Need A New Heater Hose Connector

[lumberjack890]

I broke my heater hose connector by accident and need a new one. Anyone know a part number or the size of it?

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Damn! That looks VERY familiar, as I just went through this issue.

Here's my thread on this issue. https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/heater-hose-blew-out.119226/

I replaced both rubber heater hoses including the hose to the coolant reservoir, the rubber overflow hose, both rubber radiator hoses, plus the two plastic 'T's that your photo shows right behind the torn heater hose. As it turned out, that was the correct decision, as all of the hoses were stamped 2007 manufacture dates.

I used Rock Auto to purchase my replacement heater hoses.

I purchased my radiator hoses locally at NAPA. I would have used Rock Auto for these, as well, but I made the decision to replace them too late, after my Rock Auto order had shipped and was about to arrive, and I did not want to delay the completion of this project.

I purchased my plastic 'T's from the GM dealer, as some of the aftermarket 'T's had defect issues (Dorman).

This was a PIA replacement project for me, due to the difficulty in removing the GM "quick disconnect" fittings, but I got it completed.

My recommendation is the you go to Rock Auto (https://www.rockauto.com/), enter your truck's information, and select either GM OEM or AcDelco parts.

If you want to simply replace the torn heater hose with a generic rubber heater hose replacement, I believe that the heater hoses on my truck were 5/8" ID.

 

[swathdiver]

I broke my heater hose connector by accident and need a new one. Anyone know a part number or the size of it?

View attachment 251896

No but you can find out here: https://parts-catalog.acdelco.com/catalog/catalog_search.php

@kbuskill Ken here has worked with a company to make these from metal so you might consider that.

 

[915_Tahoe]

I broke my heater hose connector by accident and need a new one. Anyone know a part number or the size of it?

View attachment 251896

GM#15119175 CONNECTOR, HTR INL HOSE (67.7MM) (STRAIGHT) (WHITE/NEUTRAL) Connector $7.11

GM#15055343 TEE, AUX HTR INL HOSE (NATURAL) (111MM LONG) $33.94

Top gm# is for the one that is broken and the bottom is for the Tee connector if you need it.

 

[lumberjack890]

Damn! That looks VERY familiar, as I just went through this issue.

Here's my thread on this issue. https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/heater-hose-blew-out.119226/

I replaced both rubber heater hoses including the hose to the coolant reservoir, the rubber overflow hose, both rubber radiator hoses, plus the two plastic 'T's that your photo shows right behind the torn heater hose. As it turned out, that was the correct decision, as all of the hoses were stamped 2007 manufacture dates.

I used Rock Auto to purchase my replacement heater hoses.

I purchased my radiator hoses locally at NAPA. I would have used Rock Auto for these, as well, but I made the decision to replace them too late, after my Rock Auto order had shipped and was about to arrive, and I did not want to delay the completion of this project.

I purchased my plastic 'T's from the GM dealer, as some of the aftermarket 'T's had defect issues (Dorman).

This was a PIA replacement project for me, due to the difficulty in removing the GM "quick disconnect" fittings, but I got it completed.

My recommendation is the you go to Rock Auto (https://www.rockauto.com/), enter your truck's information, and select either GM OEM or AcDelco parts.

If you want to simply replace the torn heater hose with a generic rubber heater hose replacement, I believe that the heater hoses on my truck were 5/8" ID.

I got the connector at Autozone (Dorman). Im trying to plug it back in but it wont budge. Do those things come with a locking tab or do they go in just like that?

Dorman Part# 800-409

 

[915_Tahoe]

a tool is needed to properly remove them, but others break them off. install is just done by sliding them on with pressure, not to much but just enough.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

As stated above, once the old quick disconnect fitting is removed, the new quick disconnect fitting should just slip on and lock into place. That is by far the easiest part of the repair.

If getting the old quick disconnect fitting off is your issue, and for most folks it is, I refer you to my referenced discussion thread, where numerous methods for removing the quick disconnect fitting are discussed.