporting Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2018
Posts
7,431
Reaction score
14,924
Location
Texas
Correction: Crawfish pot is 100 qt., so about 216 lbs. Ice chest is 120 qt., so 247 lbs. That's 463 lbs. not counting the weight of the pot or ice chest, so I'll add another 20 lbs. at least.

So, a potential of 480 lbs.- perfect!

Also, I found some stock front coils from my '01 Jeep XJ. They're about 1.5" taller than the stock rear Tahoe coils but are much thinner wire diameter. They're also about the same overall diameter. One end is wound tighter ("pigtailed") just like the stock coil and the other end is just cut square. So, I could cut it down as needed with no problem. Y'all know I'm gonna try 'em out!

Apparently, I'm just bound and determined to used SOME sort of stock Jeep coil as a drop coil!
Nice!.. keep us informed sir!
 
OP
OP
iamdub

iamdub

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 23, 2016
Posts
20,821
Reaction score
44,950
Location
Li'l Weezyana
Scratch all that noise about settling the 5305s!

So, last night I unbolted the bottom of the shocks and let them hang. I intended to go for a drive but the shocks were maybe 2" from the concrete, and I wasn't ready to bother with unbolting the top and removing them altogether. The rear end felt like a 60s Cadillac, so I didn't think a test drive was necessary. I decided my shocks were the problem so I went to my stockpile and dug out some Bilsteins I had saved from my XJ project. The preliminary measurements seemed about right and they were a little softer than the stock AutoRide/ALC shocks. Belltech lists two Street Performance shocks for these things, the 2410FF and the 2412FF. The latter is for 0"-3" drop and is what I went with since I was trying to stick to the factory design as closely as possible, just with the axle 4" higher. The extenders recovering 2" of the lost travel meant that the shock would see only a 2" drop, so I thought it would be perfect. The shock body is considerably larger than that of the 2410FF, which I considered a plus since it was more similar to the factory shock. The 2410FF is the more popular shock that everyone gets with the 3"-5" drop coils, but then they also complain of it being too soft. All of this lead me to get the 2412FF.

Anyway, after looking up the specs on the other recommended shock, the 2410FF, I found them to be identical to the Bilstein I had on hand. Time to get busy! The Bilstein had a bar pin mount for the top and regular bushing for the bottom. I pressed the sleeved bushings out of the factory shocks and cut the sleeves out of them (burnt rubber particles everywhere). It sounds like it was so easy and quick just typing it out, but it sucked and took a couple hours last night and this morning. This even included me having to cut a 7/8" impact socket in half to retrieve the bushing sleeve that was stuck in it.

As much as all of this sucked, I did figure out a cool way to bore out a rubber bushing's ID cleanly and while maintaining it's center. Use a paddle bit of the desired size and slide the stem through the bushing, then chuck it up in the drill. The tapered backside of the bit keeps it centered and it'll gradually and cleanly open up the hole. A regular bit would've dug into the bushing and chewed it up and likely wouldn't drill straight:

IMG_0283.JPG


After boring out the rubber bushings, I was able to press in the factory sleeves and bolt in the shocks. While I was under there, I saw where my sway bar had been rubbing the shock mount due to me not having the axle centered, so I clearanced it a little and adjusted the panhard.

Before:
IMG_0305.JPG

After:
IMG_0306.JPG


Yes, I smoothed and painted it after I was done. I also flipped the axle side half of the panhard to put the grease fitting facing downward. Cutting that ear off for more clearance a week or two ago exposed the fitting as the new high point, which means it'd get snapped off should that part ever bottom out against the cross member. The mount has a slotted hole in the underside so the fitting is accessible from the bottom. Simple solution there.


I finished up the shocks and tightened everything and took it for a drive. It was SO much nicer. Felt like it'd be really comfortable on a highway cruise. The dips and cracks and blow-ups in the road were much less pronounced. Even the 22" Brickstone Duelers are now bearable! Jerking the wheel side-to-side to wag the rear resulted in a lot more swaying than with the other shocks, as expected, but it didn't get out of control. One day I'll have some nice sway bars, so that aspect will be much improved.

So now I had to swap the TJ coils back in for (1) to give them a proper and fair assessment and (2) because I wanted my 4" drop back. 45 minutes later I'm on the road again and even more relieved. The TJ coils feel very much like the 5305s. They kinda felt a tiny bit firmer but then also felt a tiny bit softer. Regardless, I can absolutely say that they are a great coil for an honest 4" drop. They should be cheap or free to obtain, depending on who you know or what's at your local salvage yard. Maybe go dumpster-diving at 4Wheel Parts? Unless I didn't shop thoroughly enough, the 5305s are not available new by themselves and must be purchased in a kit from Tony. Otherwise, you have to luck up and find someone selling a set. The 5305s are advertised as 4", but I only got 3.25". I must say that they may just have had some settling to do. But, for the week I had them installed, they rear remained right where it was from day 1. They do have dead coils that can be cut to achieve more drop, much more than 4", without altering the ride quality, though.

