Looking for the AFM delete key!

[lamerem]

Ok brethren, lets go to the church of AFM deletion.

I am kicking around the idea of deleting the AFM. So I know that I can delete the programming through Black Bear, but that doesn't fully delete it correct? I actually need to change out components, correct? Ok, I am a pretty handy, mechanically inclined person so I'm not scared. I know that there are probably other posts about this very topic, but for all intents and purposes I wanted to start a new one. I think I would buy parts over time to get high quality, rather than afford everything now and sacrifice by purchasing subpar quality parts.

Vehicle information:

• 2011 Chevy Tahoe LT
• 4x4
• Vin code: 0
• 105,000 current miles, actually a little less.
• Engine has a slight vibration at idle, definitely noticeable in the cab. This does not cause operational issues ever. Checked the motor mounts and both are in great condition. Transmission shifts as it should with no noticeable issues.
• Truck used only a few times for towing, light weight utility trailer.
• Basically this is my wife's mommy missile and family vacation rig.

So here are the questions I have:

1. What needs to be replaced?
2. What brands are best?
3. Anyone have a shopping list? I do not want to get what I think is everything, only to find I need a backordered lifter tray and the "Hoe" is torn down for 3 weeks. I would also like to hear from those that have done this very task.
4. What was the plan of attack?
5. Did you remove the front clip?
6. Can you perform the entire task with the engine in the truck?
7. If I replace the components to remove the AFM, do I still need to reprogram the computer?
8. What has been learned through trial and error?
9. What is longevity when the components are replaced?
10. Is the truck just as dependable?
11. Is there something else I should do while I am in there, maybe not AFM related?
12. I hear some guys upgrade to a performance cam, is this something that should be done, or is it a waste?
13. Do I need to have anything machined (i.e. heads)?
14. Do you have a preferred vendor for the parts, discount codes?
15. What was the performance/mileage like post operation?
16. What am I forgetting to ask???

This is an open forum, lets talk!

 

[kwOH]

Mommy missile lol

 

[PG01]

To cheap out for now get a range device, turns it off or find a local tuner to just tune it off. As far as actually remove the shit components, many guys have left lifters cam etc in with no probs. Yes technically the lifters can still fail but if they aren’t collapsing because of range/tune you technically should be ok. Vibratio can be dirty tb, cleaning should help, a little seafoam in the oil and gas tank may help also.

 

[domoarigato]

I also looked into this, but ended up getting a diablosport tuner. The range AFM module is around ~$200 and you can find a refurb tuner for not much more. And with a tuner you can do much more than just delete the AFM, you can also adjust the speedo for different rolling diameters of wheels, change when the cooling fans come on... etc etc. It comes with some preset tunes which are nice, but you can also get a custom tune and flash it with the same handheld.

I have also looked into getting a BB tune, but for me I liked the option of being able to flash back to the factory tune / restore it myself should I sell the vehicle or need to have it taken in for programming for whatever reason.

As for mechanically deleting the AFM, there are kits available all over the internet... I believe 90% of the people just run a AFM delete module / get the AFM disabled with a tune as the tahoe demographic doesnt seem to be as DIY as some other vehicles. Not many folks will go through and replace the lifters / cams etc.

If you do mechanically delete the AFM, you must get a tune or else the truck will run in 4 cyl mode indefinitely I believe.

Before doing all that, consider doing some basic tune ups... maybe some injector cleaner etc.

 

[randeez]

So here are the questions I have:

1. What needs to be replaced? what needs to, and what should be replaced are entirely different. for the delete you need a new cam and replace at minimum 8 lifters, "top end" gasket set as you will pulling the heads, water pump, timing cover, head bolts, valley cover etc
2. What brands are best? oem is perfectly fine for everything i wouldnt (didn't) use anything cheaper, upgrade where you want, unless new hardware is necessary for whatever cam you choose
3. Anyone have a shopping list? I do not want to get what I think is everything, only to find I need a backordered lifter tray and the "Hoe" is torn down for 3 weeks. I would also like to hear from those that have done this very task. texas speed and performance, brian tooley, ws6 store all have "dod delete kits" that are pretty comprehensive.
4. What was the plan of attack? ? not sure what you mean
5. Did you remove the front clip? i didnt, i removed the whole engine but I was also putting in a new torque converter
6. Can you perform the entire task with the engine in the truck? With the front clip removed you should be able to, just need room to slide the cam out, and replace timing set
7. If I replace the components to remove the AFM, do I still need to reprogram the computer? yes
8. What has been learned through trial and error? i think this falls under "dont try to reinvent the wheel" it's a pretty simple engine to work on
9. What is longevity when the components are replaced? i would say better than with the dod lifters
10. Is the truck just as dependable? see previous answer
11. Is there something else I should do while I am in there, maybe not AFM related? Really depends on how reliable you feel the engine with 100k is. It would be a tough decision to put time and effort into it just to have something else completely unrelated happen, i'll go more in depth below
12. I hear some guys upgrade to a performance cam, is this something that should be done, or is it a waste? there is a lot of power to be picked up with a cam swap but it snowballs into additional upgrades
13. Do I need to have anything machined (i.e. heads)? Again depends on how comfortable you are with letting it roll, there's machine shops that say anytime you pull a set of heads you should refinish the mating surfaces> which includes the block! at minimum send the heads out to get cleaned and checked for straightness... some machine shops wont even bother to check they'll just mill a few thousandths and call it a day, usually less than $100, but more than likely a machine shop will take a week to complete
14. Do you have a preferred vendor for the parts, discount codes? See #3
15. What was the performance/mileage like post operation? mpg still sucks, performance way up tho
16. What am I forgetting to ask??? I'm sure plenty, time frame? if leaving in the truck you could prob get it done in a weekend, but give yourself a week.

