How would you test drive a 2015 Yukon with 102k?

[PitchBlease]

Hi all, 20+ year Ford owner here, hopefully making the switch to GM tomorrow.

I'm test driving a 2015 Yukon SLE with the 6 speed transmission and 5.3 engine.

After looking around the forums, I'll be checking the 4WD selector first, to make sure it's on 2wd and not on A4D.

I plan on replacing all fluids and filters, tuning it up, etc. to make sure it's safe for towing our 3000lb camper.

I'm a single dad that hasn't had a car loan since 1998 and have gotten 4 vehicles to over 250k miles. I mention this because I'm willing to spend money and garage time to keep my vehicles running right, and am proficient enough for most repairs.

If you were test driving this Yukon, what would you check for? Any driving maneuvers or undercarriage spots you would check?

 

[STORMIN08]

as always...drive it like you stole it.

common items again...ball joints, control arm sqeaks...ect, all easy fixes and relatively cheap.

i just did rear control arms and track bar for a few hundred bucks...all dealer bought parts also.

 

[CMoore711]

I'm a single dad that hasn't had a car loan since 1998 and have gotten 4 vehicles to over 250k miles. I mention this because I'm willing to spend money and garage time to keep my vehicles running right, and am proficient enough for most repairs.

If you were test driving this Yukon, what would you check for? Any driving maneuvers or undercarriage spots you would check?

Good for you man! I got 197K out of my last GM SUV (Trailblazer SS). At 120K on my ‘15 Denali XL and like you perfectly fine with maintaining up to 250K+.

How many miles are on the truck you’re looking at?

 

[LT1ZOB]

You’re getting awfully close to needing a torque converter in that A6, usually at about 125k miles. I don’t keep mine that long, but 3 friends (1 Suburban, 2 Silverados) started experiencing slipping issues between 110 and 135k miles. Just something to keep in mind. No guarantee of course it will happen to you.

 

[Tahoe14]

CMoore, In the heading for the post it indicated 102 thousand.

 

[Doubeleive]

Although the torque converter is a known weak point it can also depend on how much you abuse it, it is a not a defacto "going to fail" thing it just happens often enough to be a point of interest, take a flashlight look under the truck for leaks or worn stuff, it's also pretty typical to have to replace shocks around this point also especially if it has air ride.
take some speed bumps and see how it reacts, listen for noises, pop the hood listen to the engine, check all the doors, windows, locks, all the little buttons and gizmo's if it has rear entertainment check all that suff, seat heaters/coolers, turn the heater and ac on up down left/right etc, etc typical stuff. if you find any issue have it addressed BEFORE you sign anything, after you sign they are off the hook.
review the carfax and see where it came from and how much was done or not done to it, more maintenance performed just means less work for you down the road imo.
good luck.

 

[PitchBlease]

Good for you man! I got 197K out of my last GM SUV (Trailblazer SS). At 120K on my ‘15 Denali XL and like you perfectly fine with maintaining up to 250K+.

How many miles are on the truck you’re looking at?

102,000 miles

 

[PitchBlease]

Although the torque converter is a known weak point it can also depend on how much you abuse it, it is a not a defacto "going to fail" thing it just happens often enough to be a point of interest, take a flashlight look under the truck for leaks or worn stuff, it's also pretty typical to have to replace shocks around this point also especially if it has air ride.
take some speed bumps and see how it reacts, listen for noises, pop the hood listen to the engine, check all the doors, windows, locks, all the little buttons and gizmo's if it has rear entertainment check all that suff, seat heaters/coolers, turn the heater and ac on up down left/right etc, etc typical stuff. if you find any issue have it addressed BEFORE you sign anything, after you sign they are off the hook.
review the carfax and see where it came from and how much was done or not done to it, more maintenance performed just means less work for you down the road imo.
good luck.

No AutoRide or Magna Ride, just standard shocks with a solid rear axle

 

[Doubeleive]

No AutoRide or Magna Ride, just standard shocks with a solid rear axle

I just noted that because on the previous gen nnbs shocks start wearing out around 85k+
on these k2xx they have been getting reported earlier as low as 45k+ if they are questionable at all I would just replace them with bilstein 5100's or 4600's and probably never have to worry about them again.

 

[trailblazer]

I'm not trying to hijack this thread; I'm also very close to purchasing a very clean '15 Yukon XL SLE (with HD tow) that has 93k miles for $29k. I currently drive a '09 Tahoe LT2 that I also bought with 93k and it now has 166k. It has served me well but with three kids and long road trips between Utah and N. Michigan, I'm getting apprehensive. I have read some comments in other threads about the K2's transmission going to hell at 100k miles and the engine time-bombing at 150k miles. What exactly changed with the torque converters for the 15+ versus the 6L-80E in my NNBS Tahoe? Is the AFM in the 15+ just as dangerous as in the NNBS'? I know GM made some changes through the years (valve cover internal PCV deflector, etc). I actually used HPTuners to disable AFM in my Tahoe the week I acquired it and installed an oil separator kit.