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Rocket Man

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Hey Rocket Man . Last i remember no they didn't do a visual inspection on my truck just plugged in to the obd2 port and that was it. When i first took the cats out i had a local chevy guy re-tune the tahoe to keep the infamous code p0420 from coming on. Are you telling me this should be enough to make it pass?
If he deleted the downstream O2 sensors then you will be good to go. Mine passes emissions in Oregon.
 
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donjetman

donjetman

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The main "mod" parts are here, oil tank and cooler. Now I need to figure out where exactly I'm gonna mount them so I can round up the fittings, hose, etc. The tank and filter will probably go where the driver side empty battery tray is. I may go with brass barbed fittings and hose, etc instead on AN.

While I'm at It, I'm replacing: a leaky power steering hose, the (original?)water pump, installing a 180* thermostat, and installing the heater hose with the metal y fitting. I should have done this when I installed the Gruven T fittings back in Dec.
View media item 28217
 

iamdub

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The main "mod" parts are here, oil tank and cooler. Now I need to figure out where exactly I'm gonna mount them so I can round up the fittings, hose, etc. The tank and filter will probably go where the driver side empty battery tray is. I may go with brass barbed fittings and hose, etc instead on AN.

While I'm at It, I'm replacing: a leaky power steering hose, the (original?)water pump, installing a 180* thermostat, and installing the heater hose with the metal y fitting. I should have done this when I installed the Gruven T fittings back in Dec.
View media item 28217

Doesn't this thing sit a lot? How about adding an inline electric oil pump for priming?
 

kbuskill

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The main "mod" parts are here, oil tank and cooler. Now I need to figure out where exactly I'm gonna mount them so I can round up the fittings, hose, etc. The tank and filter will probably go where the driver side empty battery tray is. I may go with brass barbed fittings and hose, etc instead on AN.

While I'm at It, I'm replacing: a leaky power steering hose, the (original?)water pump, installing a 180* thermostat, and installing the heater hose with the metal y fitting. I should have done this when I installed the Gruven T fittings back in Dec.
View media item 28217

Don, have you ever looked at your actual coolant temperature via the OBD2 data?

The reason I ask is because the gauge in the truck will read 210° at operating temperature but the actual temperature according to the Torque Pro app or a Tech2 device will show about 192°.

I am just curious what your actual temperature reading will be after you install the 180° thermostat.

Please keep us posted.
 
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donjetman

donjetman

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Doesn't this thing sit a lot? How about adding an inline electric oil pump for priming?
I make a point of driving it at least one a week, I love driving it. It's the nicest driving vehicle I've ever driven, but then again I don't get out much :joke: I do used oil analysis and if there was a problem it would show up there, and I haven't seen the evidence.

Don, have you ever looked at your actual coolant temperature via the OBD2 data?
No, all I have to go by is the gauge. Your right, it sits on 210*. A couple of times I towed my race trailer partially loaded(6k lbs) 20 miles, and the temp climbed from there. The L92 aluminum block doesn't carry away heat(less dense) like cast iron, so its oil (and coolant) have a tougher job carrying the heat away. The oil is taking more punishment than it would in a cast iron 6.2L.

So I'm doing this stuff 1) because I'm bored; 2) I find it interesting, like doing UOA; 3) to see what happens. Maybe we'll learn something???? Maybe not. :badidea:
 

kbuskill

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I make a point of driving it at least one a week, I love driving it. It's the nicest driving vehicle I've ever driven, but then again I don't get out much :joke: I do used oil analysis and if there was a problem it would show up there, and I haven't seen the evidence.


No, all I have to go by is the gauge. Your right, it sits on 210*. A couple of times I towed my race trailer partially loaded(6k lbs) 20 miles, and the temp climbed from there. The L92 aluminum block doesn't carry away heat(less dense) like cast iron, so its oil (and coolant) have a tougher job carrying the heat away. The oil is taking more punishment than it would in a cast iron 6.2L.

So I'm doing this stuff 1) because I'm bored; 2) I find it interesting, like doing UOA; 3) to see what happens. Maybe we'll learn something???? Maybe not. :badidea:

Well that sucks... I was really hoping you had a way to view the live data so we could see a real world comparison of the 180° thermostat.
 
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donjetman

donjetman

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Well that sucks... I was really hoping you had a way to view the live data so we could see a real world comparison of the 180° thermostat.
I'll be watching: 1) gas mileage; 2) gauge water temp; 3) UOA results.
Remember, I'm still a flip ph owner/operator. I know the day is coming when I'll need to buy a Tech2, and I'm not looking forward to that learning curve.
I hope when I install the Hayden cooler it doesn't leach any lead and skew my nexy UOA. I'll rinse it and the tank with solvent before their installation.
 

kbuskill

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I'll be watching: 1) gas mileage; 2) gauge water temp; 3) UOA results.
Remember, I'm still a flip ph owner/operator. I know the day is coming when I'll need to buy a Tech2, and I'm not looking forward to that learning curve.
I hope when I install the Hayden cooler it doesn't leach any lead and skew my nexy UOA. I'll rinse it and the tank with solvent before their installation.

Perhaps Hayden is a more reputable, read less Chicom, company and you won't have an issue with lead solder like I did.

I am interested to see your next UOA though.
 

Idriveaho

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I’m just going to say this thread is interesting. Getting all scientific and such.
 

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