Gruven heater core T-connectors

[kbuskill]

I was going to put an order in, but I need something sooner than he's willing to manufacture it. I'll order a few GM Tee's, and change them every few years. Too bad.

I don't know if any of you guys have emailed him but I would certainly appreciate it if you would... the squeaky wheel gets the grease as they say.

 

[kbuskill]

Any reason why you couldnt use braided coolant lines and just a AN Y fitting?

View attachment 219547

It would be a lot more hassle and money, but aside from that... no, I suppose you could.

You would just have to figure out how to attach the AN fittings to the heater core and metal lines going to the rear heater core.

 

[97audia4]

This has peaked my interest and I have reached out to a few companies that custom make silicon hoses hoses to get rid of all the plastic.

No clue on pricing yet and you would have to use hose clamps to connect the heater lines and water pump but as long as you use a quality clamp there is nothing to worry about.

https://www.siliconehose.com/custom-hoses/

 

[kbuskill]

This has peaked my interest and I have reached out to a few companies that custom make silicon hoses hoses to get rid of all the plastic.

No clue on pricing yet and you would have to use hose clamps to connect the heater lines and water pump but as long as you use a quality clamp there is nothing to worry about.

https://www.siliconehose.com/custom-hoses/

These T-connectors that Gruven is supposed to make will come with the short pieces of silicone hose to attach the connectors to the heater core and rear supply lines.

You could run silicone hoses from the water pump to the heater core but you would still need a T-connector of some sort OR bypass the rear heater core.

 

[97audia4]

These T-connectors that Gruven is supposed to make will come with the short pieces of silicone hose to attach the connectors to the heater core and rear supply lines.

You could run silicone hoses from the water pump to the heater core but you would still need a T-connector of some sort OR bypass the rear heater core.

In going to see if they can make that all one piece out of silicone so the hose itself would include the t off to rear heat lines.

 

[Smrtss1]

Email sent asking for status and stating that if these are not going to be produced or they have no plans on making them and having them at my door in the next 4 weeks I want the full deposit returned.

Almost 6 months? I could’ve made these by hand with a drill and hand files in that time.

 

[kbuskill]

Email sent asking for status and stating that if these are not going to be produced or they have no plans on making them and having them at my door in the next 4 weeks I want the full deposit returned.

Almost 6 months? I could’ve made these by hand with a drill and hand files in that time.

Keep us posted on their reply.

 

[Smrtss1]

Got a response this morning. Standard “sorry for the delay, I’ll keep you updated” thing. He said they only have 6 orders and that he can’t understand why people are content with plastic that could easily fail. While I agree with that I can’t help but wonder how many they’d sell if they dropped the price a little and actually had them in stock.


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[petethepug]

This is one of those parts that should be in the storage bin in the back of the truck or glove box.

This one’s simple, pay now or pay for a new motor later. If you have the parts you’re immune. Same goes for ....

the lesson learned on not keeping a set of TPMS sensors in the vehicle after its 7th birthday.

1) Not purchasing OEM online doubles or triples your price for each one.
2) If you don’t have them prior to your 7th year tire change, you pay to have the tire(s) pulled/ installed 2x.
3) Not so savoury shops will play the shell game with you when your tire is off trying to make you pay for a new TPMS that’s not needed. If u have em, and they’re marked, you supply the new one and keep the old one to test later.
4) If you don’t purchase new b4 the 7th year you won’t have time for a shop to test them b4 install to verify their condition.
5) TPMS sensors usually go bad when you’ve got a puncture of bad valve stem. You’re more likely to drive the tire until u run it flat if you ignore the bad TPMS.
6) Ever had to buy 4 new tires on an AWD truck because 1 tire replacement means too much tread for the other 3 tires causing the diffs to do a death spin?
7) Do you think you’ll pay full retail to have all the TPMS replaced when paying for 4 tires at full retail and you may not want the brand of tires they have in stock (while out of town)?
8) TPMS = pay now or pay later. TPMS on AWD = pay (very little) now or pay (out the a$$) later with a humiliating lesson learned.


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[Trailblazzin]

I wonder if I placed 2 separate orders for a single “t” if it would help get the ball rolling sooner. I believe I need 2 for the reAr heat. The more I read about these failing makes me want to replace mine, but if I’ll have to wait months I’ll just buy the oem version and hope they last long enough.