For my purposes, the slightly too soft ride and consistent inside shape (as opposed to having active plus dead coils) of the TJ coil suits me best since I'll be slipping some Air Lift bags inside them. It was difficult to get an accurate measurement, but it looks like the inside height is about perfect for the short set of Air Lift bags I have on hand. So now, I'm finally moving forward with that experiment. (@kbuskill)
 

kbuskill

***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
Joined
Mar 11, 2017
Posts
5,312
Reaction score
8,331
Location
NE. FL.
It was difficult to get an accurate measurement, but it looks like the inside height is about perfect for the short set of Air Lift bags I have on hand. So now, I'm finally moving forward with that experiment. (@kbuskill)

Giggity Giggity !!!

Can't wait... but I guess I will.
 

BourbonNcigars

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 1, 2018
Posts
865
Reaction score
1,840
Scratch all that noise about settling the 5305s!

So, last night I unbolted the bottom of the shocks and let them hang. I intended to go for a drive but the shocks were maybe 2" from the concrete, and I wasn't ready to bother with unbolting the top and removing them altogether. The rear end felt like a 60s Cadillac, so I didn't think a test drive was necessary. I decided my shocks were the problem so I went to my stockpile and dug out some Bilsteins I had saved from my XJ project. The preliminary measurements seemed about right and they were a little softer than the stock AutoRide/ALC shocks. Belltech lists two Street Performance shocks for these things, the 2410FF and the 2412FF. The latter is for 0"-3" drop and is what I went with since I was trying to stick to the factory design as closely as possible, just with the axle 4" higher. The extenders recovering 2" of the lost travel meant that the shock would see only a 2" drop, so I thought it would be perfect. The shock body is considerably larger than that of the 2410FF, which I considered a plus since it was more similar to the factory shock. The 2410FF is the more popular shock that everyone gets with the 3"-5" drop coils, but then they also complain of it being too soft. All of this lead me to get the 2412FF.

Anyway, after looking up the specs on the other recommended shock, the 2410FF, I found them to be identical to the Bilstein I had on hand. Time to get busy! The Bilstein had a bar pin mount for the top and regular bushing for the bottom. I pressed the sleeved bushings out of the factory shocks and cut the sleeves out of them (burnt rubber particles everywhere). It sounds like it was so easy and quick just typing it out, but it sucked and took a couple hours last night and this morning. This even included me having to cut a 7/8" impact socket in half to retrieve the bushing sleeve that was stuck in it.

As much as all of this sucked, I did figure out a cool way to bore out a rubber bushing's ID cleanly and while maintaining it's center. Use a paddle bit of the desired size and slide the stem through the bushing, then chuck it up in the drill. The tapered backside of the bit keeps it centered and it'll gradually and cleanly open up the hole. A regular bit would've dug into the bushing and chewed it up and likely wouldn't drill straight:

View attachment 239846


After boring out the rubber bushings, I was able to press in the factory sleeves and bolt in the shocks. While I was under there, I saw where my sway bar had been rubbing the shock mount due to me not having the axle centered, so I clearanced it a little and adjusted the panhard.

Before:
View attachment 239848

After:
View attachment 239849


Yes, I smoothed and painted it after I was done. I also flipped the axle side half of the panhard to put the grease fitting facing downward. Cutting that ear off for more clearance a week or two ago exposed the fitting as the new high point, which means it'd get snapped off should that part ever bottom out against the cross member. The mount has a slotted hole in the underside so the fitting is accessible from the bottom. Simple solution there.


I finished up the shocks and tightened everything and took it for a drive. It was SO much nicer. Felt like it'd be really comfortable on a highway cruise. The dips and cracks and blow-ups in the road were much less pronounced. Even the 22" Brickstone Duelers are now bearable! Jerking the wheel side-to-side to wag the rear resulted in a lot more swaying than with the other shocks, as expected, but it didn't get out of control. One day I'll have some nice sway bars, so that aspect will be much improved.

So now I had to swap the TJ coils back in for (1) to give them a proper and fair assessment and (2) because I wanted my 4" drop back. 45 minutes later I'm on the road again and even more relieved. The TJ coils feel very much like the 5305s. They kinda felt a tiny bit firmer but then also felt a tiny bit softer. Regardless, I can absolutely say that they are a great coil for an honest 4" drop. They should be cheap or free to obtain, depending on who you know or what's at your local salvage yard. Maybe go dumpster-diving at 4Wheel Parts? Unless I didn't shop thoroughly enough, the 5305s are not available new by themselves and must be purchased in a kit from Tony. Otherwise, you have to luck up and find someone selling a set. The 5305s are advertised as 4", but I only got 3.25". I must say that they may just have had some settling to do. But, for the week I had them installed, they rear remained right where it was from day 1. They do have dead coils that can be cut to achieve more drop, much more than 4", without altering the ride quality, though.

For my purposes, the slightly too soft ride and consistent inside shape (as opposed to having active plus dead coils) of the TJ coil suits me best since I'll be slipping some Air Lift bags inside them. It was difficult to get an accurate measurement, but it looks like the inside height is about perfect for the short set of Air Lift bags I have on hand. So now, I'm finally moving forward with that experiment. (@kbuskill)
I really hate that you've started shortening your posts. I wanted you to keep up with the super duper detailed experience logs.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
132,703
Posts
1,872,844
Members
97,516
Latest member
masonstahoe06
Top