Just Fishing's 09 Tahoe Build thread

[Just Fishing]

And for the grille screen retainer.
For the most part i was able to push the screen out in order to lock it in place.

But for the wire retainer part, this is what i did.


The trick is to not crack the screen through.
a little trial and error for me.
I ended up picking a thicker place in the screen for the wire, since thinner ends broke through way to easily.

One thing i was unsure of, how much space for the wire would i have when the grille inserts are reinstalled.

Answer = plenty of space.


I went back through the lower insert to brace it a little better.

The top screen also helps to block access to the hood release, as i found out earlier how easy it can be opened from the outside of the truck.
Now of course you can still just jab a screw driver through the screen, but it will leave a very obvious mark.

 

[Just Fishing]

and a little image of my trans cooler bypasses.

Front "tow package" bypass


Main radiator bypass.


I couldn't find all of my hose clamps, so i ended up using my "ClampTite" tool

That tool uses wire to create pretty little one time use clamps.
So far i have been very impressed by this tool.

But for most things, i prefer a reusable clamp that's easier to deal with vs having to locate my special little tool.

That said, it's great if i don't want to go to the store to buy hose clamps.
And it should seal a little bit better than a hose clamp, since there is no raised part that could possibly leak (where it might require a second hose clamp otherwise).


IIRC it was either a youtube video, or something on velocity channel that showed me the handiness of it.

Pretty much you can wrap the wire as many times as you want around the hose.

I bought the cheaper "aluminum" bodied one

I wish it had a little case, i keep this tool in a Ziploc bag so i can keep the instructions with the tool.
But It works fine with just a single wrap.

My tool, pen for size reference.



(Found on ebay for about $25, took some hunting before i found one with a price tag i liked)

 

[pwtr02ss]

That's a nifty little tool.

 

[pwtr02ss]

Making any progress? Haven't seen much of you lately...or maybe I've just missed it. Checking in

 

[Just Fishing]

Nah, not doing much on it right now.
Probably in a few weeks I'll pull it back into the garage.

 

[Stonefort]

Are you going to check the thrust bearing or just look for metal in the oil filter?

 

[Just Fishing]

Are you going to check the thrust bearing or just look for metal in the oil filter?

Already done the check for metal and it's there.
And the thrust bearing check, i can see that the crank was being pushed forward.

I also proved that the transmission cooler in the radiator had at least a slight blockage.
Bypassing the coolers, the transmission is already acting better.
I had noticed that my engine braking in the transmission had nearly stopped, bypassed the coolers and it's back.

So the plan is to pull the pan off, roll out the thrust bearing and check the crank surface.
Depending how the crank looks, i might either roll in a new thrust bearing or pulling the engine for a new crank.

Good news is i have been **** about filter changes in order to cut them open to view contents.
If any metal bypassed, it was very little.
And i didn't see any metal at the top of the engine when i had the valve covers off.

Main plan is to see if a new crank bearing lasts.
And hope the transmission isn't damaged.
If it is, then more $$ (yay...)

If the engine comes out again, then i'm going to probably try my hand at pulling the transmission pump for a check/replacement.

Only thing that concerns me is that i have never done a transmission with it on it's side.
On a 4l60, the 2-4 band messes with you.

On the 6l80, i think I'll just need to pull the valve body since it seals directly against the pump.
And that will also allow me to install a boost valve, i have one from Transgo that has a pressure relief built in.
Supposed to prevent drum failure due to over pressure.

 

[Stonefort]

Already done the check for metal and it's there.
And the thrust bearing check, i can see that the crank was being pushed forward.

I also proved that the transmission cooler in the radiator had at least a slight blockage.
Bypassing the coolers, the transmission is already acting better.
I had noticed that my engine braking in the transmission had nearly stopped, bypassed the coolers and it's back.

So the plan is to pull the pan off, roll out the thrust bearing and check the crank surface.
Depending how the crank looks, i might either roll in a new thrust bearing or pulling the engine for a new crank.

Good news is i have been **** about filter changes in order to cut them open to view contents.
If any metal bypassed, it was very little.
And i didn't see any metal at the top of the engine when i had the valve covers off.

Main plan is to see if a new crank bearing lasts.
And hope the transmission isn't damaged.
If it is, then more $$ (yay...)

If the engine comes out again, then i'm going to probably try my hand at pulling the transmission pump for a check/replacement.

Only thing that concerns me is that i have never done a transmission with it on it's side.
On a 4l60, the 2-4 band messes with you.

On the 6l80, i think I'll just need to pull the valve body since it seals directly against the pump.
And that will also allow me to install a boost valve, i have one from Transgo that has a pressure relief built in.
Supposed to prevent drum failure due to over pressure.

Dang I was hoping you got the issue solved.....so you have a new thrust bearing in and it's still making metal?

 

[Just Fishing]

Dang I was hoping you got the issue solved.....so you have a new thrust bearing in and it's still making metal?

Yeah it burned up the new thrust bearing right away.

Then i found that a blocked transmission cooler could be the problem...
That's where i'm at now.

I just need to hope that i didn't damage the crank shaft this time around.

 

[Stonefort]

Yeah it burned up the new thrust bearing right away.

Then i found that a blocked transmission cooler could be the problem...
That's where i'm at now.

I just need to hope that i didn't damage the crank shaft this time around.

Ah ok I see now. I was misreading some of that. Thanks for clearing it up. I hope the crank is fine as well, for a bunch of reasons. But if you can just roll a new bearing in, it would be interesting to see if a blocked trans cooler could wipe a thrust bearing out that quick. Looking forward to the next update, keep it going!