This is an open forum, lets talk!

/\ expand to see your questions answered in red,

My 2c..... at 100k i dont think i would tackle deleting the DOD. 5.3s are cheap as could be, find another... throw it on a stand and build it in the mean time, the delete itself will set you back $1500 after parts, tuning, fluids, tools etc.
In my case with 50k miles, the dealer just replaced the long block 4 months before powertrain warranty ended....with a nearly new engine i didnt see the need to replace the oil pump, timing set, half set of lifters, do any machine work, water pump, and anything else that didn't look brand new in the process. Im placing my bet on it being more reliable with it deleted

 

[swathdiver]

My own plan is to physically remove the AFM/DOD system. BlackBear has turned it off for now.

I would say the engine will be more reliable and mileage can vary depending on what you do. If you put a very mild truck cam in there you'll at the very least keep the same MPG. The tune is likely to increase MPG by itself. You cannot keep the original camshaft without throwing misfire codes at idle, the AFM lobes are different. Your LMG engine in 2011 also has VVT, Variable Valve Timing. If you keep VVT, which is great, you need to select a VVT cam. You can delete VVT and run the Gen III style camshafts.

I'm sticking with all OEM parts or getting the parts from the people who make them for GM, such as the Melling oil pumps and LS7 lifters. I'll probably go with a very small single pattern camshaft from Crane (1449501) to match the one in my truck, just a little bigger. You have a dual pattern camshaft to work with VVT. TSP, Texas Speed and Performance makes VVT cams, I would suggest the smallest one they offer if you go this route.

Am compiling a list but it is nowhere complete yet, my plan is for the spring while still cool out. I am thinking about pulling the motor just so I can go through it without hurting this old and broken body and remove that AFM valve in the oil pan on my 4x4. Mechanics who do this work everyday can knock it out in a couple of hours. Shade tree guys in good shape and organized can probably do it in a day unless you involve a machine shop for anything.

 

[techbiker]

My own plan is to physically remove the AFM/DOD system. BlackBear has turned it off for now.

I would say the engine will be more reliable and mileage can vary depending on what you do. If you put a very mild truck cam in there you'll at the very least keep the same MPG. The tune is likely to increase MPG by itself. You cannot keep the original camshaft without throwing misfire codes at idle, the AFM lobes are different. Your LMG engine in 2011 also has VVT, Variable Valve Timing. If you keep VVT, which is great, you need to select a VVT cam. You can delete VVT and run the Gen III style camshafts.

I'm sticking with all OEM parts or getting the parts from the people who make them for GM, such as the Melling oil pumps and LS7 lifters. I'll probably go with a very small single pattern camshaft from Crane (1449501) to match the one in my truck, just a little bigger. You have a dual pattern camshaft to work with VVT. TSP, Texas Speed and Performance makes VVT cams, I would suggest the smallest one they offer if you go this route.

Am compiling a list but it is nowhere complete yet, my plan is for the spring while still cool out. I am thinking about pulling the motor just so I can go through it without hurting this old and broken body and remove that AFM valve in the oil pan on my 4x4. Mechanics who do this work everyday can knock it out in a couple of hours. Shade tree guys in good shape and organized can probably do it in a day unless you involve a machine shop for anything.

Great points. I am a big believer in VVT. Do you know if experienced tuners have determined where to set the VVT advance/retard points on the 5.3 to optimize performance?

 

[swathdiver]

I am sure that Justin at BlackBear Performance would know. Mine doesn't have VVT so we did not discuss it.

 

[thirdcoast]

Matt;

If you want a quick fix, I have a Range AFM Disabeler PN: RA003 (current model) that I am not going to use as I sold the truck it was on.

Only about 6 months use on unit and it worked well.. I think the truck performed better overall with this plugged in..

If you are interested, It is $100.00 including shipping in lower 48.. email: [email protected]

Thanks,

Thirdcoast

 

[lamerem]

Sent you an email Thirdcoast